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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Anyone know the top ten FAists?
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WandaFuca
Social climber
From the gettin place
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Jul 27, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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et al
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Interesting previous thread. Let me pose a more specific question: Who where the top FAists as of July 1968?
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Jul 27, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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RE: thread title, I believe Tucker has it far and away.
Edit: number of routes.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 27, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
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Number of pitches, or number of routes?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jul 27, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
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I bet if you count pitches, and a single 20 pitch climb is a hell of a lot more engaging than 20 short single pitches, it's Royal Robbins.
MH and I think alike edit!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 27, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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It is actually Sean Jones, Pilgrims. over 90. (Edit) At least that is what I have been told many times and it is stated in DR's writing a few times as well. With the last written full guide book 12 years old now and the Yosemite Spreadsheet not really updated, I don't know.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Jul 27, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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I guess I am confused, Peter - it shows above that Tucker had over 80 just in 1989, with 144 total?
Thanks for any clarification,
Erik
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 27, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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152 FA/FFAs for Tucker Tech, by my count.
I don't have an accurate number for Sean Jones, because many of his routes are not published yet.
I have a spreadsheet which is by FA/FFA person, instead of by route, which may be useful for answering this type of question:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSFAP.xls
It could be sorted by date, truncated above July 1968, then resorted by person's name, if you really want a list as of that date.
Note: when linking to my site, you can use %7E instead of ~ because supertopo does not currently parse URLs with ~ very well.
For fun, I once made a "points" system for ranking climbs, where the number of pitches, max rating, and stars factor into the points for each route. One problem with that system is that it does not count the old rating at the time the route was established, so it gives folks high points for hard long routes that they didn't climb free.
Here's the list. Just for fun; not all people with an FA are included.
[I know the formula for points is messed up if my name is that high, as I have a large number of "junk" routes in the list]
If you look at average points per route, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden are way up high.
First Ascent Totals by Person
Points # of Routes # Pitches Ave.Points Name
5674 89 506 63.8 Jim Bridwell
4860 40 381 121.5 Royal Robbins
3674 74 287 49.6 Walt Shipley
3313 29 263 114.2 Yvon Chouinard
3246 72 402 45.1 Eric Kohl
3144 41 201 76.7 Ron Kauk
3036 39 227 77.8 Frank Sacherer
2958 50 258 59.2 Chuck Pratt
2954 34 249 86.9 Warren Harding
2872 58 177 49.5 Kevin Worrall
2658 25 145 106.3 John Long
2629 46 179 57.2 Ray Jardine
2616 152 236 17.2 Tucker Tech
2505 35 216 71.6 Dale Bard
2277 26 144 87.6 Scott Cosgrove
2196 43 149 51.1 Mark Chapman
2117 25 239 84.7 Charlie Porter
1808 65 136 27.8 Rick Cashner
1715 52 144 33.0 Clint Cummins
1708 29 92 58.9 John Bachar
1681 36 93 46.7 Bruce Morris
1666 5 132 333.2 Tommy Caldwell
1657 44 168 37.7 Eric Gabel
1652 28 121 59.0 Sean Jones
1643 29 92 56.7 George Meyers
1587 21 147 75.6 Tom Frost
1585 39 109 40.6 Werner Braun
1494 48 109 31.1 Kevin Fosburg
1426 26 122 54.8 Galen Rowell
1420 23 119 61.7 Chris Fredericks
1414 20 132 70.7 John Middendorf
1412 80 128 17.6 Don Reid
1350 28 81 48.2 Al Swanson
1343 23 102 58.4 Bill Price
1315 49 138 26.8 Bob Steed
1256 17 95 73.9 Dan Dingle
1255 18 98 69.7 Glen Denny
1248 12 113 104.0 Layton Kor
1223 31 116 39.5 Bob Kamps
1223 26 97 47.0 Mark Powell
1182 43 91 27.5 Dimitri Barton
1170 24 89 48.8 Steve Roper
1146 22 64 52.1 Dave Schultz
1127 40 111 28.2 Rick Sylvester
1101 32 64 34.4 Chris Cantwell
1075 27 65 39.8 Ed Barry
1070 51 94 21.0 Dan McDevitt
953 11 53 86.6 Roger Breedlove
942 30 70 31.4 Mark Klemens
933 47 80 19.9 Cade Lloyd
928 23 63 40.3 Kurt Smith
886 22 73 40.3 Wally Reed
815 32 73 25.5 Ken Yager
803 14 51 57.4 Joel Ager
787 28 66 28.1 Ron Skelton
782 45 58 17.4 Ken Ariza
769 45 68 17.1 Jerry Anderson
704 31 57 22.7 Sue McDevitt
620 18 44 34.4 Jim Donini
608 31 53 19.6 Pete Takeda
559 18 55 31.1 Ed Hartouni
482 13 29 37.1 Chris Falkenstein
471 31 39 15.2 Grant Hiskes
464 18 34 25.8 Barry Bates
456 9 46 50.7 Bev Johnson
439 3 42 146.3 Beth Rodden
435 9 49 48.3 Jim Pettigrew
427 11 26 38.8 John Yablonski
419 11 38 38.1 Tom Higgins
395 10 42 39.5 Linda Jarit
392 10 23 39.2 Peter Croft
347 20 26 17.4 Lynnea Anderson
326 11 22 29.6 Loyd Price
307 16 34 19.2 Jeff Scheuerell
296 19 30 15.6 Norman Boles
296 11 33 26.9 David Whitelaw
225 10 18 22.5 Peter Haan
200 15 17 13.3 Ray Olson
166 10 11 16.6 Joe Hedge
148 6 17 24.7 Erin Takagishi
76 6 7 12.7 Brad Young
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jul 27, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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i was there when tucker broke it to sean that he had put up 170 or whatever it is first ascents in the valley. it was right after dr had published that sean had the most at 90. i think he was slightly crestfallen, but he was back to his upbeat self in a second. the thing is there aren't many of those tucker routes that are worth repeating...they do have some of the most offensive names in the guidebook.
i think a better question is who has the most mega classics. the point system is interesting...as ocd as it is.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Jul 27, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
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The pitch breakdown would be interesting, as well. It seems like each pitch has it's own merit as an individual ascent (not saying each pitch of a long route deserves it's own FA status) since there are so many very long, multiple-pitch climbs.
Now that is a job for the truly obsessive - won't call it a disorder, cuz all things climbing-related are IN ORDER!
Thanks for the interesting info, Clint and TinkerB
Erik
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 28, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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During the golden era, I think that Pratt had the longest FA or FFA list with Robbins on his heels. That is my recollection. Porting to list!
Pratt also got the Cathedral Slam with an FA or FFA on all five summits!
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jul 28, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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Clint - Impressive list!!!
Top notch folks here at the taco stand!!!
That's all I'm sayin'
1182 43 91 27.5 Dimitri Barton
So all those stories I heard him sayin in the bar are true!!!
Bad...
Ass!!!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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What about most Grade V/VI routes?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I deleted the V and VI grades from my version of the database, but I think Ed still has them in his. I could answer it for routes over x number of pitches (although some of the old routes don't have a pitch count in the database).
Here's a related question - number of FAs/FFAs on El Cap, not counting base routes, but counting some routes/variations which are not independent the whole way. Here's a list of folks with more than 3 El Cap FAs/FFAs (from when this question came up on March 17):
5 John Barbella
5 Dale Bard
4 Steve Bosque
10 Jim Bridwell
5 Hugh Burton
5 Tommy Caldwell
4 Yvon Chouinard
4 Charles Cole
4 Jose Luis Gallego
6 Steve Gerberding
6 Steve Grossman
6 Alex Huber
4 Thomas Huber
7 Eric Kohl
8 Charlie Porter
4 Bill Price
I think that Eric Kohl probably has the most V/VI FAs, and Bridwell has quite a few as well.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Clint, your list doesn't mention Royal. He had at least four, if you count the first solo.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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There are several other very good climbers with 3, too. I don't count his solo as an FA.
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