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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Hey Jim E...
What do you think about this?
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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What does this do for the chinese finger trap aspect of how ropes work?
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Danholio
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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I guess your back-up knot would catch you if the sheath ripped while jugging. I guess it could happen but in practice, it's never happend to me nor have I heard of this happening. Anyone out there heard of this happening?
http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/unicore.php
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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That guy juggin on the trip?
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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Looks like the intended usage is indoor or canyoneering/caving.
Edit:
But they do mention toproping and lead belaying advantages on the website...?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Dec 10, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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That's pretty interesting, thanks for posting.
Wondering when the good 'ol boys will chime in with the obligatory anti-French crap?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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It looks like the sheath failure in the first few tests led to total failure. Am I mistaken?
I would like to see some dynamic testing comparing this rope vs comparable normal rope weighted acorss a cutting edge.
Prod.
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jsj
climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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It's hard to tell if the weighted ascender just pulls the sheath off the ends of the test sample during the failure, or if somehow the core is breaking too...
If it's just the sheath pulling off then this only seems like it would be relevant for those who jug (over edges) frequently (or use mini traxions or other sheath grabbing devices).
But if there's actually total failure being prevented by this new technology, then it seems like all climbing (especially lead) applications would benefit.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
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After watching the video I understand the comments of those who say "who jugs up near the end of an untied rope?"
Looks like the biggest benefit would be to stop gym ropes from getting all stiff and funky at the ends from sheath shifting.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Dec 10, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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It looks like the sheath failure in the first few tests led to total failure. Am I mistaken?
I'm under the impression the sheath failure led to core (total) failure too. I think that's why they moved the camera out to the side angle.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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After watching the video I understand the comments of those who say "who jugs up near the end of an untied rope?"
Maybe I'm dim... (Ok I am), but I still do not get this at all.
Prod.
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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The ropes are weighted using an ascender, which grabs the rope sheath and, on the standard-style rope, pulls it down off the core. This is particularly a problem if you are on ascenders near the end of an untied rope and hence can pull the whole lower sheath off and fall to your imperfect day.
After seeing this, I'm leaving my box-cutters at home.
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jsj
climber
Boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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If it's just the sheath failing, then what you see happening is the weighted jumar pulling the sheath completely off the core of the rope... but if you had a knot tied in the end, the jumar and torn sheath would only slide down to that knot before being stopped...
...unless the jumar pulled right off the rope altogether which I can easily imagine happening on a messed up sheath like that.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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I seem to recall another manufacturer recently coming up with a different solution where the sheath strands are woven through the core strands. Can't for the life of me remember who it was, but I'm curious how it would fare under a similar test.
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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I like the UNICore. I bet that it passes the edge test too. Pretty much makes sense on all ropes. Might be good on ice with all those sharp points.
I was just talking about buying new ropes with a friend. I will be keeping with what ever I find on sale.
Having trouble finding a 60m or 70m Unicore. Found the 200m, 20m, and 30m. I don't see myself buying 200 meters at a time.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
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Now I get it, you guys mean tied off as in back up know as well as the end of the rope knoted.
Duh, told you I was dim.
Prod.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
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It appears to me the setup is rigged for the sheath to pull off the core near the free end.
"How often are you on jumars near the end of a rope that isn't tied off?"
Exactly.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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I believe most lab tests on ropes are done using a near worst case scenario. Jumar usage + near end of rope + no safety knot + sheath damage = pretty damn' bad scenario.
We get multiple lessons from this viddy.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Dec 10, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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what's wrong with my rope?
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