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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA (currently in Lutry, CH)
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:57am PT
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Great video! Thanks for posting...
(although I didn't unterstand all the German)
Beautiful route and filming with sun-lit crag above snowy village.
Seems rare to see someone placing that kind of small gear in the Alps...
Kammerlander has been bad-ass for so many years. and not well-known
to most US climbers I think.
(unfortunate bolts left of the line... And do you
really need a bolted anchor on a nice natural line like that...)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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Recent sighting...in SLC at the winter OR:
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
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Thanks for the post.
Yes, beautiful indeed.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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Far from old!
Handsome, dashing, incredibly talented, and still showing the world how it's done.
Plus he's got ... you know what's!
Keep on cranking Beat ... you are one of the great ones.
Love the film.
Thanks for the uplift.
Jo
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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so rad, he's even got a beer in his hand!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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Wow. Really really great video.
You know what the best part was?
"No Bruce, what was it?"
He did that bad ass thing placing little wires, not clipping bolts!!
"Poor guy, doesn't he know he's hopelessly out of style? That he could do much harder things if he rap bolted it?"
Guess he hasn't "caught up" yet.
"How are people supposed to go up there for the rad repeats if there are no bolts to clip?"
I don't know...Maybe they'll have to learn about technologies of the ancients.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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too easy...
edit: Just watched the vid again. Double ropes with a belayer on each. Missed that first time. I've done that on a few routes - definitely a good method.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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Extra extra bonus points for naming the guy Beat is talking to...
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Guy behind him is Reinhold Messner. Can't see the person he is talking to:-)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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You got me there, not enough face to see.
I will say though that both Mr. Kammerlander and the fellow in the red shirt look somewhat surprised by something that guy just said. Beat looks downright skeptical there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Clue: Rock and Ice.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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So...you are saying there is a bolted sport route on the Eiger, but, you don't clip the bolts OR use a rope?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Beat Bump!! That video is too cool.
Funny to see Dean in there too.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
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Das war wirklich ausgezeichnet!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
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How hard is that thing anyway?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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The guy in the redshirt is Duane Raleigh, who looks to be aging well I might add.
Thanks for sourcing that video; Beat's comportment reflects intelligence ... really makes me wanna understand his words.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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according to the website:
5.13d/14a and E9-E10
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hb81
climber
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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5.13d/14a and E9-E10
Quite amazing for a route thats "only" vertical, not overhanging.
Wonder if someone like Sharma could climb that. I think he'd be having a REALLY hard time even if it was bolt protected.
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