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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
David C
Trad climber
UK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2010 - 09:19am PT
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I'm off to the Nose this year and was wondering what people think of the easy-style aiders for such a route.
Thanks.
(I climb 5.10 trad and have only done SFWC, if that's relevant.)
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JC5123
Big Wall climber
Casper, WY
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Jun 18, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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I'm sure that they would work just fine. I would buy a pair early and get the sequence wired before heading up though. You need to move fast, and being on route is not the best place to try to figure it out.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Jun 18, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Combine these with a set of ez daisies and you will look like a marionette trying to figure out which buckle to release or webbing to pull. I led one aid pitch in these (my first) and wouldn't do it again! :) They are nice for the cleaner or second, though.
Kate
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jun 18, 2010 - 10:40am PT
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV3qC6SZV_M
Looks like a cluster to me. But whatever system you get wired down tight is the one to go with.
I use 2 sets of ladders that I do not connect to my dasies.
What is your current system Kate? On another note are you still sold on linkcams for piton scars?
Prod.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:11am PT
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Hi!
I use a single yates speed ladder on each daisy, as well as one set of russian aider rings. I can run up and down the ladder quickly but then hook in to the top or second ring of russian aider rings to take all the stress off my hips for longer placements. On more straightforward aid I would just use one set of yates ladders, as less time would be sent struggling in second or top steps and the rings slow you down. Its a comfort vs speed decision...I know where I stand on that!
Sorry for the hijack - Link cams are good for about everything, but they don't overlap with the black blue and green aliens, so u still need those in regular and offset sizes. Also a red yellow hybrid and yellow green hybred are nice if the scar is shallow, like a rurp crack that became an angle scar. My rack is basically a triple set of link cams, sometimes four of the little one so I don't have to be sad if I leave one for pro. I do have concerns about the thin metal at the lobe junctions, though I dont' want to get off track on the thread.
Its been a long long time since I placed a camalot or an alien bigger than green as anything other than "leave it" pro so I could save my links.
I still have my ez aiders in case I ever take up speed climbing. :)
Kate
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Dude, the easy aiders are my primary aid devices. If you have them, get some serious mileage in them before a first longish wall. There is a sequence/cluster learning curve with them, not unlike ladders, just worse.
They do serve me well, are very quick, infinitely adjustable, and as stated, serve the second best. The down side is the learning is slower than other gear, and the nose isn't a good spot to sort this kind of thing out. That said, I still use them, just did the t-trip a couple weeks ago in them, and plan to continue using them. I also am looking at Yates ladders for a reason. I seem to be in a very minority user group. I have met noone else who uses them, or has used them for very long. There may be a reason.
Some say they are confusing, too slow, clustery(can be true), not good for hard aid, etc, etc. I do not see this in my own use, but there may be a reason old aid dads (and daddettes) do not like them, I just don't know what it is. I also have worn out two sets of both the daisies and aiders, they do fuzz up pretty quickly, especially on gritty sharp rock. When they fuzz, the buckles are a little fun to release sometimes, like lowering off of a piece such as overhanging terrain or roof work. They do have very positive places in the same work too, such as roof work, due to the ability to fifi in at the right length easily and with minimal effort the first go.
Mileage in them would be your friend. Same for any system I would guess.
Just two cents worth here, I do not have the mileage many others here have.
Bob
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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I just thought of another issue you may not have considered. When I step out of aid mode to free mode, the aider is strapped to my foot. It has caused me to have a little drama a time or two, as my footprint is only toes to the forward ball of the foot, the band on the easy aider is slick as all get out on free sections. Freeing in my approach shoes is already hard enough for me, but throw in a 2.5 inch slick spot, and well, you get the idea. I try to go out of the stirrup all the way when I go free now. Suit yourself, but I have puckered enough for us both by not doing this, and I now know better.
Bob
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Bob, its cool to see somebody doing something different like leading in those things and getting it dialed. I think aid climbing is like twin speak...you spend enough time doing it you end up doing it with a language all your own, just like twins that do things nobody else gets. Good for you for doing something different and making it work!
Maybe after you try the yates you could do a comparison for us and let us know if you discover any more pros or cons with them.
Kate
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