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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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So what can you guys tell me?
I have the little roper green book but is there anything more current?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 18, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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YER GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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duh, but what about this old route? no info for me?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:05am PT
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Always been curious about it, but, in 30 years here, never heard of anyone doing it
Peace
Karl
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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I can't believe there's nothing in this forum already about it. I thought you guys were like the Valley know-it-alls....
this can't be that obscure, can it? It was one of the 1st routes in the Valley...
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Is it in Ropers green guide? I loaned my copy out years ago and never got it back, I have to borrow Shack's for ol' betta.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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it sure is...I 1st read about it in Ropers Camp 4, then saw it in the green guide...
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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Did you mean Sierra Point SE Farce?
That is the only route over there I have ever heard of. And... I could find no reference to it in Roper's C4 book.
IF you are refering to the SE Farce then one line in Roper Green is telling...
Few pitons are necessary on the route since many trees offer protection.
Clint has that route listed (along with Fistibule)
1788. Sierra Point - Southeast Farce 5.6, Ro
1789. Fistibule 5.11c, below Sierra Point railing
Coiler/Ed Hartouni... where is this on the obscurity rating scale?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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Wait...
It was one of the 1st routes in the Valley...
Are we talking about a CLIMBING route on Sierra Point or something else?
Sierra Point SE Farce was done in 1966.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
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Yup, I may be talking about the farce, I don't have the green book in front of me...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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I have it as a "Roper Obscurity" which is defined as a route that is in Roper, but not in any subsequent guide book.
Dude, you don't ask on the web about obscure climbs, you just go and do them (or try to... I'll post my weekend attempt after the film is developed...).
It is unlikely that anyone who posts here has done it, very likely that they haven't even heard of it, and of the lurking obscuristas, they will not fess up... it is the pleasure of doing a thing which draws many to the obscure list, not the talking about it.
Go and enjoy...
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Good point...
Maybe the taco should delete this thread so I won't have to wait in line behind noobs...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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I thought you guys were like the Valley know-it-alls.... That doesn't necessarily mean that we actually know anything useful.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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Fistibule 5.11c, below Sierra Point railing
Me and Shipley first ascent.
Sierra Point is piss easy to get to .....
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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Jeff Schaffer (one of the FA party) was at Berkeley when I was a student there, but I never got much info about the route (mainly because I never asked . . .) If you're thinking of doing that, add to your adventure by following the arete above Sierra Point all the way to the summit of Grizzly Peak. It's 4th class (in the old-fashioned sense) from Sierra Point, but the route-finding is wild and very non-trivial, and the route definitely adventurous.
John
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
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Already attempted it JEleazarian, thanks for the suggestion, we're bringing a rope next time, that old school class 4 is not class 4...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
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The last one I was on was the 5.5 SW Arete, several decades ago, so I have nothing useful, except to say what Squishy said, but more emphatically -- old school any rating is harder than current ratings (at least for free climbs; aid might be the opposite).
John
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Gene
Social climber
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Apr 19, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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So true, John, so true. I remember the LB 5.5 and 5.6 routes to be fun, but stout for the rating. I really should try the Roper-rated 5.3 route up the big corner between Lower and Middle Bros. Has anyone ever been over there? John, wanna come along? Ed?
g
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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in Roper, the definition of Class 4:
"A rope is necessary for belaying; pitons are desirable for anchoring the belay. A leader-fall on class 4 would be serious, but the climbing is not really difficult and the experienced leader will not use pitons for protection."
Sounds pretty clear to me.
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