Needles closure information with map

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Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 24, 2011 - 08:52pm PT

My bud Trebe, who maintains a home at Ponderosa was kind enough to provide the following photos of the signage at the Needles road gate.

With that STOP sign it looks like a long term deal. And closing access (at least technically) from 22S82 up to Voodoo, Warlock South Face etc. is total overkill.

Interestingly the sign #2 states that the order is effective from 8/1 - 8/12. Yet the gate remains locked.

pvalchev

Social climber

Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB

Aug 25, 2011 - 02:58pm PT

Thanks for the update, Kris. Do you know if there is a number we can call for more up to date information?

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2011 - 03:16pm PT

You can call the Western Divide Ranger District:

32588 Highway 190
Springville, CA 93265
559-539-2607 ext 0

I have heard from a local that the closure area will be reduced to a radius of 1/8th mile around Magician Summit which will open much of the area to approach from the lower Lloyd Meadow Road. This is not in effect at this time, I'll post it if it happens.

It will be great if Voodoo is legally accessible this fall.

splitclimber

climber

Sonoma County

Aug 25, 2011 - 07:34pm PT

I hope it is accessable next weekend. :)

thx for the info Kris

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Aug 25, 2011 - 08:18pm PT

A guess they're worried about that debris atop Magician tumbling a good mile or so and clocking someone over on Voodoo. Seems reasonable.

Seriously though, maybe since they're probably going to chopper that crud out, they want a big radius, just in case.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2011 - 08:28pm PT

Given that they have planted a rather permanent STOP sign in front of the gate, we can assume the chopper is being used the men in and out and the junk out.

Still no word on a reduction of the closure area.

I'll be up there for a few days next week. If I learn anything I'll post it up here.

rincon

Trad climber

SoCal

Aug 25, 2011 - 09:10pm PT

My take on the closure is: Access from lower road is open, and all formations EXCEPT The Magician are open for climbing.

Sign #1 says:

The closure area includes the formation popular for rockclimbers known as "The Magician"...

And according to sign #2, you can't be on the Needles road, or trail.

So that means, it's ok to access from below, and only The magician is closed.

The closure area map shows the closure going all the way to Voodoo Dome, but that's not what the wordage says. Ignore the map :)

Seems reasonable.

LOL!

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2011 - 01:32pm PT

This from my bud at Ponderosa:

Kristian,

Needles Road is now open with a restricted area of ¼ mile around the lookout.

The ordered was signed yesterday and none of the local FS had a clue it was being opened.

The closed sign remains on the lower road but that should change tomorrow.

Trebe

The new sign:

So now approaching from the lower road is legal. Using the standard traverse under the north side of the old lookout location is well inside of the 1/4 mile radius however.

I have no idea as to enforcement of this perimeter. I would certainly stay off of The Magician.

I would still recommend calling the number upthread before planning a trip as this seems to be changing on a day to day basis.

Jordan Pk webcam #3shows the smoke from the Lion Wilderness Fire is lightening up too.

The camera has a line of sight from the west to the old lookout location, on the hilltop right of center below the horizon.

gonzo chemist

climber

Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater

Aug 26, 2011 - 03:02pm PT

Thanks for the update. Bummer its still closed. I've spent 6 years waiting for the chance to spend a solid couple weeks climbing there (instead of the sporadic weekend trips). And now that I finally have all the time in the world, The Needles are closed :-(

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Aug 26, 2011 - 03:20pm PT

Gonzo, it sounds like if you're willing to stay well downhill of the normal Magician approach, you probably could approach that way. The current trail climbs up out of a valley up some switchbacks to the start of the Magician stairs, where the climber's trail breaks off and traverses some slabs below the summit of Magician. If you started traversing over before climbing up those switchbacks you might be OK. It'd be a pain but, to be honest, I can't imagine it being any worse then hiking up the trail from Voodoo. If not, there's great stuff on Dome Rock, Voodoo, and Hermit Spire.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2011 - 07:23pm PT

The current state of affairs as of 8/26/11:

Gate open.

Closure notice.

So technically the standard approach route bypassing the tower around the N side of Magician on slabs remains closed. A 1/4 mile radius, if it is enforced, would close the trail somewhere shortly before the first saddle, before the switchbacks up to the tower stairs.

I think a traverse around the N side from the saddle would be an epic. Lots of rock slabs and steep terrain down there. A better bet might be to do the approach for Black Magic, cross the toe of the Magician down there and ascend the Magician Djin notch. Of course this is technically in the 1/4 mile radius so it depends again on the level of enforcement.

I've done South Face of the Warlock twice from the lower road. That is not too bad, but climbing up on Sorceror etc from below is for strong hikers.

I'm off climbing for a couple days now but will call the Ranger District on Monday and see what I can suss out.

Jackalak

Trad climber

pasadena

Sep 1, 2011 - 09:51pm PT

If anyone tries a legal upper approach let me know how that works out. I'd like to be there on the 16th or 17th.
thanks!

luquitos

Trad climber

santa cruz, ca

Sep 3, 2011 - 05:51pm PT

Yo, Also interested if anyone is going out there, how the approach is if going around the 1/4 mile closure or if it is even being enforced?

Radish

Trad climber

SeKi, California

Sep 3, 2011 - 06:01pm PT

It should be time to be open now!!

splitclimber

climber

Sonoma County

Sep 6, 2011 - 05:36pm PT

we were told, second hand from climbers and a FS seasonal employee, that they are allowing access to the lookout stairs. so you can hike out to the other formations beyond the magician.

several climbers out there on Monday and does not appear that they are enforcing the 1/4 mile closure, just the area around and below the lookout.

No one was climbing ON the magician.

double check for yourself.:)