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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
harpo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 4, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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I asked this question on rockclimibing.com, but figured I would get more expert and geographically pertinent info here.
I understand the use of quicklinks at rap anchors. What is there proper use for bailing off of sport routes (before you get to the anchors.) Accepted usuage in this context seems to depend on where your are climbing; I do most of my climibng in CA: Tahoe, the East Side, Jtree, Touloumne Meadows, and a little in the Valley. Is it accepted to leave a quicklink on the bolt at your highpoint when you are bailing on a route, or should you leave a bail biner/locker?
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Bailing on a route?????
YER GONNA DIE!!!!!111111
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Leave a carabiner or an entire quickdraw. Easy to remove.
On many routes at areas you've mentioned, you could walk around to the top in 10 minutes and drop down and clean off whatever you've left...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Use a bail-biner if it's mid-route. Quicklinks at anchors.
Using a quicklink on a lead hanger may become fixed and fuk-up the route.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I think it was quite clear over on RC.com. Are you just trolling?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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well, if you only have one rope and if you only made it up a quarter of the route, you can bail off with a sling and and use the other end of the rope to pull the sling off the hanger.
if you have two ropes, you can bail off anything half the length of the rope and still pull the sling.
however, carabiners are thoughtful gifts for the next guy.
quicklinks to bail off screw up the clip for the next guy.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Rocky Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Quick links are cheaper. I use them when I need to. I try never to leave gear but if the sh#t hits the fan you gotta do what you gotta do.
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Critter
Trad climber
State of Jefferson
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you should only bail off of 3 quickdraws, some with locking carabiners. you should also attache 2-3 cams to the bolt because you need redundancy.
the trick is just figuring out how to get all that stuff to fit into 1 hanger
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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What is this "bail"?
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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