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luquitos
Trad climber
santa cruz, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Anybody have any info on Mindahoone wall near upper yosemite falls. Any good description on how to find it or other info?
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luquitos
Trad climber
santa cruz, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
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Clint, I've seen the topo in the guidebook. I guess I was wondering if it's easy to find the start and if anyone's done it and recommends it or not.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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My friend Brian Cox did it.
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bob
climber
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Apr 11, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Went up to this rig a couple of days ago with my buddy Pat for his first and my second go. The last time I climbed this route was 15 years ago and I remembered some good climbing, beautiful positioning and moss. Lots and lots of moss in places. Well, I have to admit I was taking this route a bit lightly from my memories of it. I did it then it must be cruiser now, right? Wrong. Its strenuous as hell and way steeper than it looks. It also has been cleaned up considerably as far as the moss factor goes. The position is indeed beautiful. The climbing is good throughout. It seemed good even when it was mossy. (not like it used to be!) The hike is a butt kicker as always, but its relatively easy to get to the base from the one of the last switch-backs. Its a bit of veggie cruising from there over to a huge boulder where gearing up is optimal. Then just veg over a little more to the ledge that takes you up to the base. Easy, but you do have to go through (with) some bushes. Just go.
Great fun if you like routes that take work. It has some stout goodies.
I used to be in Valley shape and now I climb face routes in Tuolumne. This route spewed my weakness before me. Two days later and I literally feel like I got in a bar fight and lost... minus the face punches. Beat to sh#t is how I feel, but with a smile of course.
I need to climb in the Valley more.
Here's our topo:
I can't seem to get the pic to be standing upright? I've tried and tried. I give up. Tilting the screen is going to be tough for some folks! I'll edit the pic if I figure it out. Sorry. :)
Go do this route.
Bob Jensen
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Apr 11, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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nice topo bob. Awesome shit!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 11, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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Did it about 13yrs ago with a friend, Ken Unit. Can't remember a lot. We had fun. I got the second pitch. Ken got the 11a pitch. I remember we didn't take the best approach getting to it and it took as a bit to find the start. I also remember the 2nd to last pitch goes left around the corner so the last pitch is not in view until your right there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Thanks for the topo, Bob - will update the guidebook one.
Here's your topo rotated:
Here's my attempt at an overlay - do I have it going in about the right place?
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The New Age Blitzo
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Ummmm, It's The Menehune Wall and the route that Walt freed is a different variation.
The route in the photo is so far off!
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The New Age Blitzo
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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Steve Bosque on the first pitch on the first ascent.
Warren Harding on the approach to "The Menehune Wall".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Blitzo,
Thanks for the corrections.
Sometimes a "first guess" is pretty ugly! :-)
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The New Age Blitzo
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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Reid misspelled it in the guide. He also went by Walt's topo. The route we did went up the right side of the tower. It was 1976, I have a hard time remembering exactly where we went, but we had a blast!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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Blitzo,
Thanks for the info on spelling and where the original route went.
I am thinking the free route goes left of center on the tower (that is how it looks like Walt's topo lines up with leaning corners in the xRez photo, and right of the big left-facing corner on Bob's topo).
Did you guys climb any ows? I was just wondering if that bolt next to the p3 5.10d ow was placed by Walt/partner (Kevin Fosburg is reported in the book, but he wasn't on this FA/FFA) or was on the aid route?
Here's my same overlay guess (for the free route), on Walter's photo.
Sure looks different with the shading and perspective!
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bob
climber
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Apr 11, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Clint, that looks like what we did more or less. Nice.
Blitzo, did Walt call the free variation Mindahoonee Wall? Maybe my brain didn't read the above info close enough. Man you must of had a blast up there. Do you have more photos from that area you'd like to share? I was sans camera. I just love watching the people from up there. They're just wandering up the trail.......... :)
Bob J.
edit: "Reid mispelled it in the guidebook..." got it! I'm a bit......... quick sometimes....too quick.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Thanks, Bob. I'll try to rescale your topo a bit using the photo.
Very helpful to know there is 5.10d ow on the climb (2x); the old topo doesn't say much about crack sizes except listing a #4 camalot.
Blitzo,
If the free and aid routes are fairly separate, then the guidebook should list the free one as left side of tower and aid one as right side.
I could see how the routes could join at 2 (or stay apart), and up high the aid route could go straight up the nice headwall.
The guidebook list has Warren, Mike Corbett and you on the FA list.
So we should add Steve Bosque? Anybody else?
Rating for the aid route? The "generic" 5.9 A2?
another link - "What's the Menehune Wall?":
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1186643
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 11, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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BOB!!!
no info from me, hi bump.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Yes, Steve bosque should be on the FA list. I will ask him about the climb, and relay the choice goods. I saw some badass pics of the FA at his house a while back.
Blitzo! Look for a message bro.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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From Steve Bosque:
Well, as far as I can remember, Warren, Mike Corbett, Blitzo, Mike Baum and myself started the route in late winter of 1975. We fixed a couple of pitches and returned a month or two later in 1976 to complete the route, but with a different team. Warren said he wanted a "cast of thousands" for the FA and we came pretty close.
There were six of us on the final push. Harding, myself, Billy "Blitzo" Serniuk, Alison (Clough?)- not sure of her last name-, Margret Young, and Jorgen?- not sure of his last name or the correct spelling of his first name either.
There were two good ledges on the climb- What For and Why Not. We bivied on Why Not. Batso, Alison and I were the only ones to lead pitches, but a great time was had by all. Lots of friendly bickering between Margret, Jorgen and Warren. The route was predominantly aid with a few sections of moderate free climbing. It was a long time ago and I was extremely green. Blitzo may have some more detailed information. Hope this helps, Josh.
Steve
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The New Age Blitzo
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 12, 2012 - 04:39am PT
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I have more photos, but I'm in Bishop and they are in JT at home.
Jorgen who I thought was called Jergen died on Cathedral Peak, as far as I know.
I don't know about Allison, she was the only one who wore a helmet and the only one to get hit by a rock. it was small and caused no problem.
I remember Bosque leading a wide pitch, I guess it was a chimney. Margret Young was following on Bosque's waist belay and she couldn't do the moves and ended up jumaring Bosque's waist belay! Poor Steve! She wasn't exactly "Petite"!
Smoking bong loads with Warren and eating salami and drinking Red Mountain wine, by the camp fire on What 4 ledge was to die for!
i have more info, but I'm a bit hammered and it's kinda late.
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