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bm
Social climber
pluto
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2012 - 02:46am PT
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I'm new to ST, and couldn't find this topic during a quick search, so my apologies if it's been covered elsewhere (and if it has, please direct me to the original thread).
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Might be my distant Brit heritage but I'm a sucker for a droll one-liner tucked away in a guidebook. [Bruce] Fairley has more than his fair share and his Siwash Rock entry is a mega classic:
1) NW Face of Castle Towers: "Climb snow up the centre of face to bergschrund, which may be outflanked or crossed directly in sporting style."
2) Beach Group : "Named for the unusual ridge-top sand dunes on Beach Mountain. No concession stand reported yet."
3) Siwash Rock: "A sign has been placed on the southwest face threatening climbers with prosecution. The sign is cemented on and makes a good foothold."
But my all-time favourite goes to that wizened wizard of the Coast Mountains, in his 1968 supplement to "A Climber's Guide [1965] to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia."
'The Witch's Tooth': From ledge E of objective (see Mt Tantalus) the route goes up a chimney system on the NE side. Chockstones provide entertainment."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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awesome!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 29, 2012 - 04:09am PT
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I can think of a dozen classic sleepers squirrled away in Roper's green Sierra Totebook guide to the Valley. Stuff like "This route, having been climbed once, will hopefully fade into well-deserved obscurity." Or words to that effect.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 29, 2012 - 04:21am PT
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Verm's Hueco guide: " ... it's dirtying your shorts starting a sit-down problem, then filling them committingly on the off-the-deck moves above ..."
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Jan 29, 2012 - 08:32am PT
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"Old timers like to sandbag young upstarts on this "standard 5.9". Many climbers, especially those who have quickly reviewed the moves on a downward flyby, feel that the route is harder."
--Bill Dockins, author "Bozeman Rock Climbs" 1987 describing "Diesel Driver" in the Gallatin Canyon.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 09:22am PT
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From Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona:
"Serenity Slab, 5.10d. Originally led with a headlamp, this short face/slab is best navigated in daylight."
"Warpath, 5.9-. (Pitch 2) Move left around the corner to the dike and belay when you get tired of the rope drag."
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 29, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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LOL!
A classic Jeff Thomasism from (old) memory and out of print guidebook that I still hear bandied about:
"They say it never rains at Smith Rocks, the surrounding area, however, receives 13 inches a year. LOL
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 29, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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That would be David Lovejoy's Granite Mtn guide, ekat.
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Jan 29, 2012 - 10:13am PT
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I don't know about favorite but I always remember Roper's take on Sun Ribbon.
In "84 a group of about eight of us were camped at Third Lake drinking hard and such deep into the night when we pulled out Roper's High Sierra book. When we got to Temple Crag one of us read the line 'exposed, committing and difficult route' and we thought about it. Well after another hour Adrian said " Let's do it, who wants to go?' Given Roper's enticing opening line, I had to go.
We split up on Sun Ribbon, Moon Goddess and the Swiss Arete. We ended up with a bivy on top, right above the rappel sight at Contact Pass. Most beautiful sunrise in the Sierra for me.
We rolled into camp at about 9 the next morning only to see one of the guys eating my breakfast to which he responded ' I didn't think you guys were coming back'.
Great memories.
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Jan 29, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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On the supertopo for snake dike:
"5.2 fingers over roof"
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Someone will correct me but something from an old pinnacles guide like this:
....then make a 10.b mantel or die.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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From the 79 Wilts Tahquitz guide;
Magical Mystery Tour 5.11
With a name like this it is inappropriate to say more than that the route ascends the difficult buttress between the Sahara Terror and Hoodunett.
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big ears
Trad climber
?
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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From telluride rocks description of Lizard Head peak. "hike to the base, take a picture, turn around and go home"
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:20am PT
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Too loose to trek. A short dirty little climb.
Old JT guide.
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adam d
climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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From Croft's "Good, Great & Awesome," I think about Mithral Dihedral, something like:
You'll be pulling like Sampson and panting like a pervert.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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"Have you ever tried shoveling while hanging from the end of a rope?" A Climber's Guide to Bellefonte Quarry.
"The stability of one's brain is directly proportionate to the strength in one's arms on this climb." Directississima, Shawangunk Rock Climbs, 1972.
"This shift is not for the 9-5 crowd." Tough Shift, 5.10R, The 'Gunks Guide, 1986.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Not sure it is a favorite, but a good one:
"Ker Plunk
This classic route ascends the narrow ramp on the lower left-hand side of the Lichen Wall above the water. It received its name when on the first ascent, Charlie pulled off a loose block and landed in the water."
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funkazzista
climber
Italy
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Place as much sh#t gear as possible (I had 5 equalized pieces and that wouldn't have held a fall). Relax. Make the final easy moves to the anchor.
From MountainProject
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Shermans Hueco Guide:
Seka's Specialty, V2. Long cranks between jugs.
(for the youngsters, Seka was a somewhat famous porn star in the late 70's to early 80's)
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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My current favorite, thanks to extensive use of Kevin McLane's Squamish guide, is "A fine situation indeed." It seems appropriately Brit-like for the OP.
The Art Gran Gunks guide gave a piece of beta which has often been useful over the last 40 years when trying to help a partner: "The crux is the type of thing that only moving up will solve." From the description for Fat Stick.
And while living in Chicago, you didn't have to get past the title of this guide: 50 Short Climbs in the Midwest, by Alan Bagg.
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