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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:47am PT
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I went to Courtright last weekend, and staring up at little nukie delt me a big slice of humble pie. I ended up climbing the 5.8 below 7 ways from sunday that day to make the approach worthwhile. My wife was not too stoked on my lack of confidence, so we did not climb it.
I am not a slab aficionado and have not been climbing much until recently (too busy in other mountain adventures). But it wet my appetite for the beauty of the slab.
Please give me some ideas on where to work on my slab technique...hogs back?
I live on the 50 and would appreciate some suggestions in the greater s. lake area.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:00am PT
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Hogwild at the leap
Better with bacon 5.8
Prociutto .10b
On the SW face there are 2 clean slabs to the right of peanut brittle.
Both are short but pure friction which is odd for the leap, bolt protected.
Then go hit Wave rider on hogsback.
Mountainproject has a good info for the area.
Mucci
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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I did better with bacon, and I found it easy...really easy.
But little nukey looked way harder and scarier. It is so freaking steep looking from below.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 02:32am PT
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yeah...it has certainly caused me to add it to my list of climbs I must do this year. So far I have two.
Sands of Time, Calaveras dome
and...
Little nukey, power dome.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:40am PT
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Little Nukey is all there... but, like Sands of Time, def real 5.9. Did you have your larger than average collection of tricams?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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A Little Nukey is very cool! Don't feel bad...It keeps us all honest, but delivers a great day's (life's) experience. (It's all there!) Warm up @ Tollhouse...Elephant Walk, Free and Easy and Hippo Wall. You'll get it done.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 10, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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How were the mosquitoes ? Any smoke from the Lion fire ?
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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The Mosquitos were good (non existent) during the day, but heinous for a couple hours in the evening. So about like you would expect. If you can camp without a meadow nearby and can get a breeze from the lake, you should be good.
I didn't see any smoke.
Slob, I didn't have any tricams...which added to my uncertainty. I think I will pick up a black and a pink for a return trip.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Aug 10, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
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Justin,
I would suggest Echo Lakes. The Gangsta Wall has a great 5.9 called California Love that is fun and challenging. Also, Pie Shop has some great slabby climbs like Earn you Wings (just right of Crepes Corner)and a great 10a/b slab climb just left of Clean Corner (name escapes me, but I'm sure Ron Anderson will chime in and remind me.... Also, Berkley Camp has an amazing 10c slab called Saltw#ter Flush. These will all improve your slab technique!!!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 10, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
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grouse slabs at donner.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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jebus, normally slab hasn't been all that scary for my grade, but I urge you to sit below power dome. It looks like an oversized granite wave is about to crash over your head. It looks past vertical from the base. When you are a long way off it doesn’t look that steep, but right up on it, you swear it is overhanging slab.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Yeah we played around mostly on top rope at deer dome for a day this spring. lichen slab climbing...woot woot. Freaked the crap out of myself trying to get to another anchor on 5.6 lichen slab...full rope out traverse, pendulum to the ground got my attention on dirty lichen slab.
set the controls did indeed look hard. Most of the slabs there were hard.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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I was curious about that too. Do stiffer midsoles help or hurt? Seems like a thin soled shoe (so thin you could tell if a dime were heads or tails just by steppin on it) would be ideal. But people say stiffer soles are better?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 10, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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Don't go to Echo Edge, instead go a little further to Mid Dome, best slab climbing at Echo lakes.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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just saw a route on summit post called 'trout fishing in america" on gutenberger wall. Anyone tried it? That looks like a really unique route with a fun penalty as opposed to a painful one.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 10, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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Trout Fishing in America is a great route.
One doesn't always have to climb "slabs" to practice for slabs. What I mean is, routes that require technical edging as well as spicy protection can give someone the mental edge and footwork confidence one will need on a true slab route.
Routes like Fear no Evil, Psychedelic Direct, Crash Landing, Reds Delight at the leap. Or Pan Dulce, Crushed Velvet and Taurus at the Loaf. These somewhat moderate technical edging routes, some of which have a little spice thrown in will definitely help your slab technique.
Usually one should refrain from climbing slab routes at or near their maximum ability. Doing so will almost certainly result in a world of hurt. Slab climbing is definitely an acquired taste not fit for everyone. Trust me, I've climbed Set the Controls For the Heart of the Sun... Twice and many more routes with much more bite than even that one. IF you increase your technical edging abilities along with your mental abilities, you will improve your performance and confidence on slabs.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 10, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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I've always been WAY to scared to fall;)
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kennyt
climber
woodfords,ca
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Aug 10, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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Eureka cliff at Phantom Spires
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KitKat
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Aug 10, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Little Nukey is AWESOME!!! 5.8 minus, well bolted, perfect slab! I'd go down to Hammer Dome in the fall... or try Dancin' Feet on the Hogsback!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:19am PT
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^^^
Really? Dude says he backed off a 5.8- and you suggest he climbs Dancing Feet... A very sustained 5.10d with 50ft runnouts for practice?
Well, I guess if he climbed Dancin Feet he'd then be able to float that .8.
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