Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
NotIt
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 18, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
|
Sorry to have to talk about climbing, but...
This is an absolutely fantastic climb: a wonderful foot traverse followed by a moderate lieback to the belay. Half the reason I find myself wandering over to Grouse Slabs, though, is to do the direct second pitch: straight up from the belay through a 5' roof split by a tight hand crack.
I have many times wondered what grade this hand crack sequence goes it. Had the chance to look at the New Tahoe guide yesterday and saw that it's called .9 in there (btw: what an incredible looking guidebook - can't wait to pick it up!).
Now the Falcon guidebook doesn't give ANY information on it and just shows it as an alternative, implying it goes at the overall route grade (.8).
For my money its definitely no .9, and to call it .8 would be laughable. Knowing full well that the question is really irrelevant (you can climb it or you can't), where do you think it comes in?
(Yes, I understand the Donner grading tradition - looking for a consensus grade rather than the "local" grade)
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
|
Sounds cool.
Pictures?
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
|
seemed like 5.8.5
|
|
Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
|
Hey, I've climbed Jellyroll twice and both times led out that roof since it is sooo inviting.
I rated it 9+. I put a comment here on the proj about it.
|
|
adikted
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
|
Notit..were u there sunday afternoon?..if so i was doing insidious crack with my girlfriend, i think u check our guide....gonna do that roof next weekend for sure..glad to hear its good.
|
|
Aerili
climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
|
For me, Black September has always been easier. The first time I ever led it, I went right up, lowered off, and asked my partner that day, "Is that really 5.9?" (Yes, it was a low gravity day, haaa.)
Jellyroll Direct is a different style, a somewhat worse hand-size, and seems harder for me. It's physical and reminds me of Nova Express in that regard.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!