TAHOE'S EMERALD TRILOGY (an alpine linkup w/ photos)

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climber

tahoe

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2011 - 04:02pm PT

So, here's the linkup: section 20, eagle lake buttress, and maggie's west face. An awesome day topping out the longest routes in the area. Ended it coasting via cruiser down from bayview to eagle trailhead and icy cold mirror pond pale ales. We took about 12 hours to finish the tour.
An early approach is necessary.

up first: Section 20
4th class approach pitch

stewie on the 4th pitch

sweet ledge below 4th class leading to summit blocks

After the scramble down from Section 20, crossing the creek and leaving our gear at the base of the slab system leading up to eagle lake buttress helped us to keep an eye for moving over to maggie's. On our way to the Maggiewand, Stewie crossing the creek after simu-soloing the buttress.The traverse pitch on Maggie's west face
Following the "money" 6th pitch
One of the Junipers on top
And...
The road cyclists weren't impressed with our bikes, speed of descent, or attire.

mrtropy

Trad climber

Nor Cal

Aug 20, 2011 - 04:33pm PT

Nice!

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 20, 2011 - 05:13pm PT

Section 20 is an awesome route, great pics. What about that knobby wall leading out of the chimney? one of the fun-nest pitches I've ever done.
Those routes are long, but check out Indian rock out of Angora peak area for some real big "stuff" in the Tahoe Basin. Possibilities Galore. and no lines.

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Aug 20, 2011 - 05:16pm PT

That's pretty awesome. Strong work.

bearbnz

Trad climber

East Side, California

Aug 20, 2011 - 06:05pm PT

Big day, thanks for sharing. I've tried to climb Section 20 twice, and neither time could I even find the route going by the description in the old yellow Carville guide.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 20, 2011 - 06:20pm PT

Let's knott talk about the" old yellow Carville guide."
Basically you go around the mountain to about 6:30 or 7:00 o'clock and go up a chimney(Loose) then start climbing up and left, a few exit variations pop up at the top depending upon how much more you want.
That hill has some great potential for hundreds of small route,
Back in the late 70's, I saw Bridwell and Jay Smith doing some crazy ice thing about 4 o'clock on that hill.It still scars me today to think about what they were climbing.....

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

WA, & NC & Idaho

Aug 20, 2011 - 06:42pm PT

Sweet TFPU!!!

climber

tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 07:52pm PT

1st pitch after 4th class approach "pitch"

Brian Biega

climber

Truckee, CA

Aug 20, 2011 - 11:12pm PT

Great shots.

Looks like an awsome tour. Way to go out there!

Cheers, Brian

adam d

climber

Los Osos, CA

Aug 20, 2011 - 11:19pm PT

Good times moving over stone! (and other stuff)

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Aug 21, 2011 - 12:42am PT

well mark i only found five pitches over at indian rock,
and its not in the emerald klettergarden anyway!
maggies west face is eight pitches.
heres some shots from yesterday..

Scott Thelen

Trad climber

Truckee, Ca

Aug 21, 2011 - 10:59am PT

Going to the wood shed !!!!

Brian Biega

climber

Truckee, CA

Aug 21, 2011 - 11:41am PT

Where is the Plectrum, and how hard is the Letter Box Traverse (variation) on Maggies West Face?

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Aug 21, 2011 - 11:57am PT

brian, good questions. the plectrum is the high point for section 20.
im trying to find a shot of that for you.
as far as the variation on maggies well it feels about 5.9
it makes the other two 5.9 pitches feel 5.9+
have you been to the rado lately?

adventurous one

Trad climber

Truckee Ca.

Aug 21, 2011 - 01:56pm PT

A cool linkup!! Jaw dropping views all day of Emerald Bay, Eagle Lake and Tahoe far below and beers and coasting on cruiser bikes to finish it up....... What a great day in Tahoe!!!!!!