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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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went up on the maggiewand yesterday and had a great time on this
seven pitch route.brian biega and myself climbed this line in 2007.
its about 5.9 .
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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well ron i only found about five pitches over there at
indian but i wasnt trying to follow any particular way.
i gotta come up with a good name...
cheers stewart
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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dude we had three roped stoppers that you didnt see. but i was talked out bringing the fancy british lightwieght two and one half inch hex .
#6 was nice on the 2nd pitch.
i hate losing points because of youth.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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looking at your drawing of the route on the photo stewie, what is the descent? walk left (east) down the ridge, or the other way?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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YES!
Looks awesome.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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Did anyone ever try to ice climb on this peak in winter? When I pass it by I usually see some ice formed at some spots but not anything interesting usually...although seems like it COULD!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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of course the winters offer two major routes on maggies both are about
five pitches mixed M4/5 with WI4.
went there in 84? jay smith and myself with paul crawford did some fun ice the lefthand gully.
more info coming. I.V.?
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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Great shots!
Thanks for sharing...
Cheers, Brian
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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caught, its set up to rappel 1 70 meter or double ropes will work.
you can also top out(class 3 100m )walk over to the bayview trail and descend that way, if youve never checked out the juniper grove on the way down its worth going that way. or you can hike up bay view trail past granite lake, up to the north summit of maggies, rappel down and leave.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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Hi Stewie-
Looks like you guys took a slight variation on the fifth pitch?
Great route!!! Five star for adventures close to home!!!
Cheers, Brian
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Yeah, I'll take a copy if it's available too.
Silver, need a partner??
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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of course the winters offer two major routes on maggies both are about
five pitches mixed M4/5 with WI4.
If you post any info about it, it would be GREATLY appreciated by me : )
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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yea brian that fifth pitch is awesome. trying your way seems quite hard.
theres a letter box out right.
and even though the route has cleaned up, extreme caution is still required.
loose holds, dirty cracks, giant death blocks etc
the adrenaline flows nicely because of these factors!
cheers stewart
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
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of course you realize a topo takes away a certain percent of adventure?
this route is worthy as more people climb it they will tell their friends
what a pile it is.
fair enough. its not a place for people who are used to the exellent rock we have in this area. a topo is coming.
and we got buzzed by this buddy whilst taking a smoke break on top!
i wasnt going to post (fuzzy) it but eagles eat vultures ron!
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 17, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
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I can't wait till some dumb f*#k gets on this route...
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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scotty, up there shroomin i would of tweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeked!
its not for those that"enjoy" climbs like bears reach, pop bottle. eagle lake buttress, donner summitt. big chief,woodfords, elephants, the rado. etc.its choss.
p.s. thanks for the fixed nut its a crucial part of the climb now!
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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I've got to take responsibility for the minus points... chucked the hex. What a cool place!
topo coming soon...
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Stewie starting 1st pitch
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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Pretty rock. Props.
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 18, 2011 - 03:07am PT
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Not your average crAg.
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