Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
|
So, what's been happening at Woodson?
Last years Woodson thread was cool, with plenty of pictures, stories, and beta. Given that it's the time of year when we seem to be relegated to bouldering more and doing routes less I thought it might be nice if we could get a thread started (and hopefully keep it running for awhile) where we could discuss Woodson activities, both past and present. Sort of like last year. Good posts and pictures help motivate, so help me out with the boredom fight that always seems to come around this time of year.
If you have pictures, post 'em. You got stories, post 'em. It doesn't matter what you did, let's hear about it. I know some of you locals have to be going up there, so what's happening? Anything new, or notable repeats? Oh, and by all means, don't neglect the smack talk and slander as those are key ingredients.
As for me, I'm on the verge of making my first Rubidoux based raid into hostile territory. I even talked the bighead (aka Woodward) into going. Should be good as long as the weather cooperates. Maybe we'll even finish "Welcome to Rubidoux".
Has anybody done Ace's High or Piece of Mind? I thought they were really good, Piece of Mind in particular. Thankfully they're face and not one of those silly fat things. Of course, if I've done them that goes without saying. Hey, maybe I should make MS a goal for the year. But if I can't find enough face holds and need to actually stick a body part in that thing, well, it could get ugly. Oh well, Reign1, you up for belaying?
bvb, dude, tell us a story or two. Maybe show us some of those countless pictures you seem to have.
Let's party.
|
|
blr
climber
socal
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
|
I myself haven't been out there much lately, but I've heard that some of new, younger crew have been doing some 'shwackin out to some of the not-too-often done (or found) problems. I have no doubt that they're sending a lot of 'em too.
I did manage a half-day out there recently giving Mucci the intro tour. Pretty sure he liked the place.
Unfortunately, no eye candy for 'ya, just a verbose "bump".
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
|
2005-07-07 -- WARNING! Circa 1985, I experienced a frightening dilemma while TR-ing the Mother Superior boulder on Mt. Woodson. I thought it would be beneficial to tell my story to help keep others from this desperate experience.
Ken belayed me from the popular chockstone belay as I, wearing a pair of loose-fit Levi's and a swami made from 4" tubular webbing, stacked and Leavit-tated thru the bottom section without missing a beat. Eventually, however, I came to the tight, final knee placement above. Here my pace slowed while I delicately slotted my right knee into the shallow, cup-shaped slot. I kipped my upper torso up, seated my next fist stack above and weighted my jammed lower extremity. Using desperate technique I gained a higher hand placement and attempted to remove my well-seated knee. Knowing how to remove stuck stopper placements (by backing them out the same way they were placed) I soon became aware that it was going to take a little longer to remove it than I hoped. I remained calm at first but after using every trick in the book and pumping out in the process I realized that it wasn't coming out. I asked Ken to give me tension and informed him of my dilemma.
My body weight was now firm on the rope around my torso, for I didn't have any leg loops. I grasped hold of the rope above to gain leverage and to provide relief from my constricted diaphragm. Nothing progressed quickly, however, so I asked my belayer to tie me off and assist. After applying two prussiks to the rope and securing his end, Ken chimneyed across until he was under me. He put his shoulder under my buttocks as a seat while I continued to work on my knee. But this didn't last long, for Ken became tired fairly quickly.
I needed leg loops and Ken knew it as well. He scrambled back to his equipment and put together a hasty pair of legs loops out of 1" webbing. But when we tried to apply them, we quickly realized that one of the leg loops wasn't going to pass over the stuck knee. Ken would have to form the leg loops around my legs while chimneying underneath me.
Suddenly... hope...
Ken and I heard voices coming up the road. We both froze, turned our heads and watched as five guys appeared from around the edge of the boulder. They happened to be U.S. Marines walking up Mt. Woodson's road for a good workout that day. We quickly recruited them to help out with our situation.
Being connected at the hip, as most Marines are and usually having the Sergeant of the platoon in charge, Sarge promptly asked what he could do to help. I told him that I needed relief from my make-shift swami belt and that I desperately needed leg loops. Working together as a team they took turns having me sit on their shoulders while one performed the delicate operation and eventually managed to tie loops around my legs! But, after all that time and trouble they spent, the loops weren't quite as effective as I needed them to be and it provided little relief. One Marine suggested that he cut my Levi's off in hopes of creating enough room to be able to free my knee. It sounded like a great idea and I was anxious to have it done. I started to worry though as the Marine pulled out his K-Bar and proceeded to slice my pants off from the ankles up! He had to leave the section around my knee for it was tightly wedged between my joint and the rock. He even hung his entire body weight on the matierial from below but couldn't manage to free the last piece.
I was spent at this point and everyone else was sensing the acuity of the situation as well. The Marines started to lose their continuity, the volume of their vioces started to rise and nothing was being accomplished. I seemed to be the only one able to think straight so I spoke out loudly and told Sarge that he needed to send one of his guys down the mountain to the Forestry Department station at the entrance to the mountain and get help. Sarge quickly assigned the task and one of his grunts started the run down the road.
Just as he gave the command Ken's girlfriend, who was sitting on the rock behind watching this whole scene unfold, pulled a tube of sunscreen out of her purse and said, "Why don't you try some of this?" My whole body was starting to cramp, not to mention the excruciating pain that was eminating from my now swollen knee, and any new suggestion gave a glimpse of hope to an already desperate situation. A motivated Marine grabbed the tube of hope and shimmied back across the chimney to squeeze the sunscreen in every open place he could see around my knee. After putting out as much effort I could stand my knee started to move within the confines of the rock! Within moments my knee started to slide up and out of the slot. As it popped free from the rock's grasp my body swung away from the overhanging crack and I slumped forward onto the rope. A rush of pain and relief raced thru my body. A reverberating hoot and "OORAH!" came from the tired Marines as Ken celebrated with them. Ken quickly put me back on belay and lowered me to the dark cave below. He and the Marines assisted me back up to the road to a much-needed rest atop the rock.
But what had gone wrong? My pants had ridden up my leg, bunching at the knee and causing it to wedge tightly in the crack. What I learned from that day on Mt. Woodson was, one, to always wear a harness, at least on Mother Superior and, two, remember to tape the cuff of my Levi's down to prevent them from riding up my leg. I had known this prior but I had no tape to do so and wasn't patient enough to simply come back another day. Had I done this, however, I wouldn't have experienced this situation up on the mountain. I guess I was lucky, for I only suffered some scrapes, a sore knee and a little embarrassment.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
|
Training for Cameron's Traverse starts tomorrow.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
|
This time with the proper attire...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
|
Pretty damn busy dealing with the blizzard we're hving in Flagstaff right now, but I got a million good Woodson stories that have not seen the light of day, and the statute of limitations has probably passed.
Stay tuned.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
Henny ropeless on his onsight ascent of "Hard As Nails," 5.11b...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
|
Always loved this one of Paul Schweizer on "Jaws," 5.11 (b.i.t.d.)...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
|
Ethan Pringle highballing "Grainstorm," 5.12...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
|
We're all ears bvb... You're not going to toss out some dirt on gonamok, are you?
Dang, it's cold here right now, snowed this morning. Makes those pictures of bouldering in the sun look really inviting. Chance of showers this Sunday?
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
|
I like a good stuck knee story.
They always have a happy ending.
But...a swami made from 4" tubular webbing? Really?
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
|
Sure. 2" tubular webbing has 2" on the front side and 2" on the back side.
That's 4" !!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
|
Yep, just as cartographers create errors on their productions for copyright purposes (wink).
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 12:15am PT
|
Fog still covered the knolls on Woodson's east slope that early Saturday morning. I unpacked and prepared my rucksack when a familiar voice caught me from behind. I turned and watched Ken walk down the narrow shoulder of the highway towards me.
"Hey," Ken greeted.
"Mornin," I replied. Ken never said much but I always knew he had plans and that it was going to be tough staying up with him. He was a great asset to have when you needed motivation. We were young and probably in the best shape of our lives for I was not only climbing, but swimming and riding road bikes as well. Ken had taken off from Rancho Benardo, an hour before me, on his bike, wearing his fully loaded climbing kit on his back, and met me there. Ken's an animal I'm telling you! We were both ready to test ourselves on the mountain.
We warmed up on the practice boulders, continued up to TV Screen to break in our rubber further, and then took a quick walk over to Slant Crack. Dropping back down to the road Ken continued and detoured up and over to the Long's Cracks. Leaving our ropes behind, and without saying a word, I shoed up, stepped into the corner, then flowed powerfully and through the crux at the top. Ken arrived shortly after as we gave each other "knuckles" and walked back to the base. Our blood was starting to flow.
"What do you think about "Driving South?" I asked.
"I'm not up for it but you're up, and if you want, I'll give you a spot," Ken encouraged. This was a test-piece for me but I was feeling strong and really wanted it this morning. Fifty percent of the time I nearly end up on my butt walking down the slippery trail to D.S. and this morning was no different. Ken laughed. I can't seem to avoid it!
Anticipating the hurt, I continued to chalk up and massage my knuckles a little longer for the second knuckle on the left middle finger really gets worked early on. I wiped my feet on the piece of carpet.
"Right hand, thumbs down, left hand, thumbs up, left toe on the square edge, then crank through to a crappy right hand, thumbs down below the lip," I pantomime and rehearse in my head. I get through the lower sequence without a hitch, my feet kipping up at this point, squeezing the offset with my toes. I bump the left hand up and over the lip to a bomber, flaring, thumbs up left hand. Things need to move quickly here for my groin can only crush for so long. An incredible body tension move allows me to hoist my torso up over the lip a bit and reach a single digit right index finger pod about eighteen inches higher. Somehow, my right foot comes up underneath me so I'm sitting on it at the lip. This, combined with friction, allows me to precariously release my left hand and find another single digit, left index finger jam, which enables me to get up onto my feet and finally become established. It's fifteen feet of 5.9 to the top from here. I was fried but I pulled it off...thank God! Gathering up my stuff, Ken meets me up at the road. We take a short walk up and put our gear down below "Blasted Rock, #2." The weather is still comfortably chilly as we ready to enjoy the knobs on this gem. Ken breaks out one of his infamous healthy snacks which he is known for and sharing with me when we're together. His Mother taught him well.
Suddenly...
"Did you hear that?" I asked.
"Whoa, dude, that sounded like a person," Ken replied quietly. Our eyes were both looking in the same direction up and behind where the "Silk Banana" was located. Spontaneously getting up onto our feet we started walking slowly up the slope, listening intently for another sign. We both agreed that we had heard a faint moan that sounded like it came from a girl. We arrived and walked along the base of the arching flake when we heard the sound again, but this time, above us. We quickly made our way around and to the top of the formation where we found a disturbing sight. The petite body of a girl lay in a fetal position wearing, what appeared to be, climbing attire with her chalk bag visible around her waist, her feet were bare, pale and ice cold to the touch. The tips of her toes looked blue. Her blonde hair covered the side of her face. I, being a Paramedic, checked her pulse at her wrist and it was regular but rapid and weak. Again, her skin was ice cold and wet to the touch.
"Are you okay?" I asked, trying to assess her airway and level of consciousness. She didn't respond. I firmly pinched the skin on her tricep and she withdrew appropriately.
"What do you want me to do Gary?" Ken asked.
"Right now we need to keep her warm. Go down and get our jackets if you would for me." I delegated. Ken quickly ran down to the road and returned, placing both jackets over the girl. I did a quick head to toe exam and found a large hematoma to the back of her head. There was no obvious bleeding. Her back was clear as well. I asked Ken to help me lay the girl onto her back. She moaned as we tried to lay her legs flat, preferring to keep her knees bent. We left them in situ. I opened her eyes and her pupils were unequal. Her abdomen was distended and firm to the touch. She moaned when I pushed on it. She was incontinent of urine.
"Ken, this girl is in a bad way. We need to get help. You know that CDF station down at the base?" I asked.
"Yep." Ken quickly responded.
"Hopefully someone is on duty. If not, go to a house. Go down and let someone know what we have and get an ambulance up here as quick as you can. I'll wait here with her. Be careful!" I spoke as calmly as I could.
"I'm on it," he said, quickly disappearing down the mountain. An hour or so passed but eventually an ambulance and rescue truck arrived with Ken as well. After they took control of the situation, we assisted in placing her into a stokes litter and down to the road into the ambulance. Standing in the road, we watched as they left.
We never did find out what had happened to the girl nor what her outcome was but it was a day up on Woodson that we'll never forget!
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
Henny, I'd take great pride in belaying you on MS. That wimpy climb goes in shorts "if" you have good technique. I'm fully recovered after your hundreds of attempts on "slap you silly" that one cool afternoon. Did you ever do Ricks problem just right of "deport johnny" called "forever"?
I'm feeling pretty strong after I cruised snake dike last June. Also that picture of you on "hard as nails" looks photoshopped to me. Did Powell help you with those pics? I've seen some of his wilderness pics and most look like wild animal park photos shopped into his outdoor landscape pic. How's the snowpack up there? I'm thinking about doing a winter ascent of Whitney. That way I won't have to do any of your new stuff in the portal.
Do you snowboard?
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
|
DAY ONE TRAINING REPORT: Forgoed training for Cameron's Traverse today . Instead contemplated look on Eee-on-kee's face when told of easy on site flash and downrating. Studied topo of Snakedike.
|
|
Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
|
Mckay,
It's Ken. Just got back from Robbins, tv screen etc. etc.
Only in town for the day and had a few hours with both kids in tow. Had to entertain them as well as try to climb.
I would of called if had more time.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!