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Ranger Dan
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Yosemite Climbers-
Hi all. My name is Danny Schaible and I am a Historical Landscape Architect at Yosemite. This summer, I will be doing research towards possibly nominating the Half Dome cables to the National Register of Historic Places (similar to the status that Camp 4 has).
I am writing to see if any of you have come across any of George Anderson's original drill holes left over from his 1875 ascent of Half Dome. In my limited research so far I have not found any information as to where these original drills holes would have been located. Indeed, it is possible that they mirror the present alignment of the Half Dome cables. However, if any of you have seen evidence of a string of drill holes (he evidently used roughly 40 hand-drilled eye-bolts on his way to the top) located on other sections of Half Dome, please let me know. The drill holes would have been roughly 1/2 inch in diameter by 6 inches deep.
Thanks for your time and please let me know if you have any information on the location of these drill holes.
Danny Schaible
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
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I was always under the impression that the Park Service was thinking of getting rid of the cables someday. Like the firefall, a remnant of a past era.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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This might help, if you haven't seen it already:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Egalic/history/halfdome/
"Mr. Anderson began with Conway's old rope, part of which still remains in place, and resolutely drilled his way to the top, inserting eyebolts five or six feet apart, and making his rope fast to each in succession, resting his foot on the last bolt while he drilled for the next above. Occasionally some irregularity in the curve or slight foothold would enable him to climb fifteen or twenty feet independently of the rope, which he would pass and begin drilling again, the whole being accomplished in a few days."
Maybe you can find this one? Phimister Proctor, 1884
The cables in 1919 (note stairway in steep section), and 2002 (same location)
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
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uh... does that mean if the are granted the nomination they can never be taken down?
Good luck with your effort.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
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As late as the 1870s, Half Dome was declared "perfectly inaccessible".
This would be cool to find the drill holes...
Did it barefoot!!!!
I cannot do that
Good luck Dan
On a side note...
Is there a trail around the base of Half Dome? Or a walkway of any kind?
Never been out there...
I imagine there is..
Just would like to know from someone who knows
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john hansen
climber
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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Maybe that little overhang is the clue. Is there a feature that looks like that near the cables, or on a logical line close by?
The artist may have been copying real life or it could be made up..
Anybody got a pic of that face?
There could be an obvious match.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:01am PT
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1/2 by 6 inches deep?
Holy drill blisters Batman!
How long would it take to drill that hole??
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john hansen
climber
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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That little overhang to the left of the cables about half way up in both those pictures, looks a bit like the drawing that Clint posted.
I don't see many other right angles like that.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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Tami, you're on a roll tonight ;0
Not sure where they're at, but count me in for a reconnecense of the face until they're found. Would be pretty cool to see one of the holes if not climb the origional route with modern gear.
I love history.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 24, 2010 - 08:42am PT
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Not sure where they're at, but count me in for a reconnecense of the face until they're found.
OK, I know its just the taco and all, and who needs the spelling police,.... but,....
"reconnecense"?
What is that? Some kind of incense?
LOL
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 24, 2010 - 08:54am PT
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hey there all, say.... i was really impressed when i first read about george anderson's ascent...
thanks to supertopo, or i'd most likely never have known... :)
thanks for the information share,
god bless... hope you get to find and enjoy seeing the drill holes...
:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:26am PT
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Dan- Contact Ken at the YCA. He actually has an Anderson bolt and could clue you in about the size hole that you are looking for which would be your start. Many of the original bolts were likely broken off by snow loading or subsequent "improvements".
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:36am PT
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I talked to Dan yesterday and suggested that he might be able to get more information by posting here. The holes are probably 5/8" by 3"-3 1/2".
Ken
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 24, 2010 - 10:40am PT
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Whoa, it's too cool to even just look at that thing!
The freekin' history is just oozing off of it.
Thanks Ken.
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Ranger Dan
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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WOW!!!!!
You guys are AWESOME!
I really appreciate the response. Definitely a trove of information.
Larry: I don't think the NPS is thinking about getting rid of the cables. They are looking to implement some sort of managment plan due to the recent fatalities associated with the cables. A NR nomination, should it be accepted, would help bolster the argument for preservation.
Clint: Thanks for the Stanford History link. I had not seen it yet. I will definitely go buy a copy of Jack London's Dutch Courage! Those before and after pics are great too!
Mighty Hiker: Thanks for those links to the past threads! Very useful stuff in there.
Ken: Thanks for the pic of the eyebolt! Could I include this shot in the draft National Register nomination if I give YCA credit? And most of all, thanks for the tip on posting my question on Supertopo!
And lastly, an FYI: Someone sent me an email saying they know the route the George Anderson took. I wont name him yet since he did not repond to the thread, but he says he knows the route. I will keep everyone posted as I conduct my research. My first trip up there will be next week, so expect pictures shortly...
Thanks for all your help-
Danny
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Jun 24, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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X-rez pictures might be useful. There could be rust streaks or streaks
of lichen inhibition from the broken bolts.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Great project Dan, good luck!!
It makes me laugh when climbers say the cables should be removed. Yeah let's remove something that thousands upons thousands of people have enjoyed of one of the highlights of their lives. Then let's remove every single bolt in Yosemite so we're not being hypocritical, right??? Appreciation of the first direct aid ascent in Yosemite, bah who needs it!
reconnecense -noun
quick, intuitive knowledge of route finding
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Ranger Dan
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Correction:
As a part of the mandatory "range or alternatives" that must be considered when doing an Environmental Assessment (EA) one alternative that will likely be explored will be the removal of the Half Dome cables. Listing the cables on the National Register of Historic Places would not preclude this outcome, but the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA) would require additional mitigations if this is the direction that the park chooses to go.
However, I should preface all of this by saying that it is very early in the EA process and the park is far from reaching a decision. One very important component of the EA process is "public scoping" which is the public's chance to weigh in on management issues. In fact, we are in the middle of public scoping for the Half Dome Trail Stewardship EA right now. Based on the level of interest that my post generated, I bet that many supertopo forum users would like to have their voice heard in regards to this plan:
Yosemite National Park Extends Public Scoping Period Regarding Visitor Use on Trails Leading to Half Dome and the Half Dome Cables
Yosemite National Park announces the extension of the public scoping period for visitor use on the trail leading to Half Dome and the Half Dome cables. The scoping period has been extended to July 6, 2010. The public is invited to submit written ideas regarding a long term plan for visitor use on the Half Dome cables. The purpose of the plan will be to provide for the long-term stewardship of Half Dome in a manner that is consistent with the 1964 Wilderness Act and the National Park Service Organic Act.
An interim program is currently in place for the 2010 and 2011 summer season that requires a permit to ascend the Half Dome cables on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. Yosemite National Park will be monitoring visitor use on the Half Dome cables, as well as the Mist Trail and portions of the John Muir Trail leading up to Half Dome, in order to assess the effectiveness of the interim program.
Specifically, the plan will:
 Institute appropriate management that will protect and enhance the natural and cultural environment of the area around Half Dome
Establish appropriate conditions along the trails leading up to the Half Dome cables
Public participation is integral for the success of this plan. To submit comments on this topic, the public can contact the park by the following means:
Mail: Superintendent
Attn: Half Dome Trail Stewardship Plan
P.O. Box 577
Yosemite, CA 95389
Fax: 209-379-1294
Visit the park website and link to PEPC website: http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/hdp_comment.htm
To find out more about the Half Dome Trail Stewardship Plan please visit http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/planning.htm .
Again, thanks for all of your help and interest. I just got back from two days of Half Dome field work a few hours ago and should have my pics (and preliminary findings) posted early next week.
Danny
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jstan
climber
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3 to 3 1/2 inches.
Tami got it right again.
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