Leaning Tower Accident TR

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matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 13, 2006 - 04:37pm PT
It started with a plan to do some walls in the valley over spring break. I have done several walls and my friend Jeff had never done one. We setteled on Leaning Tower and watched time crawl by until break was upon us. We drove to the valley on Saturday, April 8, arriving there by noon. After stashing our extra food in the Curry boxes we were off to the Bridalveil parking lot.

For the approach Jeff took the rack/ropes and I took the pig. The hike in was wet and there were several times during the second half of the approach that we had to post-hole through snow.


After arriving at the base, Jeff was worked so after dinner he went straight to bed, while I stayed up and watched the stars. Several times that night I was woken up by a ring tailed cat attempting to steal some bagles.


I was up at dawn the next moring anxious to get going. Jeff took the first lead, and it was obvious that he needed more practice before doing a wall.


As the morning went on the skys turned from clear to overcast, solwly getting darker and darker. So the hard decision was made to turn around. Retreating fromthe top of P1 was not too bad. I had to swing a lot but ended up making it into the ledge without a problem. After reversing the 4th class section we headed down the talus.

A few hundred feet below the "good bivi for 4" site I was walking accross a boulder when the pig got off balence. I tried to grab a branch for support but that did not help. My right foot slipped, but my left boot stuck. As I fell down my left leg twisted under me and I heard a horrible cracking sound. OH SH#T! I knew my left leg/ankel was hurt. I quickly laced up my left boot as tight as I could, and took 4 IB's from the first aid kit. The time was around 2:00pm on Sunday April 9.

We left the pig where it lay and dectided to see how far I could get. I was limited to crawling on my hands and knees or shuffeling around on my butt.


The way down took a long time. Every time I bumped my left leg it put me in an exceeding amoun of pain. I did my best to avoid bumping it, but it was sometimes unavoidable.


It was a daunting task to crawl out over huge, moss covered, wet talus blocks. I found that making jokes made the trip go fasted and kept my mind centered. It must have seemed like a silly situation. A freash cripple draging himself towards the parking lot by his fingernails joking about how all the crab walking will do wonders for my mantles. To get more of an idea of the ordeal...

...check out this video. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoID=650233161&n=2&Mytoken=DE5C0CC9-135B-E329-494A158C0768C8466384456


After crossing the log, it was one more short hill and then a flat section to the parking lot. I got some really crazy looks as I crawled out of the woods in obvious pain and covered in dirt with a bunch of climbing gear on. Once in the car Jeff drove to Oakhurst.

The medical clinic there was closed so we continued on to Fresno and ended up at the University Health Center or something like that. Then the waiting began. After checking into the hospital a bit after 6:00, my leg was not examined by a doctor until after 11:00pm. I was finally discharged just after midnight. Here is a crappy scan of my x-ray.


I brok the Fibula in my left leg, just above my ankel. The break was due to the severe twisting motion the bone was subjected to. We spent the night in Fresno, and in the morning headed back into the Valley so Jeff could recover our abandoned gear.

The closer we moved to yosemite the worse the weather looked. It started to rain, then show and then rain again as we dropped to the valley floor. Jeff was not happy about having to hike in the rain to get the same bag that I had the accident with. So we stopped by the mountain shop and recruited come help. Nick to the rescue!!! Nick and Jeff hiked up to get the bags, and I caught a ride to the lodge and hung out with Aaron for the day. Everyone was happy when Nick and Jeff arrived safely.


That called for a round a drinks (mmmmnnnnnn drinks and vicodin.)


We sat aound drinking, telling stories and laughing as dusk approached. Nick decided he would get the next round, but had an unconvential way of doing so.



Ahhhh, the classic Cobra!!!




As darkness set in, Jeff and I drove home to deal with the aftermath. That was Monday night, April 10. It's been a slow week of stumbling around on crutches and doctors appointments. I'm not looking forward to going back to work next week.

I have my Ortho appointment tomorrow and will know more then. So far I have heard that I should have a cast for about 6 weeks after which my bone will be back at 100%, but we'll see about that. Hopefull this will not destroy my palns to head back to Peru this summer.

Well, there you hvae it. I broke my leg and had to crawl out ala Joe Simpson in Touching the Void. Ironically a movie that I had just watched 4 days before leaving on the trip.

Matt
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
Kick ASSSSS™™™™™™ man!

Here's to a speedy one!
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
Well done ... a good retreat is almost as good as a good climb!! Yeah those pigs can drag a fellow down... hope you have a quick and trouble free recovery....
poop*ghost

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
ouch - what a bummer. glad you could self rescue and keep a good attitude.

man, w/ a broken leg I don't think I could muster a smile!
matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
Thanks! Much Appericiated.
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
Way to suck it up and self-rescue. A touron would've been crying for Werner.
lazide

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
Congrats on making it back down and getting all your gear! Nick is one awesome and strong monkey!

Hope you heal fast!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
two thumbs up!!
matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
This was Nick when he learned what happened to me.

spyork

Trad climber
Fremont, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
Sorry to hear about your leg. Must have been tough to drag yourself out.

Steve
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:31pm PT
Good job on the self rescue.
I broke my fibula in the same spot, yes it will heal in that amount of time, but won't be 100% for about 6 months. The cast comes off when the bone has knitted enough to work, but we tend to demand more from our bodies than the average citizen.
Good luck, but be smart about your body, treat it right after an injury or you will regret it for the rest of your life.
Six months now, or a lifetime of a nagging injury, your choice...
matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
I'll take the 6mo now, thank you very much. Ouch DMT, where did that happen? Also one of your pics is not working.

Matt
scuffy b

climber
S Cruz
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
Great job, heal well. Well done report.
Best,
sm
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
Why did you not call for a rescue?

Its 911.

YOSAR needs the work.

Juanito
matty

Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
I probably got out faster myself than a rescue would have. I did not want to use park resources unless I really needed to. Lastly, it was a point of pride.

Matt
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:26pm PT
Broken Leg, they would not have minded.

Jeff
poseur

climber
Yosemite
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:29pm PT
how lame.....thanks for spraying about your epic descent from the first (ha!) pitch...
....now go bail off of something else..maybe you'll break an arm!!!
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
I hear the "point of pride."

I landed a good size air once on a rock 2" under some fresh pow skiing once and got a bad sprain. I did NOT want to ride down in the meat sled, so I skiied down on one leg. I couldn't move once I took my boot off, so I left my ski boot on as a makeshift cast until I was sure it wasn't broke. Leg injuries suck.
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
Hey poseur, rc.com is calling you. Go be an as#@&%e over there. You'll be able to spray STFU nOOb everday, a wet dream, I'm sure.
poseur

climber
Yosemite
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:43pm PT
he..he....make me!! :)
don't twist my gumby friend......
slander and be slandered....


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