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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 19, 2006 - 01:15am PT
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I hate shopping for a new pair of shoes... why don't they just make the same ones forever? And it just gets worse with age; my left foot is about 1/2 size larger than my right foot (anyone have the opposite problem and want to talk about splitting two pairs? I just can't do the swap in the store, the guilt would be too much).
I went up to Marmot today in Berkeley to try the Acopas. The size 10 acopausa dot com /Shoes/aztec.htmlAztec is almost a good fit on my left foot, but the right foot is pretty loose. It seems the toe box is big, my toes were roaming around... the right seems better at a size 9 1/2 BUT my toes are sort of knuckled up. This would not be comfortable on a long climb, which is why I'd get the Aztecs. Conclusion: Acopa Aztec's aren't a good match to my foot shape.
I also tried on the acopausa dot com /Shoes/chameleon.htmlChameleon, which was probably OK in size 10 for both feet and aggressive on the left, but I felt as if the right shoe might eventually blow out and become a sloppy fit.
I'm not interested in buying a pair of shoes that don't fit well, so I didn't get these. Still looking though. I'll just have to keep my 5.10 Newtons going for a while.
Anyone know about the Acopas?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Mar 19, 2006 - 01:42am PT
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Hi Ed:
I'm climbing in the Acopa B3s right now, but only for a few weeks. I am off for a week in Josh for a little more extensive, uh, testing.
The thing that was striking to me about the Acopa was the out-of-the box fit...for an aggressive "Scrunchy toe" shoe, this thing was comfortable, but could still squeeze every drop of blood out of my feet. (Not necessary, of course, its just the way I like it.)
However, because they are unlined leather I am concerned that the toe box is going to stretch too much. I have been wearing synthetic shoes for a few years up until now. Like you, I have one foot(right) a half size smaller. Its also my dominant foot and I worry that this shoe will stretch too much to remain precise.
I'll say I am pretty optomistic on the rubber, too. Equal to 5.10 I think, time in Yos will help me know if its better, but its raining here.
I hope this helps, Ed, and I hope you find a great shoe soon!
-Kate.
(FWIW - I'm not a super-great free climber, so know that my shoe commentary has to come with the grain of salt. I think you have to be pretty darn good to know good from great in shoes.)
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:56am PT
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Ed - Climbing shoes suck if they don't fit. Keep trying as many shoes as you can to find the right fit. Remember that all shoes adapt to you eventually...sometimes it;s worth waiting for the 'stretch', sometimes it's not...bust me an email - I'll give you the 'scoop'.
cheers, jb
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mike hartley
climber
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Mar 19, 2006 - 11:13am PT
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Ed et al.
I too have been looking endlessly for a good fitting shoe without luck - specifically an all-day comfortable one. Any of you ever use the La Sportiva Rock Jock? I seem to have read once in a mag about it being comfy and still performing pretty well.
Thanks - Mike
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 19, 2006 - 11:25am PT
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I like Hold2please have feet 1/2 size different, with my right being smaller than the left. So I get a great fit for my left, but my right is washy.
So, I'm looking for my polar opposite, in size 40 1/2 please (my perfect left foot size, my right is 40).
Years ago, when there was only one shoe that climbers wore (like Mork), Marrmot in Bezerkeley would let you take any right and left that you wanted. They figured it'd all come out in the wash. We're not so lucky now....
PS. Hey John! I'm climbing Acopa B3s right now too, any chance you can fix me up?
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:22pm PT
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Ed,
What are those sizes in Euro? I've been wearing 41 left and 42 right in the Mythos. And what sort of shoes are those? I've never tried them.
Anybody want to try and push the shoe companies towards selling shoes individually instead of in pairs? A lot of people would buy mismatched sizes.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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I've heard that one company, either Madrock or Evolv, will sell mismatched pairs. Anybody know for sure?
-Kate.
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Mar 19, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
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Evolv, I think. But they tack on a fair size surcharge to do it.
I would rather have a single shoe in a box. This would also help because sometimes I have one trashed shoe while the other is still ok.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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We'll (Acopa) sell you "mismatched pairs" - not a problem. Also, if you have any orthopedic problems we can try to help out as well. cheers, jb
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Mar 19, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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Love my old Boreal Aces... Best damn shoe for me!
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Ouch!
climber
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Mar 19, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2006 - 11:48pm PT
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thanks Ouch! my legs aren't that long...
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Ouch!
climber
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Mar 19, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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LOL! My feet don't match either. One size 15 EEE, the other 16D.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Mar 20, 2006 - 11:48am PT
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"I too have been looking endlessly for a good fitting shoe without luck - specifically an all-day comfortable one. Any of you ever use the La Sportiva Rock Jock? I seem to have read once in a mag about it being comfy and still performing pretty well."
I picked up the Rock Jock on clearance (mountain gear was selling some sizes for around $50). I've TR a pitch or two in them and that is about it.
I'm used to Mythos and by comparison the Rock Jock is very stiff/clunky. Im not used to this style of shoe, but I picked it up thinking it might be a good all day shoe for fifth class Sierra traverses or a high tech approach/descent shoe in Yosemite. I wouldn't go as far to say it performs well, but it might be different if I climbed in board lasted shoes.
I wear mismatched sizes also. I never had a problem switching shoes in boxes at REI until they moved the boxes to the back (too many people like me), but I wouldn't do it at the small mom and pop stores. However, I always rationalized my actions with the thought that if enough people switched shoes out, maybe some pressure would go back up the line to get shoes companies to offer mismatched sizes.
Evolve might charge a hefty surcharge, but that is a lot cheaper than buying two pairs (which is what I do now).
If Acopa will ship mismatched sizes, might have to make it down to try some on.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 20, 2006 - 11:55am PT
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Acopa will "make" them for you at no extra charge - we actually make a "pair" as opposed to "grabbing" two different sizes out of two different boxes (non-matching).
It takes 3-4 weeks to get your "pair". Cheers, jb
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Mar 20, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
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Ed,
Thanks for your integrity in the retail shop!
I remember a girl in 1978, going back and forth on just her right foot, 38's... 39's, we later found the left one in the dressing room, she had stuck the right one in her purse.
A larger left foot is a general trend for right handed people.
As is a stronger left leg. The biomechanical theory is that as we reach with the right, we push or counter with the left.
Inverse is marginally true as left handers tend to be more ambidextrous.
Find a left hander with the same Climbing ability, or take Bachar up on his offer.
Ed (Bannister)
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Mar 20, 2006 - 12:13pm PT
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Wow John. That's the sh#t right there. My feet are only about a quarter inch different in length, so I always just suck it up, but I'm thinking, if I don't have to do that on my next pair, I won't.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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Acopa came through! I received today a pair of Aztecs and a pair of Chameleons made to order, size 10 on the left, and 9.5 on the right... had them in the gym tonight and so far so good....
...now to take them out on the normal destructo circuit which is my normal climbing list...
thanks to John and Steve for their attention to my shoe problem.
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TimM
Trad climber
somewhere on the Sierra Eastside
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Jul 14, 2006 - 10:30am PT
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k-man : I think that I may be your polar opposite. I would like a 40 on my left foot and 40 1/2 on my right ... at least when using La Sportiva sizing. I've never tried on Acopas so I don't know if these sizes would carry over to that brand.
I'm in Mammoth ... maybe bachar can fix me up with a trial pair ;-)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 14, 2006 - 10:41am PT
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Evolv will sell you shoes in 2 different sizes per pair (although there might be a bit of an extra fee). They will also customize them to your specs if you wish (i.e. extra rubber for crack climbing, covering up a bunion, etc.)
I had a pair of their lace ups that didn't fit, but the person that I gave them to is still using them after two years of active climbing.
I've got a pair of their slip-on slippers (a la Moccassym), and they are just as good.
Edit....Whoops...I didn't realize this was a resurected thread. Glad you found some shoes that are working for you.
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