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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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On September 13, 1960 Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost completed the second ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in seven days of climbing. Royal reflected later that the experience was "the most magnificent and complete adventure of our lives."
The first ascent of the Nose was a singular event with respect to the tactics, constraints and variety of players involved. The prospect of repeating the route in a continuous push still held considerable unknown and the team prepared well.
Royal promptly wrote an account of their grand adventure for the December, 1960 issue of the Sierra Club Bulletin. Some of the images suffer for the scanning and I will try to replace and add to them as this thread progresses. My working set of Frost images is out of my hands at the moment but as his work is everywhere, I'll do my best!
Plans are in the works to gather in celebration for this 50th anniversary sometime in October. Tom, Joe and Royal are psyched up for the event by all accounts so this should be big fun. Tom got his start as a photographer during this climb when the Dolt showed him how to use his Leica and then loaned it to Tom! I think that Bill was deeply curious about the character of the beautiful upper dihedral that he never touched once Mark Powell injured his ankle and the Dolt spooked and split!
Loads of history in and around this particular ascent that make it stand apart from other El Cap routes and repeats. More on that front as it flows along...
The sortout. Frost photo.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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What's with the eye patch? It seems I have seen shots taken during the same day and never once seen the eye patch!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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On October 23,there will be a presentation by Royal, Tom and Joe about this very climb. It will be at the East Auditorium in Yosemite Valley. Stay tuned.
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Very nice! I wonder if the commemoration could be somehow part of the FaceLift, or if at least there could be a presentation about the climb one night?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
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This should be a stand alone event even if it is promoted at the Facelift.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
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That's the explanation...a hot chunk of chromoly.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So much for the 'pirate' theory.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Skully, M.H. said 'Pirate' AARRGG
What a great article, thanks Steve!
Thor
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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White cotton balls just not quite sinister enough for a proper pirate! Though, if anyone from the Golden Age convincingly looked the part of a freebooter, that would have been Chuck. Harrrr! Shiver me belayer!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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When is the anniversary of the third ascent?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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I am trying to recall who did the third. I think that Gary Colliver was in on it but I can't find a citation. Anyone? Not that Jim is really looking for an answer...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Late May of 63 in three and a half days! Smokin' fast!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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Nose Bump!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 30, 1963 3rd ascent: Kor, Roper and Denny
June 1965 4th ascent:
Evans, Colliver and McCracken
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Mimi
climber
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You coming to this one, Guido?!?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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I'll be sorry to miss this one as well as so many others...
However, I'm planning to be in N. CA during the last 2 weeks of August, and want to make a pilgrammage to Yosemite/Tuolume, hopefully with or meet Guido, Lauria, Hennek, McLean, Cohen, Dozier, and others from that era who may be in the area then. Please let me know if you'll be around.
Ken
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Shirley
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Wow! Just a couple months before I was born, and I thought I was old! God bless these pioneers of the vertical...Such awesome risks assumed as well for these men!!
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