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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2005 - 12:15pm PT
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With all the talk about M.R.'s reported free solo of Romantic Warrior & such I was wondering if anybody out there has ever actually seen him soloing something? I've seen Bachar soloing lots of times, I was on the Rostrum when Croft soloed if for the first time. I've seen Yabo, Lechlinski, Gilje, Danno & others practicing their art. Many others saw these ascents & more so credibility was never a question.
Having climbed Romantic Warrior myself(using a few points of aid in the Book of Deception pitch) I must express my doubts about it being soloed. The rock is a bit grainy & flakey, there is lichen all over the place making for a nice ball bearing surface under the feet, and the moves are rather insecure stems & smears. I want to believe Michael but considering that Peter Croft & Dave Schultz got shut down on the crux pitch, and Craig
Smith from England who tore the sh#t up during his trip here(Pyromania, Davey Jones Locker, etc) got shut down too, I find it hard to believe that what some of the world's best couldn't free climb with a rope, M.R. claims he free soloed.
I saw him solo a short 5.12A at Malibu Creek once after toproping it several times, but nobody I know has seen Reardon doing some of the more bold things he has claimed to have done. He's a nice guy & friendly but in climbing perhaps more than any other "sport", personal credibility is everything. We have no judges or committees to say whether or not an ascent is legit or not so one must be taken at their word for their climbing feats. If somebody I know told me "Yeah I saw him solo it" that would be enough for me. So far however, I have heard no credible reports of seeing the ascents M.R. claims. I want to be a believer but where are the witnesses to these feats?
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 18, 2005 - 03:21pm PT
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I couldn't agree with you more Bill. Who has seen it? I have given the guy the benifit of doubt in the past. But after hearing a spray session of his this past summer in Idylwild, then him telling me that one of the people I was with that day (that heard the same spray, who called him on it in another thread) was full of sh#t. I am convinced the guy is not what he claims he is. Let see it Reardon, the Vampire, Turbo Flange, Romantic Warior you pick I want to see. Your spray and credablity have become worthless. "who has ever actually seen Reardon solo anything hard?"
Tommy T
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Dec 18, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
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Check out the second half of return2sender the dvd that came out a year ago, it shows him soloing plenty of difficult climbs and on multiple types of rock. Some of the footage i remember was at Jtree. Anyway he talks his chops off, but seems to back it with impressive solos. Nothing however on this video is near the difficulty of romantic warrior. Pretty good footage though, but the indian creek segment at the beginning is way better.
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Wheatus
Social climber
CA
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Dec 18, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
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I have personally known Michael since he first started climbing. He is one of the most talented climbers I have ever known. Within he first month of his climbing career he was sending 5.11's. In the first year he was trad climbing up to 5.12 in Josh.
I have personally witnessed many of his trad roped ascents. However, I have not witnessed his recent soloing spree. I know many credible friends who have witnessed his amazing solos.
He is brash and outspoken but I believe his claims (based on credible eye witnesses) are true. Michael may seem boastful but he is not a liar.
I can't understand the debate on his credibility. Michael is different from Croft or Bachar in that he self promotes his accomplishments. His reasons for self-promotion elude me. However, Michael is his own person not a clone of Peter or John. Let Michael be himself. I would not impose my values on him.
Personally, I think all the debate is slanderous and unwarranted. Believe him or not that is your option. I just think he have the benefit of the doubt.
Get a life guys and gals.....you have better this to worry about and debate.
P.S. My only redicule of Michael is his littering of Sierra climbs with panties and plastic toys.
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Southern Man
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 04:28pm PT
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Bachar occassionally posts on ST. Why don't you start a thread asking his opinion on MR's soloing. After all, MR is a friend of his and is sponsored by Acopa climbing shoes of which Bachar is associated. I'm sure Bachar would give you an ear full! You ain't too skeearrd to do that are ya?
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Dec 18, 2005 - 04:42pm PT
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Right Ski Track (Im pretty sure though it could of been the other one) on Intersection like 4 years ago, I think it was about the effin sickest thing ever. He didnt stop once just a solid movement the whole way. I trust him for his ascents.
But of course there is going to be controversy on someone who kicks THAT MUCH ASS!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Dec 18, 2005 - 04:54pm PT
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Maybe I'm asking the stupid question here, but he has photos of him soloing it, does he not? I don't get the magazines, but I flipped through them in the bookstore the other day and saw Reardon had coverage in both - with photos.
Ought to talk to the photographers.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:10pm PT
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Believe me maculated I could put you on just about any climb and take a photo of you in that spot long enough to document it on film and make it look real.
This is without photoshop and actually placing you on a real climb. Not very hard to do at all!
As Largo said this about MR's Turbo Flange solo in the other thread.
"That's one I'd just about have to see to believe--but I wouldn't be able to watch."
Now when totally outlandish claims are made, people will naturally question their authenticity. There is absolutely no slanderious motives involved with such questioning.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:11pm PT
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Just curious...why do you guys care so much?
If you want to see for yourself, go hang at Josh and you will see Reardon there. Then come back and report what you see.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:26pm PT
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Werner, don't take it as though I'm validating the ascents . . . I don't know either. However, my "ought to talk to photographers" comment should have been the hint - was it staged or rehearsed or what? The photographers could tell you and you'd have your answer. I don't know who shot the photos, I looked at the article maybe 1 minute total, but my experience with most of them is that they are friendly and honest.
Shack, I do reserve my own personal thoughts on the whole thing. Since I sort of make it my business to try not to care, I'm not going to strain a muscle to find out if my opinion is correct, however. :) Though I already sort of resent the publicity he's done a good job drumming up. I've actually had people friggin' CALL me to tell me about this as if I care.
It's kind of like the fad of the moment, isn't it? Schiavo, Britney's baby, etc. Someone's working hard to get us to talk about it - and it's hard to resist the push.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:28pm PT
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Shack
We had a guy here in Yosemite making outlandish claims a few years back about his so called climbing abilites and he was eventually exposed for being a total fraud.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:41pm PT
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I haven't seen any of the above posters climb anything either.rg
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:44pm PT
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Yeah, Werner. Boy! Was my face red!
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lucho
Gym climber
San Fransycho
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Dec 18, 2005 - 05:48pm PT
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Wheatus, if you claim to have seen or heard this stuff then why do you post your name anonymously? Just wondering?why not put your real name so people know who you are?
Bulgingpuke, I've seen tons of folks solo both ski tracks, thats nothing new. What KDA said.
Lastly who really gives a damn if the dudes soloing that hard. More power to him if he really is and if he's not then still who cares. It takes a special individual to solo stuff at your limits, so to the folks that dont beleive him its something you guys dont understand and will probably never understand.
And Werner who was the guy in the valley?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
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Lol Ouch ha ha ha not you!
People care about truth and integrity as those qualities transcend everything. In this day and age the truth is sometimes not what it says and very distorted.
Lucho, as far as the guy I was talking about, needs not to be revealed here.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Fransycho
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:09pm PT
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you're right werner, my bad. It would just be the start of some other sh#t talking topic
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
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Rock and Ice states that Reardon soloed most of the climb a second time, on September 24th, and was witnessed and photographed by Mark Niles. The article says
"Niles says he 'absolutely and unequivocally' saw Reardon solo the pitches, including the routes's sketchy, fifth picth, the 5.12 finger-tip traverse."
So here's my question - apparantly Reardon's honesty is in question and folks are looking for a trustworthy source - is Mark Niles that source? I don't know the scene, so forgive me if it's a stupid question.
GO
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:31pm PT
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Levy,
I don't think your post is at all slanderous. Rather it is very well thought out and stated. And good questions all.
The spin has not gone well for MR for a variety of reasons. Part of this stems from his own attitude. I have to say however that I have known Mike for a while and in my presence he has never been as over the top as some people (mostly anonymous) accuse him of here. In fact when I see him the conversation usually starts with him interviewing me on how I am doing. Whatever. Part of his problems also come from the fact that he has never been a valley regular and never in a postion to strut his stuff there in front of all the judges.. He comes from outside.
I do know people who have watched some of the ascents questioned above. I cannot speak for them. It will be up to them to step up and say what they saw. I do not even know if they look at this forum or care (some folks know better than to post on the net :-) Of course if it turns out this whole thing is a hoax, I for one will be completely floored.
The other day I was in Josh and ran into an old friend, a local well known climber and guide who has been known to tear it up himself. I asked him what he thought about Bachar's offer of free shoes for life to the person who could keep up with MR for a day. He said "No one can." He went on to descibe a day spent with MR.
Again, it'll be up to those who know to come out and say.
MR sure has stirred up the pot. But so far every time the dust has settled (sorry for the mixed metaphors) he has turned out to be for real..
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:42pm PT
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TR, I mean this in the nicest of all possible ways, so please try to have a sense of humor. But to be seriously bummed about a small plastic animal left as a joke? Jeez. Stick it in your pack and years from now you can say "Yeah, I picked this up where MR left it on the Palisades!" These things are harmless (and fun??)
As an edit let me add on that I understand why Levy cares, even if you don't. He's a top climber and whether or not MRs claims are real have a major effect on his sport...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 18, 2005 - 06:52pm PT
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TR,
I don't have a clue if you are a "top climber" or not 'till you tell me. I just know Levy and a lot of climbers like him. Among this group it does matter. Pleeze - I am not trying to get your goat. Just make a simple point.
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