Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
biz
Trad climber
Napa, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
|
I'm wondering what some of the hardest rated chimneys are.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
|
May not be one of the hardest, but may be one of the best.
|
|
tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
|
Liquid Sky: 11+/12- squeeze
Or this wild looking line that everyone stems like El Matador.
I still think the most feared are the 5.9 squeezes of YNP.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
|
Do bombbay squeeze chimneys count?
.13
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 11:25pm PT
|
^^^yes.
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
|
Only the last photo was a chimney, the rest are stemming climbs.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 01:43am PT
|
The photo above is Lucille.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1412648/Road-to-Lucille
Here are some of the hardest rated chimneys in Yosemite (offwidths are in a separate category):
415. Free Press 5.10a **
536. Hand Job 5.10a
573. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a *
640. The Reception 5.10a
749. The Riddler 5.10a *
1987. Fresh Squeezed 5.10a
2802. Worst Error - Right Side 5.10a *
859. Ahab 5.10b *
67. Narrow Escape 5.10c
175. Twinkie 5.10c
1701. 10.96 5.10d **
1886. On the Edge 5.11b R *
1174. Viva Gorditas 5.11c
2322. Realm of the Lizard King 5.11c
Here is a 5.12 offwidth to squeeze chimney:
|
|
tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 02:06am PT
|
Ah. That's Lucille! Thanks, Clint. Apologies for my ignorance. FA Jay Anderson.
Wyoming climbers always win. You guys are a whole different breed of monkey up there.
Jay, what's the bombay 5.13 squeeze? Pictures, please!
Okay, Yosemite 5.9 squeeze doesn't sound so scary anymore. But, hey, they're still hard for us new school trad climbers.
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 04:32am PT
|
I need to go anorexic so I can fit through Liquid Sky some day hooo weeee
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 05:21am PT
|
At what point does an off-width or wyde become a chimney?
|
|
kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 09:52am PT
|
First becomes a squeeze chimney, then a chimney. It's different for everyone. What might be an ow for some can be a squeeze for me, a squeeze for some can be a regular chimney for me. I love a place where 5' 7", 120 lbs is a good thing! I love a good ow, but man, when you can't get even your thigh to chock you in there, it really sucks. But still fun!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 11:37am PT
|
As soon as you can get your entire body inside, Joseph.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2011 - 11:46am PT
|
Table, I was thinking of Lucille , but Pam's route Gabriel 5.13-harder, could prolly be seen as a Bombay squeeze as well.
I put up a route In thehe supes, called Bombay(I think) that is like climbing an inverted funnelat 11+/.12-. No pro at the beginning, crux. I did it with a spot . My spotter said he didn't want to follow it, so I dropped the rope and tunneled sideways and up through 5.10 squeeze. There's an obscure route, probably looking for a third ascent. Right by distal digit dysfunction(a .12c sport climb) in the land of nod.
Edit: that's an amazing topo that Richard made for wideworld, what detail!
Other edit: a note on Lucille and scale. Pamela is farmore diminutive than most us cranky old male climbers. We don't fit up there in the finger/glove manner that she does. By actual measure Grug's fist is the size of both of hers stacked (she asked me not to takethe picture).
It will be interesting to see what he comes up with on the 5th!
|
|
biz
Trad climber
Napa, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2011 - 11:55am PT
|
That is a great site. Thanks for sharing.
|
|
Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
|
|
I recall having an out of body experience in the modest chimney/flare/ow? of Yosemite Point Buttress and it's only 5.9 if that (So I'm told),
No amount of effort would get me up it, I couldn't protect it and in any event it was granular, crumbly, and seemed to flare no matter how you oriented yourself.
I didn't have the ballz to bridge up the outside.....:-(
It was a long thrash up, and an even longer thrash down. All very humbling.
Steve
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
P3 of Reed's Direct is scary chimney at a more moderate grade (5.6 - 5.8), and the technical crux is well-protected .10a OW up high but I wouldn't call that part a chimney.
Angry Natives in the same area has a good one (the actual chimney part was already a route before Angry Natives extended it).
Sugarloaf to the left of Pony Express, there is a short OW pitch that leads to an AMAZING back-to-feet chimney that is more cool than any I've ever seen. Probably 5.9, but there is zero way to cheat with other technique, and there is no pro. And as you move up and left the ground falls away from you.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
Edit: 5.6 to 5.9 chimney's all feel the same to me, and the only real rating difference for me is how bad are the consequences of falling. So I might call a scary 5.6 chimney a "5.9" and a technical 5.9 squeeze might seem casual and cruiser for me, I might under-rate it.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!