NW face of half dome conditions?

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
chossyslab

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 3, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
Is it possible to get on this thing right now? Is the snow level still too high? Are the temps too cold since it's in the shade mostly? Anyone in the valley have some beta on conditions for this wall right now? Greatly appreciate any input - Thanks!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 3, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
ST has a link to some webcams from the Yosemite Association. Unfortunately, the only one working right now is the one from Ahwahnee Meadow.

I know from (somewhat bitter) experience, however, that you can get to the face now via the Muir Trail. I don't know what the Death Slabs are like, though, and I'd expect some wetness on the face itself. The posts on the cable face are still down, but it's a rather straightforward descent down the cables without them (and, of course, without the tourists that go with them) -- at least for climbers.

Since the weather's supposed to be stable, why not give it a go?

John
Gene

climber
May 3, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
John,

Maybe you or others can chime in here. I recall with my rapidly diminishing memory that going to the base of 0.5 Dome from the trail approach can be rather sketchy this time of year due to the snow. I have a vague recollection of traversing over hard snow with the potential of a big ride to Tenaya Canyon if things go wrong.

g
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 3, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
We had plenty of snow heading from the base of the Dome to the NWF, but it was comfortable for us without an ice axe. I could certainly see that possibility, though, if there was enough snow and enough opportunity for it to harden.

For us the worst part of a snow approach was having to reverse the approach in April of 1972 when we failed and had to endure the Walk of Shame.

John
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
May 3, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
It's possible, but maybe not advisible. Wait it out or climb a sunny Wall.
Or Yer Gonna Die!



donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 3, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
You will enjoy it much more, and it is a blast, if you wait until mid-June.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
May 3, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
I think Rockermike did it once in the 80s when it looked like that. He later explained that the snowslope is BIG, and that distance distorts that....of course you get to pass a good part of the first pitch, yet at the top he said that there was a significant moat that separated the snow from the wall. Mike had significant alpine and ice experience, and I remember that it was a risky proposition to cross it. Which he did....


Maybe Mike will chime in. Hope I got the story right. Or close:-) Donini is the voice of experience I'd listen too.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
May 3, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
Make sure that the snow is soft enough (afternoon?)or, yes, a big ride into Tenaya Canyon will be a real possibility. You should be able to pick up a stick on the way, I wouldn't bring an axe.

It might be more fun a bit later, depending on how you define 'fun'. But then other people complicate the equation.

Good luck and stay smart!
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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