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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 20, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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With Thanksgiving right around the corner, I would like to give thanks to our very own Jello for being so bold and far-sighted and to Jim Phillips for sending this ultra classic and ground breaking December 11, 1978 copy of Sports Illustrated my way. William Oscar Johnson did a fine job of portraying the subject.
Happy Holidays Everyone!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
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Wonderful Steve! I hadn't seen this! Thanks!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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Great stuff Steve!
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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Amazing.
Thanks for yet another big value-added post, Steve!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
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jello, master of ice.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nov 20, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Great blast from the past-thanks Steve and especially thanks to Mr Jelloman.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
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Jeff, have a good Thanksgiving. Quite the bar you place in our sport...
Thanks
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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Great story Jim!
I wonder how many others were given a shove by this piece to get after that frozen stuff?!?
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Nov 21, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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What a great article! Thanks for posting..
Jeff is the man! and a super cool guy as well!
Kurt
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 21, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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Bump for Jello--he's quite the fellow!!!!!!
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Nov 21, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Fantastic! Love those Hummingbirds and Chouinard rigid crampons.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Nov 21, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Awesome Steve, thanks.
Jello is a visionary!
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Nov 21, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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Big push by Jello here as well. I'd tip my helmet...oh, but we didn't wear helmets did we? I'll lift a glass next round to you Jeff.
Rigid SMCs btw...Chouinards were already long out of favor..as they would generally break.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 21, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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Jello Rocks!!
What a bold dude that Jello.
Love the classic gear. Too "cool"!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 21, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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Nice reminder of how far ahead of everyone else Jeff was.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Nov 21, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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Yes, Jello was visionary with the Bridal Veil Falls climb in 1978. This climb was also the beginning of the love/hate affair between the Idarado Mining Company and ice climbers. By the fall of 1979 it was illegal to climb Bridal Veil. Legality and illegality and access has yo-yo-ed back and forth ever since.
Eric Jacobson leased the the Bridal Veil Power Plant from Idarado for a number of years and was fairly open to ice climbing that that did not end up on his deck or went up the "wrong" part of the falls. (Note: Eric also has a hydro power lease on some of the water/pipeline that is part of the Ouray Ice Park and has been pro ice climbing there). Idarado canceled Eric's Bridal Veil lease a few months ago. Time will tell if Idarado tries to shut down Bridal Veil Falls ice climbing now that they have total control again.
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Leggs
Sport climber
California originally, Old Pueblo presently..
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Nov 21, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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Fantastic post, Steve... Thanks for sharing!
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Nov 21, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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Climbers and the Access Fund watch how things change or don't change with Idarado back in 100% control. We might need to work to keep Bridal Veil open to climbing.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 21, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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It is always amazing to me to see a good climbing story in Sports Illustrated!
Thanks for posting and the great scans Steve!
Jello! Woohoo!
It must have been strange to be written up in S.I.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Nov 21, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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I don't know of any changes about access from Idarado yet... I do not trust Idarado on any issues. Idarado could wait awhile before making some access change or they could be cool with ice climbing forever.
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