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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Time for a full resole on the TC Pros. I know someone who sent in a brand new pair for one of the Stealth rubbers (C4?) thinking it was better than the stuff that came on the shoe. What rubber has been working well on Granite these days for you?
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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I love Onyx... better that C4 IMO
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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10-4, 4 c4!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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I have 2 pairs, 1 needing a resole, which I'm going to have Barry Chambers do with C4. I recently bought a used pair of the 5.10 Anasazi laceups from a friend and the difference between the rubber compared with the TCs was a lot, IMO. I have so much more confidence with the C4.
Make sure you send them to Barry.
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nature
climber
CO
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I handed my TC Pro's to locker last Sunday. Within two hours they had a new sheet of C4 on them.
I'm so set....
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kiwi
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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I'm a onyxx fan myself. although for slabs some prefer C4... do what you want.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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What's the difference between Onyx and C4? Durability vs. stickiness?
I'm also due for a TC resole... How does the LS vibram compare with the 5.10 rubbers?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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C4 sticks.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Riley's comment got to the heart of my concerns. I'd like to have something stickier than the original rubber on my TC Pros, but I don't know if that will lead to a noticable loss of edging ability. Anybody who has had them resoled have an opinion about that?
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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The spiel on the 5.10 rubbers from their website:
C4 - "The world's hardest rock climbs were made possible with Stealth C4 and it's still the favorite of many top climbers. C4 provides high friction and excellent edging."
Onyxx - "The new standard in high friction rubber, ONYXX has unbeatable hardness for precision edging, stickiness for friction, and exceptional durability."
They both sound exactly the same except Onyxx has the word durability in it...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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i have to resole mine. they've gotten softer over time of course, so i'm thinking about five ten for the resole.
i was surprised by how much i really loved the original rubber for high-density granite. if i were doing micro-edging on sierra granite, i'd stick to the original. for jtree or platt or other rough granitic rock, with plenty of edging and big rounded slobbery bumps and edges, i'd go to c4 or onyx. probably c4.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Onyx is thicker thus more durable and edges better, longer.
C4 is thinner thus more sensitive but tends to "round out" on the edges quicker.
Both are the stickiest on the market.
Onyx is stiffer so more popular with the dime edging, all day cracks and wyde crowd. Which compliments the TC Pro shoes quite well.
Anyone got Barrys number or contact info? Lost my business card when I moved and am in need of his excellent services.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I had mine repaved w/ C4 the day after I used them the first time (on FFA) - slippery suckers, couldn't stand the rubber they came with.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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Sounds like Stealth it is. Was the Onyx rejected for the C4 or was the C4 just chosen due to reputation or recommendation? Anyone look closely at both and make a choice?
Thanks
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I didn't really weigh the two long. Every shoe I own has C4 on it and for me it's a matter of marginally better performance / longevity gains being less important than knowing exactly what to expect when I place my foot somewhere.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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I love the edging capacity of Onyx and Vibram XS.
However, C4 retains critical stickiness and gripping power at lower temperatures. I rarely use any other rubber on technical rock over 10,000 feet in the Tetons where summer morning temperatures can be below freezing even on southern exposures.
(Onyx and XS aren't really that bad in the cold...some of the approach shoe soles are treacherous)
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Tommy just gets a new pair of TC Pros.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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I have a pair of relatively new TCs with XS Edge, and a pair resoled with C4. My anecdotal and subjective observations are:
1 - For me, XS Edge edges better than C4, especially on warmer rock
2 - C4 is a bit stickier, especially on cooler rock.
I can't seem have it all, so I take the pair that best fits the situation.
For me, the most important feature of the TC is the support they give my tired, beat-up aging feet. I can't see using softer rubber on them.
YMMV,
jb
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 10, 2012 - 11:42am PT
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The XS edge works really well in the Gunks for edging and smearing.
I don't like Onyx at all for the Gunks. It edges and smears well, I guess, but more than the other rubbers it seems to blow off unexpectedly, rather than providing a warning of imminent loss of contact with a little creeping sensation.
It has been a long time since I've had a C4 shoe, so I can't comment on that.
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