Separate Reality Beta and training

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tallmark515

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 04:02pm PT

Got on Separate Reality over the weekend and got my ass kicked. Wondering if anyone has got any beta for the crux (2nd half of roof i.e. insecure jams to the throw to the jug).

Also, anyone know of any valley boulder problems that might be good training for the route?

Best,
Mark

J. Werlin

Social climber

Cedaredge, CO

Jan 31, 2011 - 04:37pm PT

Maybe Bachar Cracker? There is a crack and you are upside down.

Edit: Grab your fire extinguisher, I feel the flames coming...

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jan 31, 2011 - 04:38pm PT

I don't mean to sound like an arse, but I think you will feel much better about an accomplishment of this caliber if you figure it out yourself without peeking at the puzzle box top.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Jan 31, 2011 - 06:35pm PT

I with IHP on this one...But I had always been into cracks, overhanging, or roofs. So having Bachar Cracker ruthlessly wired already, (did it like 10 times in a row for the Rolling Stone Mag shoot in '83.) And having done the FA of the Pig Pen onsight, (also known as the Bachar Cracker of the Desert,) I hiked Separate onsight. This however was after the lip broke and it went from 5.12 to 5.11+

dogtown

Trad climber

JackAssVille, Wyoming

Jan 31, 2011 - 06:47pm PT

Study the videos.

NigelSSI

Trad climber

Jan 31, 2011 - 06:49pm PT

I <3 PIGPEN!!!

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Jan 31, 2011 - 08:06pm PT

I'm with tallmark. I'd love to do the route, but I bet I'd spanked right now too.

If I was training for it, I'd go for lots of routes at the El Dorado roof at the Owens River Gorge. It's close to my house, so I'm lucky that way. I would think that the issue for the onsight is being able to hang on long enough to find the right jams.

Bachar Cracker is two hand jams and three finger locks to a deadpoint. I'm not sure that it would help much unless you did it a bunch of times in a row like Watusi.

On the other hand, Bachar Cracker can be made easy with tricky finger lock. If there were such a trick on seperate reality, it might be hard to find on your first go?

I don't know, but your goal sounds worthy. I might have to pull out of my funk and give it a try too.