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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 3, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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So Gene got me thinking on a different thread to post this, and since I know there now a lot of the old school generation reading this forum, and that Tom would never get online, nor toot his own horn, maybe I should...
Not sure how many people on here know Tom. Tom is a climber from Eugene, Oregon who's most notable ascent(to the average climber on this site) was the first solo of The Nose, second of El Cap in 1969, just after Robbins first solo of The Muir. I've heard all about Robbins for years, but never hear a peep about Tom. That's not all hes done though, if you climb in Oregon, or climbed around Yosemite when he was there then you might have an idea.
Unfortunately I was not even alive back then and did not even start climbing until Tom had nearly 40 years under his belt. Luckily I've been able to become friends with Tom over the past few years, and have gotten to hear a lot of cool stories from him. He was good friends with Chuck Pratt and has quite a few good tales involving the two of them. Tom's 63 now and spends most of his time logging his 650 acres all by him self. Occasionally I can get him out climbing though, when ever I do I feel pretty lucky. So anyways this threads for Tom! Who knows him? Got any stories? Spill em here!
Tom Bauman, Gary Kirk & Jeff Thomas - September 2010
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Met Tom in the Valley and a few other times. Always impressed with his ability and personality. No ego, no bluster- he seemed to climb for himself and that's probably why he's still getting it done be it logging or climbing or just being someone fun to be with.
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Gene
climber
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Thanks, Jack.
I've heard Tom's name but know nothing about him. I hope this thread has legs. What a bold climb for 1969!
Based on the picture above and on the other thread, it looks like TB could solo that thing right now.
g
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buckie
Trad climber
Oregon
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A Humble Oregon Legend. Thats why nobody outside of Oregon old school mixed climbers has never heard of him. Tons of FA's in the Cascades.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Come on, more people on here have to know this guy... Bump for an Oregon badass!
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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I know my buddy Tyler has a special place in his heart for Tom. Tom has been a major influence in his life, most specifically teaching him that just about any climb can be done ground up and off of hooks. The bold routes he has put up in the menagerie are legendary. Cheers to a guy who probably doesn't even know the taco exists.
Bryan
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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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Yeah come'on! No one knows Tom around here?
Thanks Bryan!
Cheers
Tyler
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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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Thanks Bruce,
I think Tom guided for Exum or one of those outfits around that time. Also yes, Tom is good friends with Jack still. I guess Jack has had some health/shoulder issues and is not climbing anymore really.
Cheers
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Tom is well known for the number of things he has done in Oregon for sure.
Another one of those names I was in awe of as a pup coming up at Smith Rocks and the Cascades.
Glad he's still pulling down. GO TOM!!
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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I had the good fortune to climb in the Valley with both Tom and his brother Bob in the spring of 1969. Very good climbers. From cryptic diary entries, it appears that Tom and I did the Braille Book in a patch of stormy weather; the next day's entry notes that Bob and I went to do "Galen's Route," but were rained out. (Whatever Galen's Route might have been ...). However, that May Bob and I climbed and tricked our way up the Lost Arrow Direct, making, we believed, the second ascent. My verdict was "pretty good, few really enjoyable pitches, mostly hard. Superb ledge 2nd Error."
I tried to persuade either Tom or Bob to accompany me to the Alps that summer, but it did not work out. Would have been great with either of them.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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Very cool Chris Jones, thanks for chiming in!
Man I wish I had some more pictures of Tom to post but the only ones I can seem to find are him sitting in the exact same spot a year apart! Will keep looking.
Cheers
Tyler
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Gene
climber
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Tyler,
Do you have - or can get - any details about Tom's Nose solo? How long? His belay - Jumars? Motivation to do it? Pics?
I know Tom is much more than the Nose gig, but when I heard about it BITD, it blew up my mind.
g
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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I will have to ask him more about it! I know that Charlie Porter asked if he needed a partner and Tom turned him down because was pretty intent on doing it solo. My guess was a clove hitch, and I do think it was pretty quick, maybe only three days. I also think he met his first wife, Elaine Mathews on this climb, as he left ropes fixed for her and her male partner as she was making the first female ascent, and there was a storm approaching or happening.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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On a side note, does any one remember Wayne Arrington from Oregon? He also was of the same caliber of Tom, they teamed up for a brief period of time and created some of Oregon's hardest routes. Unfortunately they stopped getting along as they surely could have put up some bad ass shit! But Wayne also made an early solo of El Cap, probably one of the first 10. But he soloed the Muir and refused a rescue during a storm. Wayne also is still alive and well, he just retired from 40 years as a helicopter pilot and moved to the Ukraine.
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MH2
climber
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Excellent thread already.
I know that name and hope the details will resurface.
An older Oregon climber came up to a gym comp in Vancouver in the early 90s. He was strong and selected classical music to climb to in the finals. Bit of a contrast to the Beastie Boys, etc.
(In the meantime, nice to see that Jeff Thomas is still around. I climbed with him at the Gunks a hundred years ago and remember that well.)
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Hey MH2,
That wasn't Tom in any competition. Love the classical music though. Tom never really climbed much harder than a few low end 5.12s, but what he could climb... well that's a different story.
Jeff Thomas is now the head of the historical section of the Mazama's in Portland. He destroyed his body owning his own tree service, but still gets out and climbs occasionally. We where working on the FA's earlier this year, and I know hes eager to get back.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, always a great idea to appreciate someone...
thanks for the share, or i'd not know who he is...
:)
here's to appreciating tom and all the inspriration that he's sent your way, and all just by: being him, :)
nice thread...
:)
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Conrad
climber
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Tom Bauman and Jack Lewis did the first ascent of the Eye Tooth off of the Coffee Glacier in 1988.
Jack's account in the AAJ:
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1989/lewis_eyetooth1989_90-93.pdf#search="eye tooth alaska bauman lewis"
In 89 I was an understudy to Mugs and we had a shot at the Ghost Wall. I think he might have been the competition listed in the article. We did not have any luck with the weather - it stormed for two weeks and we climbed in less than ideal conditions. We sat in a ledge for week listening to NPR and the unfolding events of the Valdez oil spill.
The pitch with the two bolts mentioned in Jack's article in rugby conditions. (I guess quick draws were not around.)
There is a back story to the crystal that I heard from Mugs. Perhaps one of these two men would fill in the story. Is it true?
Maybe one of these days I'll meet Tom and Jack, perhaps in some obscure location. Till then they are legend and hats off to the trails they blazed.
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CaNewt
Mountain climber
Davis, CA
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When I climbed the Nose with John Howard I lead the Stove legs pendulum, then climbed up the crack. I belayed on a bolt about 3 feet out from the crack. Thinking it was just one bolt I backed it up with a 2" inch bong driven with many very hard blows. I hauled and John cleaned the pitch to about 5 feet below me. It was a bit of a surprise when the bolt pop out and I and the haul bag dropped about 5 feet coming to a stop even with John. I suggested to John that he get something else in.
When I later mentioned this incident to Tom Baumann he noted that the bolt started to come out on him also so he had hit it back in. I don't know the moral here. Like really back up your belays. Or, don't redrive very old 1/4 inch bolts!
It was fun later climbing the Nisqually Icefall on Rainier with both John Howard and Tom.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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that pic is bridwell, not tom,
wtf, over?
what a rip off thread this is.
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