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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 2, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
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On your way to Tahoe? Checkout the Bowman Valley off I-80/Hwy 20 past the Emeralds. Some of the best moderate sport cragging in the Tahoe area. So far about 70 routes - mostly 5.8 - 5.12. Free camping, excellent swimming. Larry Land lies below the cement dam/Bowman Lake, Candy Land and the Cove across the flume base of the descent road (Windy Point). Plus Scott Land, Ire Land, B-Word. All offer excellent climbing of all grades. Cheers.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Thanks, Mike. Do you know how much of this, if any, is included in the new Tahoe area guidebook? I'm still using your 1999 book!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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nice!!!!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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No, Bowman Valley and the new Emeralds stuff is not in the new Tahoe guide. I don’t know much about the new Tahoe guide except that I think it is a .pdf/order on-line kind of thing but I am not sure. Page 24 of the old guide briefly describes B-Word, which is an excellent crag. In the gulley behind B-Word is the Frye Wall. Short powerful bolted climbs by Scott Frye. Josh Horniak is putting together a phenomenal/comprehensive guide to Tahoe similar to the current Vegas guide (Bowman/Emeralds over 200 new sport routes will be in his new guide).
Larry Land lies below the Bowman Lake cement dam (13.5 miles on Bowman Rd. from Hwy 20). Park at the bridge and walk up the road (blocked by a cable) along right side of the dry riverbed for 5 minutes. Cliff boarders the left edge of the dam (excellent swimming at the lake). All routes are well bolted and most are 5.11. Everything that goes out the big roofs is 5.12. The 2 routes on the right are 10s.
The Cove (across flume) and Candy Land (a couple hundred yards left of The Cove) are up and right of the road at the “S” curves after you descend from Windy Point (well before the Larry Land pullout). Hope that helps, and give a shout if you see us up there - we'll show you around.
Cheers, M
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mike,
Thanks for the post! Please tell Josh I said hi!
Tom Patterson
(formerly of Nevada City)
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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In the same area I bolted (along with someone else) some easy routes on a 90 ft slab.... ~7 routes 5.6 to 5.10b. Park in same area described and head to the nearest wall through the trees...about a 2 minute approach.
Great little area to take beginners.
BTW, The areas Mike describes have some of the most solid granite I've ever climbed on.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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Steve is that you? Your routes are great. How'd that bordering cave turn out?
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Is it too hot to climb in July?
I remember about 20 years ago some guy named Mongo talking about putting up routes there. My memory's hazy, maybe it wasn't Bowman. The lake that feeds Fordyce creek, that have rock nearby?
Edit: Just looked at a map- maybe Spaulding.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Hi Mike, yeah it's me. The bouldering wall is mostly done. All but the far right side is dug out and the landing is nice and flat. The topouts and upper portion of the wall need some cleaning still. I've only had time to put up one route.... ~V3. There are probably another 10 problems that can go...up to V7?...probably a long traverse along the entire wall too. Cruxes will be the topouts. I was there last weekend and winter has solidified the landing and the fine dirt I dug out has settled.
Trips out there this year will be spotty since I just became a first time dad Tuesday....wish me luck.
Hope to finish up the wall....or anybody else for that matter.
For those interested park in same area just before the bridge and walk down the blocked off road (blocked off with a cable) to the right, walk down about 40 yards to a huge dead tree on the road and head right up the hill about 15 yards. about a 5 minute approach. 45 degree overhanging bouldering wall with a 15 foot lip, 30 feet long.
Steve Montesanto
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all in jim
climber
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I think it's probably super hot there at the moment? But, like Mike said, there is excellent swimming in the lake and sometimes in the creek, as well.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Most areas are shady in the morning. On sunny days it's quite hot in the afternoon at most of these climbing areas maybe withe the exception of B wall. Larry land proper gets the most sun. Cloudy/overcast days are best since you can climb well into the afternoon.
If the snow comes late the road will remain open longer. These late season days (Nov/Dec) are great because the air is cool even though you're climbing in the sun. 2 seasons ago I climbed at Larry land a week before Christmas in comfort.
Hey Mike, is that about right?
Cheers!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
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You bet Steve. Josh and I climbed out there last night from 3pm-8:30pm and will be out there again tomorrow. The rock is still cool due to late summer but it was hot in the direct sun. Larry Land in shade until about 1pm, The Cove until 3pm. B-Word gets shade in the afternoon. It will probably be too hot in a few weeks. Like Jimmy said, you can always take a break mid day and swim.
Congrats on your new addition. I have two - 5 & 7 years old. They're great - I wouldn't trade them for the world but expect your climbing to drop at least a number grade! Hope to see you out there this summer when you get a chance to sneak away. Cheers, M
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 10:20am PT
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Hi Tom,
I'll let Josh know. Next time your down this way, we'll have to get out there. Cheers, M
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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The correst placement for the Metolius rap hanger is in the bottom of your trash can.
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stella
climber
cali
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Jul 10, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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any topos floating around for the area?
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Jul 10, 2011 - 10:35am PT
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Hey Ron, is Bowman in the guide?
Thanks.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 10:50am PT
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Maybe Bowman not being in the guide is a blessing in disguise....
Steve, you sound like a proper guide for the area. I'll give you a shout when I'm up that way. Swimming, climbing, fishing? I'm all in!!!
Woot!
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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Nice! Good to see those photos of Horniak, been a while... looks fun!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:05am PT
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Blue,
I forgot to mention the topper......deep water soloing!
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