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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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I have a # 4.
If I can only buy one other, should I get the #5 or the #6?
On the specs it looks like the #4 extreme measurement is the #6 starting measurement...? So I was thinking the # 6 would be the right choice. They are pricey and I'm broke.
Thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Old style big green Camalots are on ebay all the time occasionally for less than $75. Seems like the best deal out there for fat pro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What do you want to climb with it?
I'd probably go with the 6. Your friends will be more apt to have a five, and in the long run it'll bug you more to have a gap that you'll eventually fill than it will to get one bigger one, which you'll be more likely to rationalize talking yourself out of buying.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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I've got both and I'd say the #5 gets used 15-20 times for every one time the #6 gets used. But when you need the 6 you need the 6!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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My knee is a perfect #5 camalot size. So I've rarely ever needed one. In fact, I've never owned one and never needed too.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Especially if your #4 is the new style (smaller), you'll use the #5 way more, unless you are an OW hound, in which case you'd already have a #6.
#6 is pretty unstable when left below for pro- often ends up uselessly (terrifyingly) cockeyed.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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The #6 Friend has a broad base. The Camalot is Narrower.
It works, kinda. I guess.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Which brings up cap/skully's point, the #6 Friend is WAY
more stable! Though i think they aren't making them right now
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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#6 is pretty unstable when left below for pro- often ends up uselessly (terrifyingly) cockeyed.
That's where the Friends come in...
Get a #6 Friend. You can always bludgeon someone with it....
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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So I hear the #6 Friend is the way to go...
uh oh...just saw this in archives...
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 5, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
not the exact answer you're looking for... but I assume you have a #5 size already? It gets used about 10x as much for me as the 6 (owing to cowardice.)
Anyway, and take this with a grain of salt as my experience with both is very limited, but I like the double axle on the bd. I was pushing up a #6 friend once, and one side of lobes flopped to one side, and the other flopped to the other. weird, and a pain in the ass to fix while stuffed in there.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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The original DogKiller. Then there's Those Valley Giants.
Homan. Elk Huntin'.
I dunno, Slater. Are they the same edition Camalot? I gotta older #5, which is latest #6 size. I don't like it much.
I'm a Friend guy, anyway.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Big Bro equivalent???
Which is better?
As you can see I hate wide... but you gotta have it when you need it.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Big Bros are solid, if you can seat 'em. Craig was badass with those things. But I guess he would be, huh?
That'd be a #2, I reckon.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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For the bigger cams, WC is hands-down the leader.
And I agree, I use the #5 WC way more than the #6.
But then again, I tend to stay far away from leads that require #6's. For two reasons. First, I hate lugging that thing around.
Consider a Gypsy?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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If my partner had a Gypsy and we lacked Wide gear, I'd take it.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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So... since the subject of the #6 WC Tech Friend has come up, does anyone have any idea where I could find a new one? I know that they stopped making the #5 and #6 a while ago, but I was able to buy a #5 at Mountain Gear last week. (As of today, there are no longer any #5s available at Mtn, Gear, so I think I got their last one). I am hoping that there is some shop out there that still has a #6 in stock. I would really appreciate any input regarding where I might find a new #6.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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How would a 2x4 with a hole in the middle with some 7mm cord with a knot and loop work out do ya think? or is that just crazy talk?
I mainly want it for one route I'm looking at... gotta do the wide to get to the good stuff! I ran it out last time but it'd be nice to have something in if I fell.
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ruppell
climber
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Not crazy at all. Any thing that makes the crack "smaller" for the size of the cam will work. The key is keeping them attached to the cam(ie wire). 2X4 or 2X6 will work. Just look at them as you would placing them to make sure the cam will do the job. To low cam slips to high cam never catches.
As always seek proper instruction if you wish to climb. Yada Yada Yada.
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