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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 27, 2003 - 07:45pm PT
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Feb 28, 2003 - 12:24am PT
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Hey Russ,
Is that you? You look like you're groveling... :) How fun!
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BASE104
Big Wall climber
norman, OK
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Feb 28, 2003 - 06:49am PT
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Yep. That looks like a pescador I knew once.
I saw the Fish float Bad Ass Mama in his cowboy boots like it was 5.6 one day. He had it ruthlessly wired. Took like thirty seconds. I couldn't drink my beer that fast.
Mark
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Feb 28, 2003 - 10:39am PT
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Niiiiice. I'll have to remeber that technique next time I'm gripped and wedged. I'm wondering, what was your next move?
Ed
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbing's good
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Feb 28, 2003 - 11:36am PT
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His fingers? What's a little tape when you are bare armed? I always dress up for the wide cracks or I don't get home with quite enough of my skin.
BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:23pm PT
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>By the way Russ, what in gods name is that white stuff on the fingers? Looks like AID to me! >
Yep.... tape is aid, if:
You are taping for size.
You are taping to protect UNDAMAGED skin.
You are taping for a better grip.
Tape is not aid, if:
You are taping your pant leg down.
You are taping a detached tendon.
You are taping anything that a doctor would call an evulsion.
You are taping a head wound.
You are hiding a protruding bone from your squeamish partner.
Russ
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2003 - 01:30pm PT
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>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing Twilight) Say 9s and 10s? >
Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left
hmmm..... senior moment....
Best bet is to do Generator left side in, right side in and then stack it. Repeat....
Russ
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AlexC
climber
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Feb 28, 2003 - 02:33pm PT
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>BTW, what are some good one pitch wide cracks to practice on in the Valley
>other than those at Arch Rock and the base of El Cap? (And yes, I'm eyeing
>Twilight) Say 9s and 10s?
I asked a similar question on rec.climbing and got some good recommendations. See the thread here:
Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Circuit thread
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbing's good
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Feb 28, 2003 - 02:41pm PT
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Thanks. That should keep me busy.
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coiler
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 28, 2003 - 10:27pm PT
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Russ' wide crack stacking looked pretty good. But as far as style he seem's to be missing the number one thing, an icy Olde English 800. It always seems to help me get loose for the wide. A few of coiler's favorite wide crack obscurities, high test ones he recommends: The hourglass left and right, Steppin' out, Reed's left, Agent orange, Alley cat and Doggie do just to name a few. A must try at Lover's Leap is "God of Thunder" a true Offwidth problem that demands levittation and stacking to surmount two large overhangs. It's first pitch is perfect fingers(to help you warm up), Excellent!
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burger
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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That picture makes me want to puke!.... Looks like fun in a demented sort of way though.
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burger
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Anyone been up that offwidth/chimney horror fest on Calaveras Dome? Looks completely nuts, or are the pictures just decieving?
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
prescott az
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If you live in So Cal try 11 double d, and the wave (both close to eachother). These are in the Lake Arrowhead pinnicles (prime in winter and early spring). Refer to the new guide book to the San Bernadino Mountains, Hidden Treasures by Brad Singer.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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You should see Ken Kennega!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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FISH SAID
"Chingando
Doggy Do
Orange Juice Ave.
Moby Dick
Vendetta
Generator Crack
Reeds Left"
Howz about 1096?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Got any more pics in that sequence? I wanna see the next two moves.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2005 - 12:04pm PT
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how about 1096?
That one ain't exactly for neophytes to be practicing on.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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No, but he said he wanted to try 9's & 10's. It's rated 10d, correct.
All I know is that it's kicked my ass twice (not that I'm rad at fat cracks or anything), I only wanted to do it because the guy that taught me how to climb did the FA (not sure when but it was pre-cam and there's a photo of it in Vertical World of Yosemite and he's all the way at the top of the squeeze section with his last hex like 40 feet below in the last constriction).
At 55, he's still much harder than I.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Yeah, it Phil. The story he tells about the whipper he took onto that hex a couple tries before he sent it chilled my blood when I first laid eyes on the beast.
He's still putting up first ascents, albeit in Eastern Washington now.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Yo Russ, you canŽt just post some posed shot of you (I know for a fact that your feet are on the deck on that phony baloney pic) without attending copy to really flesh out the lie. So get your hide back in the saddle and type us up a whopper.
BTW, IŽm flying back home (in Venezuela presently) tomorrow and was thinking about dropping by your crib as promised and then perhaps a visit to our boy James kicking it in the hospital after you wire the mountain unicycle IŽll be bringing out for your enjoyment. After ten minutes on said uni bones will be showing and IŽll just lay you in the bed next to James.
LARGO
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