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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 29, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
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During the mid sixties the Sierra Club began producing lavish bulletins and books in support of the broader goal of wilderness preservation. In addition to supporting a generation of superb outdoor photographers the club transformed our aesthetic appreciation of the unspoiled planet.
Bill Amborn was generous enough to send me his SCB collection so here is a gem from the October 1967 Bulletin. Superb Murray quote!
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Aug 29, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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Thanks Steve. He's probably my favorite mountaineering author. His exploits on Ben Nevis with MacAlpine are LEGEND.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Bill Murray was one of the most badass climbers ever to set hand to stone or axe to ice. Although I'm sure, if he can read these words from the other side of the veil, being called "badass" will make him uncomfortable.
Anyone who thinks of himself as a hard climber, or thinks his personal climbing heroes are the sh#t, should read "Mountaineering in Scotland." If you can wrap your mind around things that happened in an era other than your own, you're in for a treat. And an eye-opener.
Thanks to Steve for posting this.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Bump for real climbing.
It's great to read gear reviews, threads about politics, homage to boxers, and all that other sh#t, but this thread should stay on the front page for a while.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 29, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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An extraordinary man. His autobiography, "The Evidence of Things Not Seen", is well worth a read.
His wikipedia entry even includes a discussion of the Goethe 'quote'.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._H._Murray
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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A perfect pairing of image and prose...just exactly the device that the club was working to get people to think more expansively.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
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Thoughtful Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2010 - 08:13pm PT
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Peter Croft on Butterballs from Climbing #110.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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Bump for Magic and Mystery!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 12, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Love that photo and those guys - two of the most humble and endearing souls
I've ever met. Tom might have come up to my nose and I could have probably
picked him up by his collar but he probably could have done the same to me!
But why was it called the 'West Ridge'? Were they ever on the ridge except
at the bottom and the top? OK, I guess that amounts to maybe 1/2 the climb. :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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The high point of the recent AAC gala in Seattle was a conversation about commitment between Tom Hornbein and Steve House. It opened with the shot from the OP and lasted an hour. Very engaging glimpse into the issues and experiences of going beyond the point of no return on big mountains.
I recorded the evening and the talk should be available before too long through the AAC.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Thanks to a tip from Paul Sibley by way of Jack Durrance, part of this fine passage has made its way into the Frost book as an opening quote for the Spirit chapter.
"The mountains should not be our enemy...Mountaineering is not a battle, nor a state of war, for such things are mere fleeting episodes. Its foundation is always a pure love nature and of mountains, the sinking of self in their life, their being,their spirit. Modesty is the greatest virtue of the mountaineer."
It is only to the devout lover that the mountains open their whole riches and their inmost heart. Let him give his whole self in devotion, nothing doubting,and they will return love for love; and whom they love, they draw him up to themselves and make him great and rich.Happy is their favorite
When we enter their palaces let us do so as modest guests in the house of the great. In my whole life I have leaned upon them as upon some strong friend. They were so kind to me, in their gentle guidance bringing me comfort and restoration after grave earthly sorrow. Such is a mountaineer's life as I see it; such was the love and trust which I have turned to them; and thus, in the destined hour, I will bid my farewell to the everlasting hills."
Julius Kugy, Alpine Pilgrimage, 1934
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Mystical Bump
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perswig
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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"I have given up my old job of banking and have taken to writing as a profession."
And we thank you.
My copy of Mountaineering in Scotland/Undiscovered Scotland is pretty dog-eared.
Dale
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 17, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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Bruce, that's amazing stuff. Was your father from Scotland?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Nice Murrayabalia!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Was his family Scottish, hence schooling there?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 21, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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Make sure you read this one - its worth it!
Wow!
That is the best postcard ever. It's like three novels condensed onto a 4 x 6 inch piece of card.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
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Mar 21, 2012 - 04:08am PT
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Thank you for noting that pairing. That photo of the west ridge and quote really speak immense volumes. Good stuff!
Eric
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2012 - 10:13am PT
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I don't recognize any of the other names either.
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