Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Hmmm, similar advantages and disadvantages as 'bros... how much $?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
They should send me a set for test and review in actual field conditions...
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
Does not seem to me this works. Maybe in really soft sandstone. Incredibly soft sandstone.
I suspect I could change them so they would work better though.
At least two things wrong with them.
Anyone actually tried to use this?
PS:
It does not have the expansion factor implied by the photo.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
Don't place it upside down.
Prod.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
|
|
They actually work, JStan. Well, the Cassin Blitz did. Finicky(sp), yes. But it did work, mostly. A friend had a set in the Valley once. We LOVED testing stuff.
|
|
nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
|
|
|
|
kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
|
|
Hard to see scale in the photos--but Valley Giants are the best!
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
Stephan and JMC, thank you, I thought that they looked familiar.
John S said:I suspect I could change them so they would work better though. At least two things wrong with them.
Love to see you elaborate your thoughts on this Jstan.....
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
For my money, the best OW pro has to be able to be pushed above you as you climb. In really hard OW's the crux can be having to climb around pro so anything that easily travels up the crack above of you is a big, big plus.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
Alexbaker posted the weight of these on another site. They look very light in the picture, but the reality - not so much. I'm not so enamored anymore.
|
|
John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
Seems like they would need a pretty strong spring to keep them in place with an outward pull... wouldn't they?
|
|
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
I've never used one, but my concern would be that the strength, or rather pullout force would vary based on how much the unit is expanded. At the greatest extent of it's range it would have the greatest resistance to pulling out, and as it gets put in narrower cracks the resistance to pullout would decrease. A cam or tube chock will have nearly the same pullout throughout it's range.
I can't tell from the pic or spec sheet if it is spring loaded.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
For my money, the best OW pro has to be able to be pushed above you as you climb
Here's a tip you'll hear almost nowhere else; If you're bumping a Valley giant, the best way to do it, is from above. Just grab that sucker by the axle, like a handgrip on a suitcase, and pull it up after you. Way easier than pushing from below. Way easier to keep the cams distributed correctly. Limited application I realize, but this is a tip that really works!
|
|
John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
I got to play with the Kong Gypsies at OR today. I think I'd feel more comfortable climbing above a well placed 2x4
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
They have a price on them?
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
They're not exactly big. 205 mm is only 8". [That's what she said]
So they're heavier than cams? Heavier than heavy two-axle Camalots? They'd better be cheap, then.
You can't beat a Valley Giant, however.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!