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Dirk
climber
Curry Village
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 27, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
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Anyone have any beta for making one? Buckle or knot, kind of material? Because sometimes a harness is just too much, and I think whipping onto a bowline on a coil sucks.
P.S. I'm serious.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 27, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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1" tubular webbing- in swami belt style
HUGE inspiration to climb harder, rather than fall.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 27, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
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1"...ouch!
Two inch, three wraps, water knot. Great for going light on backcountry, easy 5th class, terrain.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 27, 2006 - 07:20pm PT
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That is a Swiss Seat or a Studabaker Wrap...do people pay money for that?!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 07:38pm PT
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Dirk,
2" tubular, all the way baby, with 2 or 3 wraps and plenty of tail coming out of the water knot.
Still the best for Off Width.
JayBro, got my back on that O-Dub bit?
Bachar, not the troll, but the real JB (heh), showed us a 2" tube swami w/just one wrap. It had 3/8" foam inserted. I think that set up would be hard to keep snug...
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Feb 27, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
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i just use my harness w/out the leg loops
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Medric Magann
Ice climber
Billings, Montana
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Feb 27, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
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Motivation not to fall? You bet your sweet ass it is. I took a way whipper on Devils Tower with a swami once. Not something I want to do again. Definitely use 2 inch.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 09:57pm PT
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Some thoughts,
We did loads of routes in swamis in the pleistocene.
Hmmm, all my big falls where in a Whillans, before I switched to a swami and stopped falling off. That bit of conviction fit the no falls lead thing as well as a lot of self knowledge. I must have taken wippers in my swami...
I have heard tale of broken ribs from real falls in a swami, but I have heard none first hand. You may want to take that claim into consideration.
Keep it snug!
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Feb 27, 2006 - 10:02pm PT
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C'mon..........just buy some 3" webbing, and tie yourself a water know with backups... Wanna tie in knot too??? OK, how about a double bowline with yos finish.. All that and a belayer you'd trust with your life pal..........
cheers
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Dirk
climber
Curry Village
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
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OK I'm hijacking my own thread. What's your best swami-whipper story?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 27, 2006 - 10:40pm PT
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Hey, I twice climbed El Cap with just a swami (sans leg loops)--two inch, three wraps. Really started wearing on the old tripe during those free jumaring pitches. Gotta harness after that.
That was tough duty, but for most free climbs the swami worked fine. You tended to rap pretty fast to avoid getting excessively squeezed.
JL
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 11:04pm PT
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Yeah dirk, good hijack. swammied whipper stories!
But more: the other deal with a swami is you may be wanting a belay seat at times. I think those are gone with the mastadons, for the most part. I rigged a tight three point unit for hauling.
As JL said, free jugging, hauling, rapelling- yow.
there was a thing called a baboon hang; employed after a fall which left you free hanging, you were to flip upside down to get the pressure off the ribs and lungs. Then you did a thing with a sling real quick to right yourself, making an impromptu leg loop.
I used to teach that- gahh.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 27, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
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Due to a bad lower back and sciatic that makes it tough to hang in a harness I still tend invert to hang and lower if it's going to take any time at all - a habit picked up long ago working on big hangs in rope coils and swamis.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 28, 2006 - 09:48am PT
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I take it nobody uses a butt bag anymore. ;-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:41am PT
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Patrick:
No Doubt.
What a pain to twist up and stow, then the darn thing could open up and start blowing around like a failed dragchute...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:46am PT
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Yeah Tarbuster, I remember when the wind would catch those things.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 28, 2006 - 11:30am PT
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Actually, the reign of the Swami
is not yet fully eclipsed.
Here's moi, just last Spring,
below the Hog's Back thing at
The 'Leap.
'Fer tech reference, Dirk, those tales are a bit scrimpy...
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swilling bear
Trad climber
lee vining
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Feb 28, 2006 - 11:57am PT
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Dirk the viking? hows your hip dude? hear tall tale that your comin my way,hope so. you gonna climb in a swami so you can rest your hip or what?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 12:04pm PT
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Libido, no way was that taken last year. There's way to much fur on the melon for that. Also note you're chalkbag. Looks sorta like one of Mari's rigs. Also the dimp...hmmmmm
Nice to see ya post all those old pics.
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