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Shiho
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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So I hear that the top 4 bolts are gone from the Ear pitch. Now I am wondering if a #6 Camalot fits in the crack. A friend of mine who did the route in May tells me no, but several other people said yes. Any thoughts?? Has anyone done the route recently? Are the bolts still missing? Thanks in advance!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Werner sez:
Go to the bottom, climb up til you find the answer to the question, then you will know.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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^^^ that's funny I was going to post something quite similar ^^^
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I did it about 12 years ago and I remember a fixed pin in a horizontal crack just to the right of the ear but don't remember bolts.
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Shiho
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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I think the story goes something like there used to be pins or drilled angles and someone replaced them with bolts. Then, someone else wasn't happy with the bolts so those bolts were removed... My friend tells me the route is now R rated (he climbed it in May this year). I'm wondering if I bring a #6 Camalot, it could be climbed at PG-13, not R.
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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That is incredibly freaking lame someone took it upon themselves to remove fixed gear placed by the first ascentionist (Ed Webster no less) 30+ years ago. The ear is straight up hard, gear or no gear and the number of folks willing to pull it off in a boltless state is going to by very, very tiny.
I don't think a #6 is going to fit, best to wait a couple months until someone more reasonable puts the bolts back in. That is the last climb there should be a chopping war on, it is just way to perfect.
Whomevers panties are wadded that tight should spend their time cleaning up the old 1960's bolt mess on the Pale Fire.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Last time I did it was with the nightmare relic 'bolts' in maybe '03. We had a six but it only protected a bit as I recall. Too small to lace it up.thI clipped the fixed pieces that were there, for laughs, It was definitely a no fall situation. Maybe borrow something bigger, maybe a bro? Mike would know where to round one up.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I first did Moses in '81, and then did the FSA of the Beckey. Shortly afterward I went climbing with Ed in NH.
At the time he asked me to rebolt the Ear, but when I finally did Primrose in '86 (after bagging the FAS of the Thracian Mare with all the requisite bolting gear) my partners were grab and go euros and we went car to car in under 7 hours without even a water bottle.
It was fun, but I prefer to be a bit more thorough and also spend a little time watching the cloud shadows dance across the canyon.
I think Ed should have gone back to do it, but I sort of doubt it was deliberately stripped as opposed to mank just falling out.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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