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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
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Having just done Speed of Life for the first time- it doesn't seem like much of a contest. Blues Riff is classic to be sure, but the junky first pitch as compared to a pristine first pitch of SOL... By Hook or By Crook- also very classic, but not near as inspiring. Any other nominations?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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Death Crack
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 22, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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uhhhhh......Bachar Yerian......*
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 22, 2010 - 02:24am PT
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Oz/gram/hobbit is 5.10
shipoopi is 5.12
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 22, 2010 - 02:28am PT
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Isn't the gram like 5.10 HARD though...?
Go climb some relic aid line on Fairview. Silly questions....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 03:47am PT
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Aldude has it right - B-Y by a mile.
Here's a list to check? :-)
52. Lord Caffeine 5.10d/5.11a *
70. Tideline 5.10d/5.11a *
87. Sixty Nine 5.10+/5.11-
88. Moaner 5.10+/5.11a
89. Miller Time 5.10+/5.11a
24. Werewolf Semen & Blood 5.11a
28. Tender Manhood 5.11-
30. Hokey Pokey 5.11a
46. Air Cooled Unit (Warning Flare) 5.11a *
91. The Ring Eye 5.11a
107. Pinch a Loaf 5.11a
110. Black Angel 5.11a
114. The Ledge 5.11a
138. Foolish Pleasures 5.11a R
159. Rock Lobster var. 5.11a
165. Sausalito Archie's Overhang 5.11a
173. Bushes and Buckets 5.11a
175. Panning for Nuggets 5.10d/5.11b *
188. Ground Out 5.11a
197. Bastard from the Bush 5.11a
207. The Block Direct 5.11a
210. Push-Push 5.11a
219. Compared to What 5.11a
238. Get Sick 5.11a
255. Blackout 5.11a
264. Handbook 5.11a *
275. Barbary Coast 5.11a
302. Bearded Clam 5.11a
345. Pencilitits 5.11a
347. Pencil-Necked Geek 5.11a
357. Orange Plasma 5.11a *
358. Plausible Deniability 5.11a
362. Rover Takes Over 5.11a
367. One-Arm Bandit 5.11a
368. Pot Luck 5.11a tr
396. Poodle Boy 5.11a
399. Thingamajig 5.11a
402. Whatzisface 5.11a
423. The Cutting Edge 5.11a
433. Willie's Hand Jive 5.11a
506. Fast Track 5.11a
526. Heart of Toad 5.11a *
602. Sunstroke 5.11a
636. Friends in High Places 5.11a
640. Virgin Killer 5.11a
647. White Line Fever 5.11a
649. The Joystick 5.11a
656. Borderline 5.11a PG
677. 15 Seconds of Fame 5.11a
684. The Winery 5.11a
697. Wrinkle in Time 5.11a
722. Angelic Upstart 5.11a
729. Unnatural Act 5.11a
734. Soft White Underbelly 5.11a
765. Resisting Arrest 5.11a
15. Yuppie Sophistry 5.11b
43. Red Tide 5.11b
71. Live Wire 5.11b
77. Body Language 5.11b
100. Lizard Lips 5.11b tr
147. Immaculate Deception 5.11b
162. No Rock Nazis 5.11b
163. By Hook or By Crook 5.11b *
166. Third World 5.11b
189. Double Eagle 5.11b R
190. Paris is Burning 5.11b
191. Go for the Gold 5.11b
193. Dirty Dream 5.11b
201. Apex Predator 5.11b
212. Universal Corner 5.11b
276. Murder by Numbers 5.11b
392. Susie Q 5.11b
479. Speed of Life 5.11b *
500. Strike it Rich 5.11b
505. Math of the Pastor 5.11b
514. Inevitable Conclusions 5.11b
523. Bronco Buster var. 5.11a/c
528. Voyager 5.11b A0
530. Mr. Kamps 5.11b
609. Whip It 5.11b R
612. Freedom of Choice 5.11b
621. Scorpion 5.11b *
663. P___ 5.11b
668. Shambles 5.10d or 5.11b
678. Bigtime 5.11b
688. Guy Takes a Booma Gutsa 5.10b/c or 5.11b
699. The Pinhead 5.11b R
738. Fort Knox 5.11b
739. Golden Bars 5.11b *
775. Chimbote 5.11b *
104. Penguin Cafe 5.11
184. Tourist Trap 5.11
227. Workout Man 5.11 tr
248. Start Bouldering 5.11
256. Countdown 5.11
270. Low Budget 5.11
289. The Flash 5.11
318. Sunnyside Down 5.11
336. Tips Ahoy 5.11
400. Unnamed 5.11?
404. The Flapper 5.11
405. Gizmo 5.11?
473. Mt. Conness: Harding Route 5.10c or 5.11
494. Obscure Destiny 5.11
508. Defenders of the Faith 5.11
529. Sorcerer's Apprentice 5.11 *
593. Mesmerized 5.11
639. Lost in Face 5.11
642. No Bones 5.11
672. Bachar-Yerian 5.11b/c R *
38. Backbreaker 5.11c
49. Easy Money 5.11c
73. Ornithology 5.11c
99. Sometimes a Great Notion 5.11c tr
143. Dreams 5.11c *
146. Arch Rival 5.11c
172. Corn Hole 5.11c R
181. Scruffy Underbelly 5.11c tr
187. Paiste Formula 5.11c
214. Blues Riff 5.11c *
239. Steep Thrills 5.11c
268. Johnny Rock 5.11c
269. Motor Home for Midgets 5.11c
277. Tin Pan Alley 5.11c R
305. Into the Void 5.11c *
373. Jiffy Pop 5.11c
376. Le Papillon 5.11c
382. A Boy and His Dog 5.11c
385. Grandslam 5.11c
394. Black & White & Red All Over 5.11c
407. Mixed Nuts 5.11c tr
471. Do or Fly 5.11c
509. Burning Down the House 5.11c R *
516. Expose' 5.11c
521. Piece de Resistance 5.11c R
524. Mr. Toad's Wild Ride 5.11c
581. Easy Wind 5.11c *
584. Missing Link 5.11c
608. Suicide Solution 5.11c R *
625. Black Magic 5.11c R
626. Omega Race 5.11c *
627. Slipstream 5.11c
657. Follow Your Heart 5.11c R
661. Full House 5.11c
670. Shipoopi! 5.11c * or 5.12a *
671. Slider-Banger 5.11c PG
680. Bachar Approach 5.11c
695. Swiss Orange Chip 5.11c R *
696. Alien 5.11c R
731. Pirouette Roof 5.11c
679. Clevenger-Fiddler 5.11c/d
14. Jewel-Encrusted Bombilla 5.11+ pr.
23. Mod Pod 5.11+
44. Hot Box 5.11d
106. Unknown 5.11d tr
112. Death Crack 5.11d *
192. Realm of the Absurd 5.11d
231. Hurricane Betsy 5.11d
254. Cheat Stone 5.11+
343. Bruce Proof Roof 5.11+
395. pr. 5.11d
429. Never Give up the Ship 5.11d
470. Horseshoes and Hand Grenades 5.11d
622. Wailing Wall 5.11d
635. Centinela 5.11d
643. Virgin Testimony 5.11+
648. Dik Me a Dog 5.11d
650. Pilot's License 5.11d
683. Pleasures of Purplepoint 5.11d
689. Swinger 5.11+ R *
752. Meltdown 5.11d
773. Fierce Tiger on Rock 5.11d
781. Escape From Freedom 5.11d A1
47. Techno-Pig 5.11d/5.12a
583. Hysteria 5.11d/5.12a
652. The SS 5.11d/5.12a R
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 22, 2010 - 04:26am PT
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clint- what is that every 5.11 in TM? nice
hard 10d?
WTF is that?
once a route has been established and the grade is there, and is widely known, this whole idea of upgrading or downgrading is just bullsh#t. well, maybe you can downgrade if a route doesn't deserve a difficult rating, but if so, serenity would have been 10c a long time ago!
the perfect example is waverly wafer, that route is 10c
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Cookie-Cliff-Waverly-Wafer
wtf does this mean? "the rating has recently changed? it "changed" when ST put out a book with the 11A rating, before that the only other prominent YV guide had 10C as the rating, duh...
now gram is "hard 10d"? whatever, it's 510+, it's not 5.11, it's definately not harder than (or even as hard as) some better known "hard 5.10d" lines (lord cafine? hello!). it could have had another rating, but it does not- so sayeth the FA party, and so sayeth enough time for the rating to become established, case closed.
are there sand bagged routes? maybe there are. so what? sandbagging has a rich tradition, with it's many sources and motivations.
you might as well chisel a hold or placement as refine a rating because you felt sand-bagged, the rating becomes part of the route, and that is that. everything after that is just dudes being pussies, seriously. wtf does the rating have to do with it anyway? it's a climb, it has a rating. you may agree, you may not agree. whatever. move along...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2010 - 09:25am PT
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Now there's a hit list!
Waverly wafer, .10b/vedauwoo .9+
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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Here is the consequence of looking at ST before morning tea-
you look at the title and think someone wants a list of the top eleven routes in TM
you don't question why they want a list of the top eleven routes and not the top ten routes (kind of like the Spinal Tap volume control knob?)
you see Clint's list and think it's awfully uncharacteristic of him to post a list of so many routes when the person just wanted a list of eleven.
You wonder why gems like Lucky Streaks and South Crack etc aren't on the list.
Then It finally dawns on you...DUH!
Time to go have tea.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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I thought it was the top eleven, too....
Should be 'Best .11' if it refers to the rating.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 22, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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Phat Slice 5.12a
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
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Jul 22, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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lord caffine and orange plasma....pretty good stuff
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jul 22, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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For an easy approach (and a climb that can be TR), I've always been surprised that Tideline hasn't gotten more attention/discussion (at least among the beer discussions I've been in...) for a fun Tuolumne 5.11.
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Friend
climber
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Jul 22, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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I go back and forth between Blues Riff and Speed of Life, but I think Blues Riff is sliiiiiiiiightly more my favorite cause of position and exposure.
How about Handbook? I liked that one.
Lord caffeine/tideline are kind of on the short side wouldn't you say?
By hook or by crook, I expected more crack climbing. But if you like that real technical stuff I could see it being high on your list.
Any stories about Death Crack? Always wanted to try that but haven't had the cojones.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jul 22, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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Tideline is not a long climb, but is has a lot of variety and a good sustain, if my fading memory doesn't let me down again, I don't know if it has any move below 5.10 on it.
Since I usually only do the first pitch, I think of Handbook as a 5.10. And I would think the actual climbing on Handbook is less than Tideline, but that one has also been a while...
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
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Handbook is exceptionally good route, and it in 5.11 category as it rated, and longer and harder than Tideline
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Death Crack is quality!. It also has convenient TR anchors. I led it onsight and have felt good to go on the TR ever isnce.
But Climb it, don't lieback it!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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i don't see heart of stone being mentioned. a bit out of my league, but it always seemed a classic. anyone done it?
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Clint- your post is of the kind that makes this site worth it
Thanks to everyone else too- Tideline and Black Angel are stellar climbs- but better than sol or blues? I would need a detailed argument....
I thought the position on sol was pretty darn good when compared to blues riff- enough for me to call it a tie and not enter it into my current bias for sol, but I see how a preference could swing the whole thing since they both are so good
Death Crack and Handbook- I'm putting these at the top of my list for next meadows trip
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