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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Anybody still climb this excellent route? The last time I did, maybe 1982, the 1/4" bolts were in bad shape: hangers missing or bent flat, rust, some weird freeze-thaw thing that was squeezing the bolts out. Greg B., Roger B. any replacements you know about in the last 20+ years?
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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Mike
I've done it more recently than 82, and I always enjoyed it..runout but fun and not too hard..a great adventure as I recall...it's been at least a dozen years....I recall some old fixed stuff. Is that a Bachar route?
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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That's an old Higgins/Gerughty route from the early 70's. Fun in EB's! Haven't done it in a long time so no info on bolt replacement.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2010 - 12:40am PT
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Higgins and Gerughty put it up. Yes, it is a nice climb. Old-school 10a tuolumne face!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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August of 1970, in fact. I would hope that it has replaced bolts. Great route. Two great climbers on the FA. Tom or Tom did most of the new routes on Pennyroyal Arches. Magical hike up to the base with all the flowers.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:58am PT
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Yep, bolts replaced. In 2002 I replaced the first 2 pitches. Someone had added a couple newer bolts to back up smashed old bolts - one at the first belay, one doubled pro bolt. But even one of those newer 3/8" bolts had been smashed flat. In any case, I replaced the 3-bolt first belay with 2 good bolts, the first and third pro bolts one-for-one, and the second pro bolt (doubled) with a single good bolt. Didn't get to the 3rd pitch, but Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins got that in 2006.
Actually the ASCA website is incomplete on this, it looks like when Clint & Bruce replaced the 3rd pitch the earlier info got deleted.
It definitely sees traffic, some friends did it a couple weeks ago, and I think that was their 2nd or 3rd trip in the last few years. It sees a lot of repeat traffic - quality!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Such a fine route.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Thanks Clint and Greg for the news and the good work! Nice shots Jerry. The difficulties have eased when you get to the crack at the top.
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adam d
climber
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Aug 12, 2010 - 01:19am PT
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threads like this -> my tick list
1 more week -> delightful
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 12, 2010 - 02:06am PT
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Tom or Tom did most of the new routes on Pennyroyal Arches.
Don't forget Bob Kamps, He did some routes there too!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 12, 2010 - 03:21am PT
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I love that climb though I did it prior to the update on the bolts (thanks for the effort there guys!)...gonna have to go back now.
Jerry as always, sweet images!
Love the polish and it really comes through on those shots.
Cheers,
DD
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 03:43am PT
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 12, 2010 - 04:10am PT
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Ahhh the memories. Such a great route, think I did it in '88 and time to repeat.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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Yes it gets done! At least one party last weekend and we did it on Tuesday. Excellent route, not really all that run out either. Huge thanks for the bolt replacements. Other routes on this same facet are probably excellent too. Does anyone know where you get to if you rap off the large tree right next to the end of the last pitch? It seems that you'd just barely reach the bolt anchor on the face (Multiplication?), just left of the last belay of the Vision (in the crack). Then, can you reach the first Vision belay (with rings - thanks again, guys) in 60m? That would be a much better descent than the other rap descent to the west of the 5.7 climbs.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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Gerry, this is a stunnig picture. Such a nice place and pretty rock. Great route.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Aug 12, 2010 - 11:47am PT
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repost of scanned slide from the mid-1980s...what a fine route.
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Aug 13, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Climbed The Vision one summer afternoon back in '77. Four of us from the eastside, two ropes of two. So much fun. I got to lead the crux(third pitch)since my partner Kevin L. had already lead it the previous summer. The crux being some thin face crimping and smearing to a delicate move/step up to reach the crack right above where Bruce H. is drilling(in CC's photo). You can lock one finger and place a wired stopper(that's what it took back then)to protect the next 10-15 ft. to the belay ledge. Art H./Rick L. were right behind us on the second rope, smiling and laughing the whole way...
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
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Thanks Roger!
Bring a jacket on this route, as the wind can really get whipping.
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