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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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I'm really not trying to distill our experience here, but I'd love any local opinions on what its going to be like up there this weekend.
We plan on skinning into Crystal lake Friday, setting up basecamp, and skiing some nearby pow that may come down in this little system.
We really want to climb the North Ridge of Crystal Crag on Saturday, so we're lugging in a trad rack, harnesses, sticky shoes, etc... but its gonna be COOOOOOLLLLD. Like NOAA says hi of 29/31ish all weekend at nine thou.
Question for any locals or anybody else.
Whats it like trad climbing all day if those temps stay in the 30s if its sunny?
Is there anything worthwhile to climb for the day, alpine style up around the crest. Like a coulior with some steeper rock/class III.
We want to have an objective each day. What's it like going up to the Ships Prow? Reasonable from a camp at Crystal Lake.
And...while I'm being a beta hog, what's the avy danger like back there lately. We've got Avy1/Avy2 experience but local knowledge is key. Any areas to avoid in general up there that have a reputation for sliding? The Jaws cornice looks nasty obviously. Any intel of where to ski or where not to would be super cool.
If its just too wintry we may just go to Joshua Tree for a few days so its win win I suppose.
Thanks.
Scott
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Apr 27, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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Did the North Face of Crystal Crag last September -
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/952158/TR-The-Moose-and-Llama-do-Crystal-Crag
It was kinda chilly for me, windy & temps in the 50's. There is a pic in there of some ankle warmers I made from old wool socks.
Did Casaval Ridge on Shasta last weekend. Cold & windy, temps in the 20's. No frickin' way would I be rock climbing with bare hands & rock shoes in that kind of weather.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 27, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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ice gear instead with those temps?
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Apr 27, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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YER......
GONNA.......
DIEEEE!!!!!!!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Apr 27, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Yep, what he said.
Make peace with your maker 'cause...
yer gonna die!
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PeteC
climber
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Apr 27, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
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Don't plan on tons of pow cause it's not happnin'...raining right now. Crystal Crag is a really fun craggin area and picutureque moderate but not really worth getting the chop on because the loose quartz choss is covered with ice.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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hmmm...good point pete. I've done it in summer and thought it would be fun in Winter, but I wasn't really thinking about how nasty those crumbly upper pitches could be.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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gettin yer gear ripped off is one thing...
but this?
forgetting the concept of climbing at 32 degrees,
old crust, 10" new, + rain
does the phrase slab avalanche come to mind?
edit
the better, one word answer: yes
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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mmmmmyeah....been watching the forecast and talking to folks on the east side. Looking a tad grim for this kinda mission. Maybe we'll just go to Cabo.
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