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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 14, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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O.K.--It's that time of year, sitting here watching it snow and feeling the walls closing in around me. So...in order to escape the Winter blahs, I make myself lists. And I bet YOU DO TOO!
If you've been climbing for any length of time, there always seems to be one climb in particular, or an area in particular with a "hit list" of climbs you really become nearly obsessed with...
So...'fess up and post your most wanted climb, or list of climbs in a particular area of the country, or the world in general.
My focus is probably quite different from most who post here, since I no longer aspire to doing huge multipitch, multiday epics. I don't ever care to bivouac again if I can avoid the experience. And I have an aversion to "poop tubes" on general principles.
Ever since I experienced what BITD we thought were "real climbs" in Europe, and the Dolomites in particular, I've wanted to return and complete a few of the climbs I was unable to work in, due to my "employer's demands on my time." My "employer" was the U.S. Army, in Mannheim, Germany, and I was pretty limited in my access to the mountains as a result.
Unfortunately, in the intervening time, I managed to get old. :(
My goals remain, however: My Number One Climb: the Torre Venezia in the Southern spur of the Civetta Group, and realistically by any of the 3 fine routes available. The Direct South Face by the Tissi route (15 pitches, 1600 feet, UIAA Grade VI-), or the S.E. Corner by the Andrich-Fae (9 pitches, 1000 feet, UIAA Grade V+). My Number Two: Pala di San Martino, by the famous Gran Pilastro (20 pitches, 2000 feet,UIAA Grade IV-); my Number Three: the Cima Piccola, "Gelbe kante," or Yellow Edge (14 pitches, 1200 feet, UIAA Grade VI-).
I have some goals here in the good 'ol U.S.A, but that's another story...
Your turn!
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Bobert
Trad climber
boulder, Colorado
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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I've wanted to do the Tissi ever since I saw photos of it in the early sixties. The Gran Pilastro sounds like a lot of fun too. Already done the Yellow Edge a couple times but could be talked into doing it again. I'd add The Campanille(sp?) Basso. How about next summer?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 11:13pm PT
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Bob-
I might be able to get back in good enough shape for next Summer...Yeah!
Rodger
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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At this point any climb will be an awesome one. lynne
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Mister_Roborto
Trad climber
Queensland
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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North Ridge of Latok - I'm a big dreamer, it'd take less sleep and more work
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Naked edge, this summer. Brass Nuts, how about a RTNE?
Prod.
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nature
climber
Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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something on Half Dome. Something NTB. Maybe psychadelic shack or some other moderate (that hasn't seen a repeat ;)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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Valhalla and Pink Rhoid, Suicide. This Spring.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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Sunkist then Reticent.
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mwatsonphoto
Trad climber
los angeles, ca
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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The Vampire on Tahquitz and Positive Vibrations & Sun Spot Dihederal on the Hulk. Got to tick off Dark Star this summer!
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Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Right now I'd be tickled pink to lead B3.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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Positive Vibrations. I'm sure I could be hauled up it at this point, but I think I have to raise my game some more to give it justice. Next August would be perfect, but it will take some build-up, which is becoming possible for empty-nest-ish reasons. Anyone interested, or will I have to free solo?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 14, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
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Astroman.
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Dec 15, 2011 - 12:27am PT
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Vedauwoo, Holdout formation, Arch Stanton #4 in this photo would be a cool one to pull off. I have made it to the end of the arch but no further. Under cling moves transition to thin face. (very tricky) Arrow shows crux.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 15, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Fun winter time thread Roger, good idea. Being locked in cubeland 45 hours a week, I have more time to think about climbing than actual climbing, but there's always a list... Original Route on Rainbow Wall is at the top, not sure I can get fit enough to do it justice, but it's a good goal (I'll probably need a rope gun :-). Would also like to do 5 Castle Valley towers in a day for the Jane Fonda full body workout...
Prod, I can't figure out the acronym - help me out, I'm brain dead...
Hankster, good call on Fiesta de los Biceps. Remember the old poster of that guy soloing the thing way up high? Killer shot... Here's one I found on Google, but not the one I remember.
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 15, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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stella
climber
cali
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Dec 15, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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Keeping it close to home....Panic In Detroit
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 15, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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The Poseidon Adventure
Palisade Head, Minnesota
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Dec 15, 2011 - 01:16am PT
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Plane tickets secured, here I come Red Dihedral! My ambitions are not as grand as some, and I'm already working towards that. It will be in one day, and I'm hoping not to be staggering out hours after dark.....
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