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AC
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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Supertopo references an old route in the history of the crag. Regular Route/ The Slash. Does anyone know anything about this old route?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 16, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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It's pretty self-evident on the West Wall and shown in the Falcon guide. Sorry...that's all I've got! (But, bump.)
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AC
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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hey, that's something
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:14am PT
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Why is it called Lover's Leap? Legend, or a real story?
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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Hey Ron,
Since we're on the subject of obscure LL routes, have you ever climbed the North Face? SuperTopo only describes the first pitch and there is no topo. Is it any good? Looks interesting...
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:09am PT
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The Slash sounds SO wonderfully amazing. But hey, I love Class 3 and 4 and bushwhacking and all sorts of stuff that doesn't seem to appeal to many people... Thanks for posting this!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
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The description of it as 'mostly 4th class' has mostly been a deterrent. Hey, you can always do Crud Gully down on lower buttress, it has the distinction of being a Robbins FA.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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The North Face is NOT a balls out route. I've climbed it 3 or 4 times, the last being a few weeks ago.
It starts up an easy wide flake/crack with many dikes that goes at a short one move 5.7 when pulling out right around the little roof/flake.
Pitch two is the business. Either take the right side of the wedge at 5.9 O.W. which is not too strenuous for a .9 with great pro or take the better and original line up the left side of the wedge which goes at .11a in the book. It's more like solid .11b if compared to other routes of similar difficulty around the Leap. Hands, fingers, flaring pods and powerful stemming with great pro.
Pitch 3 pulls over the wide roof above at .10c with awkward and funky pro. The hard climbing is short lived and it's on to easier ground. Or... Take the more common variation out right of the roof past two bolts (hard .11 moves) on some thin stemming and crimps then bust left after the crux (about 10ft) and get back on route which climbs a vertical museum of fixed pitons up an enjoyable 5.9 crack and dikes on an exposed face.
Pitch 4 climbs into the junk and tops out through a wall of bushes. Maybe 5.6.
All good pro...
Next obscurity!!!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
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try "incubus" by royal robbins.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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Not obscure but seldom done, Eyeore's Enigma:
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JTele
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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Sorry this doesnt pertain to the particular climbs in discussion here currently but i thought it would be a fitting post to ask about this...On August 6th, myself and 4 friends were climbing on the east wall in the afternoon and had just fininshed on bears reach and East Wall. I was on first belay of East Wall attempting to retrieve my piece that got stuck when i had built my first belay. Anyway a group was on The Line and were leading up pitch 3 when I was lowering (off a cordalette and biner i left and would happily take back from whoever bootied it) A man and woman were just racking up when I was last to leave and hike down. Arrived at the lower lot and a Forest Service Law Enforcment vehicle arrived code 3 and parked and two confused rangers exited asking our group for directions to The Line on the East Wall with a 911 Call reporting a fall there. We gave them directions offered assistance and watched as they set off. We left and passed a code 3 ambulance and fire truck as we went up to camp at the Phantom Spires for the last night of summer. I spoke with my grandparents who live in kyburz and monitor the Fire and Police scanner. they told us that a climber had fallen and was dangling from the wall, they said a helicopter was being dispatched and crews were going in from the top lot and lower to help. The Day after i spoke with Petch who said he saw the heli remove the climber from the east wall and land them in the meadow where they were taken by ambulance. My mother who works in the ER at Marshall Hospital spoke with a friend of hers who is on Search and Rescue who got the call but was preoccupied, he reported a female falling and being unconcious which later regained conciousness after or during rescue. These are all the details i have and am courious to hear if anybody here knows if these people are ok and what caused their whipper?
PS
Sorry for the post hi-jack
JT
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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Eeyore's Ecstasy... Pffft, that's an easy one!
Climb the B.S. right facing corner or gully left of Tombstone Ledge. Better yet, slip all that crap and walk around Via the upper ledge.
Start up the obvious gaping maw that is Eeyore's E. Mainly class 4 and easy 5th will bring you to a big dirty grassy ledge inside the chimney.
Pitch two climbs deep inside the abyss and finally reaches a wide featureless chimney which is climbed by a little groveling and shimmying. Eventually you'll need to negotiate a couple big chockstones (great gear) and formulate a belay here in anticipation of the horror show to come.
Pitch three scrambles up the right side of the huge sand and talus pit that makes up the sketchy part of the walk off of Corrugation. Expect people to be topping up said route and clumsily negotiating this rock pit. You'll want to be aware of this fact as everything that comes down that rock shoot, comes down right at you.
If you and your partner live through this last pitch. Congratulations! You've just climbed Eeyore's Ecstasy.
Incubus I admit I have not climbed. Only reason being, Peregrine closures. I have climbed the first pitch though. Got stuck in a thunderstorm and had to simul off quickly via Bookmark. So far that was my only attempt.
What else??
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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Eeyores Enigma I've done a dozen times.
What about Under the Big Top?
Linked with the best overhanging fingers and hands crack at the Leap.
FREAKSHOW!!!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 18, 2011 - 01:54am PT
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Lovers Chimney is one of my favorite routes at the Leap.
The tight chimney crux can be bypassed by climbing and stemming on the face outside and to the left of the wide low on the first pitch.
Pitch two climbs a stellar finger and hand crack inside a chimney. Think perfect splitter crack with a wall behind you for an easy rest should you tire. Awesome!
Pitch three climbs up a bushy gully (recently cleaned up by someone...Thanks!) Climb through a wide crack/flake with a big edge inside acting like a huge jug that runs the entire crack. Stop at at deep cave and climb the face to the right past thin face moves and onto the exposed arete. A few short moves later and you are back in the gully where you climb past one last short obstacle to a flat perch on the summit.
There is a variation on the third pitch where you can climb up the bushy gully about 25ft and step left to a bushy ledge. Climb around the corner where a wide 3.5in crack is climbed into (East gully) a gully capped by some steep chockstones (5.6). Both ways are good but the original "right" exit is far superior.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 18, 2011 - 07:53am PT
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go charlie d.
you picture stands alone,
hell it doesn't need a chest-beating rant to accompany it.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Aug 18, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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I second Norwegians motion.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Speaking of those who count, George Conner climbed the Enigma on his birthday for many years until he loss count. Here's the old Hootowl and me a couple weeks ago in Tuolumne, imagine a Hootowl and Ghoulwe on the same anchors!
We parted with a mutual hope for more mountain days in the sun with great friends. I've loss count myself and recognize any one of them was the best day ever.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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All the photos and stories are great. Nice shots Sal!
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Aug 18, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
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Justin(aka Jtele),
Petch told me the other day that a woman leading the line, took a hang on the first hard section and her piece pulled and she decked. Stopped breathing and was helped by some nearby climbers. Current condition unknown.
Ron
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 18, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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redundancy folks,
two peace's at the height of stakes...
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