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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
El Bucanero
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 5, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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quick question for all the hammer masters here. I noticed my yosemite hammer handle is starting to dry out and could begin to develop splits if not looked after.
how do I prevent this? someone suggested linseed oil, is this any good?
any tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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I have just soaked mine in water for a few days, but I am sure there must be a better way.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Linseed oil should do the job. apply liberally. You can soak the thing in it, bit I would think that to be a bit much. And just like yer favorite boots re-apply every now and then. (not right before going up though!)
Listen to Russ
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Toss the whole thing in a bucket of linseed oil. Remove in exactly 2 days and 46 minutes.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Linseed oil is tricky stuff, as it hardens to a sticky smelly consistency unless you do it at the right temps and with the right amount of thinner, and even then it will be tacky for some time. I reccommend using some of the more modern penetrating Watco Danish oil or Teak oil that has solvents that kick it off harder and faster. Way better, cleaner, and easier.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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If you use Linseed oil, just wipe the oil on, anything that doesn't get absorbed gets wiped off in 20 min.
Chair-loc for the head if it's at all loose. Amazing and good stuff.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Studly's right! Use the Teak oil.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Boulderado
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Couchmaster has it. There are more modern formulations that provide better barriers to moisture penetration than linseed oil. Fo' sho', but if yr head is loose try the Chair-Loc. It is an amazing product. Some colorful contributors to this site might find it useful in tightening their heads....
kg
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doc bs
Social climber
Northwest
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Listen to Studly, he is an antique dealer.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Linseed oil should work. Just be careful and don't start a fire (seriously, google "linseed oil fire"). Tung oil would probably also work well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Benite perhaps?
Dries nicely as a sanding sealer and wood conditioner.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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I use mineral oil from the drugstore. Wipe it on with a rag. Reapply as needed, maybe once a season.
It's non toxic and works well. I use it on all my wood handled smithing hammers.
Vegetable oil also works.
Take a rasp and go over the handle to make it fit your hand better and raise the grain for a better grip.
You can absorb a lot of toxins through your skin,especially if your pores are open from exertion . A constant daily dose of the solvents, driers and preservatives present in commercial wood finishes can't be good for you.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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I use 1/2 linseed oil, 1/2 thinner for utility wood sealer/ finish.
In a quart can with a brush (cut off handle) and rag inside
Brush or wipe onto handles, ladders, window sills, etc. Protects metal parts too.
Remember oil soaked rags are flammable! Hang out to dry.
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Critter
Trad climber
State of Jefferson
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Gropp is absolutely right about fitting the handle to your hand with a big rasp. Rectangle shape is more comfortable and keeps the hammer from spinning more. After that, i usually burn the surface of mine with a welding torch. It will burn out the soft grain and raise the hard grain giving you even more feel. Next steel wool it to remove the char and blackness that will get on your hands.
I personally dont like to use oil. it collects dirt and is a bit messy for a while.
Additionally if its cracked... buy a new handle and remount. If you remount correctly it will be much better than factory. Make sure you buy a straight one with tight vertical grain.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i use a product called feed-n-wax, a mixture of beeswax and orange oil. good for all old wood.
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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