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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 5, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
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Any one climbed at this area in the Superstitions mountains of Arizona?
I know a couple of you who have. Kinda underground. Controversial in its day due to bolting in a wilderness area. We were ground up of course. Arizona style all the way. Late 80's and on fire. I will be 50 in a year. We had a reunion of sorts a little over a year ago. Some of the best memories of my life were from that place. I live in Colorado now and I miss it.
One of the first routes put up in the area by Matt Loffdal
The classic White Rabbit
Kelly Bell on the lower three bolts of White Rabbit
Entering into the area you are presented with this route. Tone Of A bell.
A Jaybro route
Rich Shoup's Huggy Bear
One of Ward's top ten routes. From Mild To Wild
Another steep classic
Are you a Mullet or a Trout. Scary Larry leading
Hans Florine Soloing an off width after putting up a route on the backside.
Ira Hicks on Ambiance. Wonder where he's at in this world.
Doug Smith On Frigid Dare
Gordon Ogden on Typsy Gypsy
The Ogden/Fields route, Eat The Menu, on the hard to find Bovine wall
The late Kelly Bell on the first ascent of ZonerHiway
So..Have you ever done Zonerland?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Yahoo! this is one excellent post! Thanks.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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all my photos are dick bobs, I'll just let him post em.
speaking of which, no MAD photos and who is that hairy son of a bitch belaying scary larry! giekus amoung us.
rotten, got em?
from your dad?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Thanks dickbob.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
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Here you go Rick D
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yow, I'd love to get back there, I wonder how my increasingly creaky, digits would do in those pockets, these days, maybe next winter...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Wow! What a bitchen looking place!! Cheers for a great nostalgic "Climbing Thread!":)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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From looking at those photos it's hard to believe that stuff was done with trad ethics . I hope you guys will write more to this thread .
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Did Jeff Wax used to climb there in the early 80's
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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awesome
wish
had heard of about it, seen pics in the rags at one point.
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Didn't think many of you had ever climbed here. Obscure area for sure. No guide out to show the way..yet.
Chez. I don't recall a Jeff Wax.
Up the hill in an area called The Land Of Nod
The biggest tower in Nod
One of the routes on KRAS tower
One of the better routes, Just behind KRAS tower
A 10b up in Nod
The Land Of Nod. Its a beautiful place.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yup, Biotch, ground up, hooks was the style of the day. And you can't imagine the sh#t we got just doing that!
I ripped a pointy leeper through a pocket and broke a finger, cast and pins for three months, the climbing hiatus that led to parent hood!
Those were the days!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Thanx for more shots! Bump this...Sorry Jaybro about the injury but bless having the progeny!:)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Looks an awful lot like the rock at Deadman's. Is it similar rock? Sweet post, thanks.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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That's what I thought as well Jan...That killer, "Welded Tuff!":)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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believe me, Mike, twenty years later and it worked out A-okay!
Left Pinky, Btw, isn't that the same one you, uh damaged?
It climbs a lot like deadman's in spots, but is more variable.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah Jay...But I got the worse I think...Peace, MP.:) Yeah it does look more varied...I remember Deadman's having places where the pockets were all small at times and I can see steeper stretches here with more features...:)
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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We climbed in Zonerland/Land of Nod a couple of times in the mid-90s or so--wonderful area, as those pix make clear. The walk-in was just enough to keep the riff-raff away, and the climbs were mostly short but enjoyable and "action-packed". I know that new routeing in the area was shut down around that time because of conservation concerns but I presume that the area remains open for climbing unless the bolts were removed (though they might be ageing a bit now anyway).Queen Creek/Oak Flat seems to have absorbed most of the action since then, though I personally preferred the climbing and the ambiance in the Supes. Do folks still get up there?
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teamwhipper
climber
Bay Area, CA
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I'd agree with Al that the climbing in Zonerland always seemed better than the routes at the Pond or in Queen Creek. I spent time there on two trips, maybe in 1990 and again in 1991. While I don't remember many of the routes we put up, I do remember seeing some youngish guy from Phoenix climbing shirtless accidently rip out his nipple ring against the rough rock. Much blood, much pain, and much whimpering on his part. Can't quite remember, but I think he did it falling and scraping his chest on the very short 11d arete just right of Red Headed Rockpecker.
I was later told that Lynn Hill said Shredlocks in a Babylon (an 11c I put up in the Land of Nod) was her favorite route in Arizona. Given how many great routes there are in that fine state, that can't have been true. I thought Jim Waugh's routes to the east of Zonerland were pretty fun. Can't remember the names of that area, but the Minotaur might have been one of the routes. Good times.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Rick D,
While scrolling the post I spent a little more time than the rest on that photo with Scary Larry. Maybe because I haven't seen him in over a decade. I also was trying to place the belayer and couldn't.
But you tagged it........Jeff Giek?
It wouldn't have kept me up at night but thanks for that. Now....who's sitting on the rock watching?
~Susan
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