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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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There are 3 new routes at Sugarloaf.
To the right of Mortisha and Lurch is a wall that is accessed by a low 5th class slab/crack. This takes you up onto the East Terrace. The routes sit right of Lurch and left of an obscure crack called Hanging Jugs. The left route is Swallow’s Tale 5.8 90 feet 7 bolts with small gear at the bottom and a 1 or 2 camalot at the horizontal crack. FA Jerry Klatt. To it’s right is Monkey Flower 10c, 90 feet, 5 bolts, small to medium gear and a couple of knobs to sling. To its right is a big left facing corner, to crack on face and join MF for last 25feet. As Yet Unnamed 10d, 90 feet , 2 bolt and a full rack. All end at the same chain belay. On the ledge at the base of ST and MF is a chain belay to bring people up and rap back to ground. It gets great morning sun. There is also a route to the right of the approach pitch dubbed Eastern Bloc until someone tells me it’s real name. It now has an anchor on it and is a very good knob climb but hard at the bottom and top 11d/12a.
And…if your still bored Mackerel Sky (see earlier post if a all interested) 11b, 11b? sits longingly in the afternoon light awaiting a second. Start out of West Chimney at about 40-50 feet with bolt on arete above head. Straight up, 5 bolts 11b. Pitch 2 straight up easy to steep knobby headwall. 11b little hight dependant.
ADDENDUM:
If you climb Telesis you can now do an additional second pitch.
The original line that P Crawford put up (as Swamp Thing), went to the big ledge below Grand Illusion. The anchor put in years ago stopped at the hard climbing about 50 feet below the ledge. The last 50 being 5.7 or less.
Instead head up and right from the belay to gain a small ledge and the sharp arete that is formed by the Left face of the Dominion dihedral.
4 bolts go up the sharp arete and directly over a cool overhanging scoop clearly visible from the ground to the main GI ledge. 10+.
Dubbed the "Swamp finish"
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Can you post a photo with routes drawn on it or something? How many honest stars would you give them, per your own judgment?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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the man whom can smear
on overhanging slab?
crimp on fly scat?
what you got?
new routes!
how do you always find your way into controversy?
your paths are grand.
your stature, assured.
i believe that these new routes
might be good upon.
was courage necessary? aiden?
im sure it was present.
convenience always competes into the warrior path.
i know that you are warrior more than me.
i trip always upon my own misunderstandings.
cheers, ya brit.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Thanks Ron. Though ain't it a bitch to be so predictable?
The routes: Swallows Tale and Monkey Flower are actually rather good and 90 feet long I feel sure they were never climbed before.
FA of Monkey Flower was done on 2 bolts with ground fall big runouts on marginal slings because I only had two bolts and really wanted it. My testicles where problematic during the ascent and they caught on several knobs due to their unfeasibly large size. Still, I made the best of it, and other than a couple of embarrassing abrasions to my knackers, all is well.
I think, Mr Anderson, should get up there for a day. You might enjoy yourself despite yourself. At least your spouting would hold a bit more water
Kind Regards
a
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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I do I see a glimmer of interest Mr. Anderson?
Just head up. the 3 are easy to tell from the description. Monkey Flower has not seen a second I suspect. It was a very dangerous route with only 2 bolts and I had always intended it to have 4. It's still a little tricky pro and requires knob slinging and a cool head, but not dangerous. My goal was to put up a great route, which it is. I don't know how hard you climb but if hard 11 you should have a go on Hanging by a Thread.11d.(good topo on hwy50climbing.com page) It ascends 80 feet of virgin rock. It is on west side past man who fell to earth by 50-70 yards and before Hyperspace. all bolts and very demanding, but safe. Chad Salanzer (sp) got the second and confirmed it's quality.
There not all grid bolted extensions and 30 foot wonders by any ones reckoning, but you won't know until you get up there to see and try them
cheers
a
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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I no longer climb at zoos
It is only a zoo on a few routes, due to lack of climbs that regular folks can do. So beginner routes that protect (Scheister, Pony Express and Morticia) turn into zoo.
If that formation is so holly and bolts are so evil, why did they put in a bolt on Scheister? Why is there a bolt ladder to one of the summits?
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jan 10, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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Shiester bolt that I believe Smegma is referring to is third pitch variation where you go straight up and to the right and up to finish anchor bolts (5.8?) instead of tunneling through (original Harding Chimney finish).
Erik
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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Yes, 3rd pitch. Traverse right variation. Older looking bolt (as I remember) on the slab part. Than hike up some crack in a corner and do a BIG air exposed traverse right (5.5 or so) and belay on gear between huge summit rocks, with a sh#t load of rope drag. I have never seen bolts on top of it, heard there are a lot of variations.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 08:43am PT
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jesus aiden you draggin your knutsack
across erratic geologic intrusions?
they prolly look of little gnome heads
stikeen out
with pubic beards
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 11, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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place has turned into a shitpile! i wont climb there.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Don't think anyone will miss you there, Stewie. Actually can all of you people that climb at sugarloaf just stop showing up?
You complain about the place being a zoo etc...Don't you think as more people start climbing and as more people want to get out and climb outside the # of people will rise, at every crag.
When I see people getting out I am kind of happy to see them outside, instead of in-front of their box at home. Although I do hate when people are loud, and create that zoo atmosphere at a crag.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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I think if one still has the understanding of history and desire to challenge self, the loaf should be fine. We can't control the others, we can only control the way we climb. The rock is the same it was back than. Atmosphere at every crag is like atmosphere on a forum. It depends on participants. If you and your friends come out more often and talk to the newer climbers you may actually put some values into them (those values you respect). Not their fault if they don't know any better.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 11, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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oh it's all nonsense. Ron's friends Dano and Paul have bolted face routes at the Loaf, I think Jay Smith has at least one as well. Ron clings to some fake ideal about those guys. They were hungry for FAs, and went out and got them. Someone else does the same and...?
I will say that many of the newer routes on the outlying boulders are pretty scabby, but the ones on the main rock tend to be terrific.
Crowds you say? JUST SAY NO TO GANG ROPING.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
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Than you should climb that guy's routes and compare.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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Ron,
You really need to get up to the main rock of the Loaf. I'm not sure I know of any sportlines up there? Any over bolting to be found is on smaller rocks scattered around and I'm just not that concerned over it. It hardly detracts from the mystique of the main formation and a lot of beginner climbers like them
Why did the old guys not place bolts on Hyperspace, Grand Illusion, etc you ask? Well hello: They're cracks! Find me a bolt I've placed next to an opportunity for half decent natural protection and I'll go and pull it.
As for Trampled under foot: It’s a 2 star route at best not a masterpiece, and doesn’t need another bolt if you know how to place gear.
As for Tapestry: Long before I ever put up Crushed Velvet Blue Velvet went in and added 3 bolts to the start of Tapesty. My route shares 1 bolt and added none.
The thing is Ron, time changes everything. We see the past in a rosy glow of the “good old days”. You know what, THE GOLDEN AGE IS NOW ! And when it stops being for me, it will be for my kids or the next generation of new climbers.
I climb at Sugarloaf almost always during the week. Most days we are alone all day. Just the rock, the sun and the peregrines. It’s a phenomenally beautiful place filled with hard, thin testpieces that get a few of accents a year at most. Birdman, Ghost in the Machine, Cry Mary, Sugar Daddy. They never get easy, and now you can add Slippy Liam, Hanging by a thread, Monkey Flower and Mackerel Sky to that list.
There are no hordes, other than occasional groups of a few that want to TR Pony Express or Mortica. The place is wide open to have the same incredible experience of dicing your way up a committing heady route, except now there are more routes to have that experience. The vast majority of climbers I continue to meet, old or new, are good people and good stewards of the environment. I’m glad to see them up there with their friends and families instead of another round of Xbox.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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You guys can have your bolt wars, but people like me will be there just for pure joy of the place. I believe all could be happy in such a beautiful place!
Still don't understand why did they bolt morticia years ago and care about bolts on new routes today. Seems like the seed was planted long ago.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jan 11, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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Smegma's descriptions hardly sound like bolt ladders.
Another thing to take into consideration concerning the 'Loaf.... It's the closest decent granite crag to the largest concentration of climbers in probably the entire world. And the climbing is incredible.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 11, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Yeah, I'd say the routes of Crawford and Osman... the ones from the 80s, are pretty similar in character to the ones from the 90s, and the ones from the 00s. Crawford has some new hard thing on the Bun, you should let him know how you feel.
You keep harping on Tapestry. What a waste of good rock. The neighboring routes are both quite good.
No bolts on hyperspace or the Illusion? Is that an argument? Maybe huff less of that embalming fluid.
I realize you guys were way rad and did your way rad thing back when it was way rad. Make room for some other people to do their thing, because these posts of yours about the loaf really just make you look old and in the way.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 11, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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So then... you just want to complain about new routes without the ability or inclination to try them? Ok then.
You have a legitimate beef about tapestry... but that ship sailed over a decade ago.
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