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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 18, 2011 - 03:02am PT
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hold em, then 20 years from now, bust out one or two.
we'll need climbing content, because by then this will be a pundit website.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 18, 2011 - 03:15am PT
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Whichever way you choose, I think its cool to get topos out there. Some to be used by others to climb those routes. Others (many of the ones you probably have Klaus) to be looked at, oggled and respected.
I wish I had a comprehensive wall climbing guide, to be able to look at what routes there are on all the walls. And to maybe get an idea of how hard things are. You can argue that one might just 'go after it' but it seems to me that could lead to more destruction of routes in a way. Say I charge up on a line, not sure if its an established route. I find anchors for a pitch or two, but then cant see the next ones, assume it was a bail, then charge off in my own direction, etc.etc.etc...
I guess, Im just saying I love looking at topos and having access to them, thats all...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 18, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Crazy to think there is actually a race for a big wall book.
Those two used to work together, now they are working against each other.
I agree, there is no way to get all of the walls/new routes in one book.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 18, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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I'll buy em both.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 18, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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Well, if it's a race, I'm gonna take Nanook because last I saw him, he was drivin a late model Trans Am or Firebird with a 300+ ci V8, whereas last time I saw CMac he was in a low end Bimmer..like a 318 hatchback or something, that looked like it had been rode hard and put up wet...then again those Pontiacs don't corner real well...is this race on mtn roads or the flats?
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 18, 2011 - 03:04pm PT
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Of course they will not or cannot put all the routes in one book as the Supertopo planned obsolescence strategy would not work in that case. They've got to keep adding routes into the bag as the old ones turn into trade routes. On the other side of things 95% of the people who buy a new book wouldn't climb any of the added routes anyways, But I agree with Hoi, we just want to know what is out there.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 18, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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Steve said: I'll buy em both.
Sigh, we probably all will.....
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Burt
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Jan 18, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
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Nanook/Erik Sloan in no way getting a dime out of this guy. His blatant disregard of history and then kinda standing there like a peacock when he does it it poor form. Now this guy wants to make more money off his "endeavors"? I wouldn't buy the previous supertopo book because of Sloans name attached to it, but if he is on his own then I will be the proud owner of the new Supertopo 3's book... I mean dude... you drilled up the Great Slab Route... a Layton Kor route that you got the prob 2nd ascent on... he put up in the 60's!! With a rope tied around his waist! And you drilled... wow... such a lame disrespect...
Kurt Burt
For a small fee of coarse... right Klaus :)
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jan 18, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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I'm waiting for "El Cap Top Ropes."
Photos courtesy of Urban Climber Magazine.
Foreward by Tom Cruise.
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Balls MaGee
climber
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Jan 18, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
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y'all are pussies and whiners. who cares. go get a job
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jan 18, 2011 - 10:47pm PT
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Ok, I would definitely buy Silvers guidebook and probably even CMac's,
but not Sloans....for the obvious reasons already stated previously.
On second thought, it could be thought of as a guide to where the
added bolts and rivets are that need to be pulled.
It wouldn't be the first time "someone" has chopped some of Sloan's chicken bolts.;)
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Balls MaGee
climber
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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git-ah-jeb. who cares. y'all old timers will be dead soon and the new generation of climbers could care less. a variation here-and-there....big deal. adding some fatties keeps everyone safe and climbing restrictions to a minimum. people start dying all the time and that s%#t will get shut down sooo fast.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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How great would it be if Chris and Eric would work togather on this project to produce the comprehensive Yosemite Big Wall book. Coffee table size, full color, history, topos, on and on. The kind of book you can look at for years and never get tired of thumbing thru it,sometimes just for inspiration, with all the classics, obscure routes, and variations. I'd pay good money for a book like that.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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amen Studly...
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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adding some fatties keeps everyone safe and climbing restrictions to a minimum. people start dying all the time and that s%#t will get shut down sooo fast.
Are you Eric Sloan?
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Dan T
climber
Locarno Switzerland
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Jan 19, 2011 - 11:13am PT
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„git-ah-jeb. who cares. y'all old timers will be dead soon and the new generation of climbers could care less. a variation here-and-there....big deal. adding some fatties keeps everyone safe and climbing restrictions to a minimum. people start dying all the time and that s%#t will get shut down sooo fast.“
Dear Balls,
I hope it’s OK if I call you Balls, it seems like everyone is on a first name basis here.
In reading your comments, I believe your motives are sound. I think we can all agree that safety is important and that no one wishes to see anyone get hurt or worse. Unfortunately, your arguments are based on poor logic, false analogies and ignore centuries of tradition.
Being a sycophant (look it up) is not terminal, try thinking for yourself.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 19, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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I'll buy both books.
I'm hoping the Supertopo Updated book includes some new routes and has more emphasis on clean clmbing.
I'll buy Nanook's book as well. That variation he did to Kor's route didn't make a lot of sense, but he has a lot of experience and knowledge about the big stone that I would like to tap into.
We have all done things we aren't proud of at some stage in our life. Unfortunately, it often isn't until much later in life that we realize it.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 19, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Are not putting up variations that make a line more direct fairly common? See: Zodiac (Essentially all parties take the more direct bolt ladder on pitch 5(?)
It is all a bunch of internet bitching until someone gets out from behind their computer and does the THIRD ascent (hahaha) of this route!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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Just for the record, the GSR WAS repeated in the 90's.
No bolts were added on that ascent.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 19, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
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Doesn't seem the place for it, but I don't like slander either. My understanding is he created a variation around a free pitch that had no gear. He's never bragged to anyone about his free climbing prowess. However, suggesting someone with his aid experience would have to drill around A4 from the 60's sounds like BS to me.
Have any of you wankers gone up there to personally inspect or even chop his work, or is that way too much work - so much easier to sit here and mindlessly spew hear-say about it? Erik has put a ton of work into the climbing scene there - ie, real work. Most of you likely haven't done sh#t, certainly not in comparison.
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