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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2011 - 10:10am PT
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Clint and I are making our plans for this seasons bolt replacement efforts. We thought we would ask here on the Forum for ideas. The recent trip report on Slander Session with its old bolts and bad hangers is now on our list.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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IMHO by order of route popularity,
hence potential wear (repeated loading)
of the anchors.
Carrying a couple load limiters for the less traveled
climbs with bolt protection/anchors seems a reasonable
measure.
And thank you very much for the exemplary effort.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Karma is not a good candidate because it needs to be reworked to meet modern standards and isn't a simple matter of removal and replacement. Ken and Dave need to be involved in the decision making as it is their line and is far from straightforward.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Unh-Huh. Only 2 bolts.
Roseanne.
Harlot.
Curve like her. Replace fixed pin with bolt?
Ursula.
Tune Up. Haven't done it but want to.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jay, Roger already replaced Ursula - and every other bolt on the steep right wall of Dozier Dome (including Tune Up)! We didn't even fix ropes for him, that's where we sent him when we couldn't keep up with fixing ropes for him everywhere else in Tuolumne!
He did remove a 1" rusty piton protecting the crux of Ursula - with his fingers. 1" cams fit nicely.
edit: Roseanne is replaced (Drew Rollins), except for one bolt that Drew never found (some people find it, some don't)
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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A few old buttonheads with SMC hangers on Big Rock....1st bolt on 'Pudnurdle' comes to mind. Even if you came off near the second bolt.....its pretty useless bolt.
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
love, trust, and T*Rs nuts!
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please do the 5.9 on the slab in the alcove on el cap, cant belive that one hasnt been done yet,,, and no need for rope fixing monkeys. karo and i will be reroing karma next week any one wanna help??!?!?
-ptcc
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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First of all, I'd like to offer my services helping to fix ropes if needed.
Suggested replacement ideas:
*Upper half of Mother Earth and Smith Crawford.
*Misty Wall and Geek Towers (I hear their not so good, dont know for sure)
*Ahwahnee Buttress
*Many routes on North Dome
*Sentinel West Face?
*All the stuff above Point Beyond? ( Lucifers??)
*Karma (would love to help)
*Bircheff Williams
*Crazy
*The Odyssey (might be a waste of time)
*Tour de Force??
*The Cobra
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'd be willing to help out with any of these or other routes.
Edited to add: Ah hell, I wasn't even thinking of Tuolumne. I'm game for all that too. I know Fairest of All and Heart of Stone have some bunk bolts on them.
Happy rebolting...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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"The Odyssey"
Yes. Plenty of other good ones requested too.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I was just going to tie into two fattie ropes and sack the fukk up. I don't think you can get to it very easily from the top. It'd probably take thousands of feet of rope and a couple days to fix safely.
I really don't think retreat is an option either, at least not very easily.
You could MiniTrax the thing, but if you fall you're still going to face the chop. Ain't no spurt route up thar.
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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The bolts on middle earth (Marioulumne dome) are heinous and in serious need of replacement if it hasn't been done by someone else yet in the last 3 years. There are two sets of double bolt anchors on top of pitch 2 within 15 feet of one another (vertically). The lower set should be replaced by a single bolt and upper by a double bolt anchor.
Thanks again for all your work, Roger!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I replaced all the bolts on Middle Earth in 2008 with Karen Chaltikian and Peter Valchev rope gunning.
All bolts except the doubled pro bolt (now one good bolt) and the bolt next to the flake (we chopped it, there was good pro at foot level with modern cams). The lower set of doubled bolts was the original anchor and better stance, the upper one was doubled pro bolts and bad fall potential off the belay if we were to have made that the belay.
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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Thanks Greg! That route is pretty sweet and should be getting more traffic now!
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Double D
climber
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Piece de Resistance Yup and might as well add Mr. Toads if it hasn't been. Two very fine routes.
*The Odyssey (might be a waste of time) Would be a waste of time. There's only a couple of bolts on the 10c face pitch if I remember right and the "gardening" pitch prolly needs a shovel, hoe, rake and sandblaster to get it up to par again. The 11d OW pitch is stellar though...too bad.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2011 - 05:43am PT
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Thanks, Jay, Randy, Chad, Will, and Dave. Good stuff.
Your help was really great last year, Chad!
I still feel bad you had to climb that mud/grass/bushes pitch in the arch twice! to access Benzoin and Edges. All fixed now, though!
Here's p2 on The Cobra (in 2004) with ancient 1/4" Star-Dryvins and the step across the wet streak/stream:
And as for you folks spamming "Karma" - "You'll get yours"! :-)
Tuolumne may not be accessible for awhile due to all the snow, and Roger may be ready soon, so stuff in the main Valley is good, even if scattered around a bit.
The "easy pickin's" of Arches Terrace, Glacier Point Apron, and Middle Cathedral North Apron are mostly done; now looking for the remaining rusty 1/4"ers that are hiding here and there.
We had some routes like El Matador and Champagne on Ice on the list last year, but didn't get to them. After the big rockfall, maybe it's good we didn't....
The list on the ASCA site of rebolted climbs is fairly complete, although it is still missing the stuff replaced in 2009 on the Middle Cathedral North Apron
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
(I think Crazy was replaced, or maybe most of it?)
[Edit: see below, only the first 4 pitches were replaced on Crazy]
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