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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Hi, Paul Humphrey here.
Curious as to how many Supertopo readers are "Former" Humboldt, Ca climbers. What's your names, when were you there?
I lived, climbed and put up routes in Humboldt from 1990-2008. I just got back from a trip to the Trinity Aretes, So-So- grotto, and other areas.
So where have you gone, humboldt's long lost climbing friends?
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 22, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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what's up Paul...
Doug
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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Jun 22, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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I went climbing the first time in 1981 under the direction of Dave Zander at Moonstone Beach. Steve Gerberding and Dave Bengston also climbed with Dave. Dave B. graduated from Humboldt State. I only lived there a year before transferring to Fresno State. It was closer to bigger rocks.
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Strongerdog
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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I was at HSU with the infamous Darly Cramer in somewhere around 1986/7. Rained every day that winter. I rowed crew to keep my mind off the rain and the ugly women. Bailed to the UW the next year. I hear the rain is still as bad - not so sure about the women.
Strong
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 23, 2010 - 08:35am PT
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it sure felt like the bouldering at black sands beach was pretty personal during the watergate era.
think blue suede boots and halibut hat. summer job: launched boats out of shelter cove those years.
never the luxury of a spotter, but was there ever a better landing surface? ... like a splashdown into the chiclet pit!
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That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!
Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
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Jun 23, 2010 - 09:18am PT
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Hey Paul,
Fred Berman here. I just climbed with Rich Ludwig in Indian Creek. I'll post a trip report soon.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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Yeah man! '81 - '91
I got schooled in Humboldt. You really had to be dedicated to climbing, but there was enough to keep you in shape.
I used to climb with this guy named Darrel Cramer (?) Wayne (?), and some other older guy who would free solo the Urchin route on Karen rock (5.10).
Later on I climbed a lot with Tim Wilhelmi (what ever became of him?). Mark Petrolingo ("Petch") was there too in the early 90's. Us three developed a crag at Patricks Point and started putting up routes at footsteps rocks, too.
I think Tim and I did the first ascent of "Dream Theme" at Karen, which was originally called the Web Wall. That was around '86, or so . . . Tim eventually lead that thing on sketchy gear!
Lots of fond memories of Friday evening climbing sessions at Moonstone. It was a real cool scene.
Yeah Fred, post that TR!!!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 23, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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I went to school there from '82-'85. Mostly climbed at Moonstone Beach, Patrick Point, and Castle Crags / Shasta when not going to the Valley. Fun times.........
Paul
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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Hey Paul. It's Bryan Kay here... I climbed out there in the early '90 with Petch, Wilhelmi, yourself and the rest of the Humboldt Stone Ascentionists. I moved away in '94. I had exhausted just about every job in Trinidad where I was living, and done just about all the routes I was going to do on the beaches... Got a spot on the YOSAR and the rest is history. Lot's of climbing and FA's in Yosemite...Now, I'm living in the house I bought outside Yosemite and enjoying time my family. C'mon out, You've got a place to stay! It would be good to catch up and find out what's been going on throughout the years... and, man, where did all those years go?
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mark fishbein
Sport climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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I climbed in Humboldt area during the mid 1980"s with Partner Doug La Farge, wife Shelley, Tim Wilhelmi. Rich Ludwig, Fred Berman, Sharron Urquart, Lori ? and Terry Norman. Doug and I established some short hard (at the time ) routes on Moonstone / Lufenholdtz PO wall areas. Trinity trips and castle crags---we looked to do new good routes wherever we could find them ---lots of solos at Karens Rock and full traverse. Smith rock trips during the development period of Smith. Lots of J tree trips and Seirra trips. Lycra and sport climbing were like a new date then....hotter than H@#l At the time we were all poor college students havin lots of fun!! Good to hear climbing is alive and well in the Humboldt area ---thank you all --climbing is a good life!!!! ---Dr. Fishbein
PS matias? was there and Bengston had just left to Tuolome
We are now in Glenwood Springs<colorado and have 2 young adult boys (Scott and Dan) Climb infrequently but stay in the mix-----
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Mark!!!!!!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Aug 22, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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Woah! Mark!
Crazy man, those were the days. I wonder if they still have that traverse down there with the handball courts?
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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Joto = Fred = Joto ;-)
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2010 - 01:05am PT
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Wow, good to see more posts on this one.
The traverse wall was torn down along with the courts. The building is remodeled with a cool climbing wall that only students can easily use.
Myself and Eric Chemello, Adam Wanden, Tom Ogden, Cedar Wright, Sean Leary and others continued the new routing through the 90s and early oughts.
Any detailed history would be apreciated from the green fog of time as far as who did what when and where in tne past. I will be in Indian Creek at Sushi Fest. Updates to climbing history are greatly needed when it comes to Humboldt.
C-ya, Paul Humphrey
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Robb
Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
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Aug 23, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Any of you ever climb on the cliffs back east of the Kneeland road?
JACKS!!!
Class of '97
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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Miss the traverse wall big time. open 24/7 to anybody. Spent many hours there, even after gigs working off a little steam at 3am. The new climbing wall maybe cool but isn't open to me...
To all of you movers and shakers of the Humboldt traverse wall, a belated and hearty thank you for all the work you all put into creating the traverse wall from its humble beginnings to the full length of the hallway to the overhang/crack structure. It was incredible! I probably saw some of you monkeys monkeying around - some incredible displays of control and strength.
One of those memories, probably 1992(?) when the wall was complete door to door difficulty increasing from east to west - right to left: This young lady comes in with a fella 'spotting.' She starts at the easy holds moving very slowly and I think "she isn't going to make it very far at that rate." She proceeds to move at the same pace all the way down the hall...then back! never touching the floor - the most amazing traverse of the wall I witnessed. Most guys would be grunting and swearing at the west end - she cruised smooth...
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata / Santa Rosa, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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Thought I would bump this back up.
I just barely missed long lost friends and climbing partners Sean Leary and Cedar Wright in Yosemite, a couple of weeks ago. It seems we are often days or weeks apart at the same areas over the years.
It got me thinking again about Humboldt County, Ca climbers. We were / are an unusual bunch, and often don't even know each other. SO past or present, in Humbolt or away...
Who are you? Where are you ? and how the heck are ya?
I am traveing with my girlfriend Ruth right now while I fight a terminal case of Melanoma cancer. Still alive, still climbing.
Right now we are traveling through Ouray, Co. C-ya. Paul Humphrey.
HOW ABOUT YOU?
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Vgavinator
Social climber
Ladera Ranch, CA
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Hello Paul:
I don't know if we ever met or not.
I worked as a forester for LP out of Little River and Big Lagoon from 1975 thru 1995 and climbed regularly at Moonstone, Pat's Point, the beaches. The exit for my work was Little River Drive so I could go boulder on the way home from work. I have lived in Trinidad, Arcata and McKinleyville.
I climbed with a lot of people. My most memorable friends were Darrell Cramer and Wayne Romanchuck. My memory of Dream Theme is that Darrell dreamt it and Wayne top roped it for the first time.
On Elephant Rock Wayne (nicknamed Mouse)actually led Mouse Crack for a first. There happened to be a story about the mouse obviously. That was where Bob Albonico started climbing.
Again I climbed with a lot of different people and I can't remember a lot of names.
Thanks for the thread.
Jeff Frome
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Hey Paul
Still at the Leap but also been spending a good chunck of the winter in Shelter Cove. If you are coming on through the Tahoe area, look me up.
Petch
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