Lose block on The Monster (Freerider) - To cut or Not to cut

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Stein

Sport climber

San Diego, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2010 - 04:30pm PT

Any thoughts as to what to do with a large loose block on El Cap?

Last year when I climbed Freerider the large loose block on the Monster Offwidth pitch was moving, but still jammed in the crack. This last week-end I went back up, and now the block is totally out, holding on from a slings.

Any thoughts?

In the mean time, I would not recommend walking at the base of the West Face of El Cap.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Nov 19, 2010 - 04:35pm PT

It ain't gonna be there for too much longer, that's for sure!

cultureshock

Trad climber

Mountain View

Nov 19, 2010 - 04:39pm PT

The slings were pretty bad at the end of last Fall. Someone reinforced them between November 2009 and April 2010.

Really hoping that this thing will cut loose this winter.

I expect the fall line would end up around Sacher Cracker and surrounding routes.

Perhaps if it gets a bounce it could go all the way down to Moby Dick...

In case it's not obvious in the photo this block is about the size of a mini-fridge. Fairly significant...

Scary!!

Luke

WBraun

climber

Nov 19, 2010 - 04:42pm PT

Cut the damn thing loose and Walleye will be at the base with his baseball glove to catch it .....

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Nov 19, 2010 - 05:24pm PT

Trundle that beast!

HighTraverse

Social climber

Bay Area

Nov 19, 2010 - 05:34pm PT

Graphic proof that tat slings still have some impressive tensile strength.
At least for now.
Wonder how long it will last if it's unmolested?

Perhaps it will take its anchor with it?

Slakkey

Big Wall climber

From Back to Big Wall Baby

Nov 19, 2010 - 05:37pm PT

I say cut the thing lose

OlympicMtnBoy

climber

Seattle

Nov 19, 2010 - 05:40pm PT

Remote control tat cutter?

Or maybe just someone with a radio on the ground to clear the base for a minute?

Post some signs before you head up to cut her free?

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Nov 19, 2010 - 05:41pm PT

Werner or Ranger Jessie McGahey need to go down and haul that thing into the alcove. (g).

Stein

Sport climber

San Diego, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 05:56pm PT

I thought last winter's storm would do it. I just hope nobody goes up and reinforces the slings again!

I tried to email the Ranger, but no answer. I guess he's staying away from any liability...

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Nov 19, 2010 - 06:00pm PT

Stein, I think the climbing ranger is not year-round and may be off-duty for quite some time, not sure. That thing is 11 rappels from the summit.

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Nov 20, 2010 - 01:08am PT

Werner or Ranger Jessie McGahey need to go down and haul that thing into the alcove

Over time, the block would tend to move towards the edge of the Alcove, and present a further danger.

It would be safer for Werner and Jessie to haul the block to the summit, and then carry it off to Tamarack Flat, where it can be put into the back of a truck, removed from the park entirely, and delivered to a crushing station for proper disposal.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 20, 2010 - 01:26am PT

Paging the Colonel, Guillotine on aisle nine!

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Nov 20, 2010 - 01:29am PT

Or maybe---Tom--- encased in a concrete jacket like all spent nuclear fuels are then stored in one of those salt mines we have been using for such hazardous waste.

Actually we should do a thread on "the traveling block".

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Nov 20, 2010 - 01:37am PT

Peter, that's a great idea - send the Death Block off to Yucca Mountain, and bury it 20,000 leagues under the sand where it can do harm. Let it wait out its 500,000,000 year half-life in peace.

How did that thing get loose, anyway? It seemed pretty much stuck in place in 2004. Have that many 5.11+ climbers really been pulling on it? An obviously loose block?

Or have people wedged it out of position by putting hauling station cams behind it?

It does seem a bit high up there to simply yell, ROCK! and let it fly. But, with cell phones and the like a winter MIAD ascent to trundle and rap back down seems like the thing to do (for someone other than me).