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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Among the many items in my collection is this signed and unfortunately mounted copy of what I am assuming is the Life magazine article about the FA of the Wall Of The Early Morning Light.
Who is Gizmo? Anyone know?
Also, can anyone confirm the Life magazine source? I assume it is by the page size.
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Feb 20, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
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Steve, I would like to read that article.
Is it available online, or can you possibly post it for reading?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Will do...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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WAREN HARDING FOR PRESIDENT! The second time would have been the charm.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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I've always found it pretty remarkable that Harding was 47 at the time of the ascent. How much older was he than Robbins, Pratt, Frost and those guys of the times?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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Jim- Revisit Batso's "Reflections of a Broken Down Rock Climber" in Ascent.
It wasn't a term of endearment...
Malemute- Thanks for the link and the missing page.
I am having Photobucket trouble at the moment so better text scans soon.
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captain chaos
climber
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Feb 20, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
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Just a guess, but I think it may be Roger Derryberry...
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Feb 20, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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steve, cool article about some great men on a great route. this route has always been one of my favorites. i think robbins removed bolts on the first couple pitches before realizing the route was of very high quality nailing and then stopped removing the bolts. i'm pretty sure steve gerberding put those back in (early 90's ?) and sue and i did the ascent after that, really, really, good. heres a few pics
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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Nice shots Dan!
Derryberry= Gizmo?!?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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To get back to someone upthread regarding the ages of the principal climbers:
Pratt: born 3.5.1939
Robbins: born 2.1935
Frost: ? similar to RR?
Harding: 6.18.1924
Harding was about 11-15 years older than all his compatriots except of course Salathe himself. This age difference was quite significant in how socially everything played out. He was from an entirely different, older generation.
AND, Gizmo was a nickname for President Warren G. Harding. I don't know where that leads us however. Perhaps this was our Warren spoofing a relation to the President.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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The plot thickens...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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It also appears that the message is written by Caldwell, not Harding. Notice the pen color difference and where the sigs are in relationship to the message. I have sent Dean a message this morning to see if he can shed any Early Morning Light" on this.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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Please ask Dean about the origin of the "Wizard" nickname.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 22, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Will do... he has not responded yet... might have to go bug him at the Farmers' Market!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Feb 22, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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How much traffic does WOTEML get these days as a route onto itself? I'm not talking about Dawn Wall or where other routes share pitches.
TIA
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
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That first shot, with the roofs, is spectacular Dan, Thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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Gizmo Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Yager Bump...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 10, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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...and Gizmo?
who he be??
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