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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
audiobahn1000
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
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The other day, at Dinner Ledge on the Prow, a few people were arguing about how to secure a fixed rope that went up the bolt ladder on the dihedral. For those not familiar, the fixed rope was running over a sharp dihedral between pitch three and four and they wanted to secure overnight in a manner to prevent the wind from destroying the rope by blowing it over the same sharp edge over and over. Anyway one person said the rope should be free to move around a bit and another said the rope should be secured to the lower belay station and tensioned with a wall hauler or locking belay device so it wouldent move.
Whats the best way to secure a fixed rope overnight in high winds so as to prevent it from getting sawed through on a sharp edge? Tension it or let it fly around a bit?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
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Id use knots.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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May 29, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
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Dinner Ledge isn't on The Prow.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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I think that's called a roof. And sharp indeed, luckily someone had taped it already.
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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May 29, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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I would defer to the Taco's own super-guru of climbing best parctices, Phil Olinick, on this one. Phil, can you help us out?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 29, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
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You're worried about a rope over a sharp edge swinging around idly in the middle of the night.
But, you're not worried about sawing through the rope while learning to jug the next day.
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Yer gonna die
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audiobahn1000
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
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So I take it no one knows the answer.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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May 29, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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I never fixed from there. Led it & kept going.
It's your call onsite.There's a big tree on the other side of the ledge so you could tie up clear of your Nemesis. Try that, maybe.
Cheers.
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WBraun
climber
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May 29, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
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Securing fixed ropes
If you have no clue then give it up now.
What's the world coming to?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 29, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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It would help if you could tell us exactly which route.
Bunch of tricks for the fixing the Kor.
Garden hose, sliced down the middle and some Ducktape works wonders on your psych during the jug in the morning.
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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May 29, 2011 - 11:29pm PT
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I'm guessing that in the amount of time people were arguing about this, mid-wall, you could've just topped out. Ditto for the amount of time it would take to do all the weird garden hose duck tape stuff.
But there are lots of fixed ropes in Yosemite. If you want to secure one for yourself, just go get it...its all yours.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 29, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Sometimes duck tape just isn't enough when you venture beyond the milk runs.
2 min STOPS THE CHOP!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 30, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Has anyone gotten the chop jugging up he Kor roof? That edge was un nerving as hell.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 30, 2011 - 04:57am PT
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WVB is the one to ask about chopped n00bs on Dinner Ledge.
The traditional place to saw through your rope while jugging is from the P4 anchor of the Tangerine Trip. Three ropes tied together make it almost impossible to not bounce the rope back and forth over the sharp edge.
Nowadays, people wanting to live to finish the TT fix to P5.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 30, 2011 - 05:11am PT
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Decades ago a friend of mine fixed the Kor roof, and pulled the rope really tight, then anchored it for the night. The wind blew all night and the rope got to vibrating, with the sharp edge continually sawing in the same spot. When he jugged in the morning the rope was cut 3/4s of the way through. Needless to say he had to clean his pants.
I always tie the lower end with maybe 3 feet of slack. (it won't cut, but wont blow around the corner either). A super tight rope cuts real easy.
and/or you can tie in a lose runner from just above to just below the edge, as a backup if things go bad in the night.
Now what to do about hungry rats. That one I don't have an answer for.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 30, 2011 - 05:32am PT
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The wind blew all night and the rope got to vibrating
Well, there you have it: a long stretched rope in thin air is gonna go medieval guitar string on your ass, and the Devil's riff is gonna get you.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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May 30, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
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I recall the p4 anchors on the Trip being a straight air shot to the trees. sharp edge at the top of two has chopped a cord or two. And then there are the jugging mishaps cleaning pitch 4.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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May 30, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
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I only tension my fixed ropes if there are no edges and the rope is plenty far away from the rock. Otherwise I leave a little slack in it. If I’m really worried about the edge I will tie a knot at either side of the edge on good protection. This way there is no weight on the sharp edge, it’s the weight of the rope combined with the wind moving it that causes a problem.
Oh, and use a proper rope protector… duct tape on the rock is SOO ghetto.
Have FUN!
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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