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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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I will be in Yosemite for nearly 2 weeks in mid-May for the Frank Sacherer rememberance, and some climbing. I have managed to avoid climbing OW cracks most of my climbing career, but figure it is "never too late" to add some of these climbs to my repertoire. I'd like some suggestions for some good introductory OW cracks that could be done on a top rope to gain some painsome...er..experience. I have always had some aspirations to some routes that contain either OW cracks, chimneys, or squeeze chimneys.
I'm open to suggestions!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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When you get to the valley, ask young Will, he will have the latest version.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Generator Crack, Chingando, Ahab for a start.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
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Hahahahahahaha!
I've been to the Valley B4!!! I definitely recognise a "sandbag" list when I see it!! Esp. Ahab, which I had described to me by Patrick Oliver about 40 years ago! Pratt described Chingadno to me in Camp 4 on my 1965 visit.
I am serious about this question. I'm looking for some 5.8-5.9 stuff.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mental block.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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In 73 with an upper belay Chingando nearly made me puke,
I thought WTF was that
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Cleft (5.9) is good Warbler, an I'm the sandbagger?
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Excalibur Lots of wide cracks on that route to keep you busy :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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Trial by Fire 5.8
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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1st two pitches of Enigma, Down by the Cookie.
5.7 & 5.8.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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People who seek out the OW are distorted. They are not 'normal'. They are not criminal or to be feared. They are harmless 'weirdos'......
But they do have certain skilz....
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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Bluering-
I am basically an Eldo climber. Steep open faces were always my thing, altho' I did the Grand Giraffe and Ruper....Bastille Crack. However the Valley is NOT Eldo, so "when in Rome"......
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Apr 10, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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You funny man Donini. What is good training for what you mention? And Jaybro. Isn't Mental Block a 3 pitch .10c OW? I have been below it and it looked both awesome and intimidating at the same time. You would definitaly need a bigger than 'standard' rack.
I can vouch for Sacherer Cracker. Excellent. I would like to check out Anathema and The Cleft too.
I might have done Trial By Fire. Sounds very familiar. Will have to check my notes.
I think what makes the OW size hard in the Valley is the slick rock and vertical nature. You can't 'cheat'.
I can recall several OW size cracks in JTree that were easy because of good friction and less than vertical angle.
If you ever climb in the Owens Gorge do Flailsafe. Awesome trad line. 1st pitch is a wide vertical crack w/ some 'cheater' holds. Also Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall in the Dihedrals, the bolted 5.10b OW up high at Flavin' Havin, and the long bolted widish crack at Gorgeous Towers are great practice for the OW technique.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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That's what it's rated, M-dog but the offwidth is 5.9 at best, if you don't believe me as the animal nickname guy.
also I wanna see how you "cheat" on Throbbing Gristle in Josh.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 10, 2010 - 10:59am PT
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My list is predicated on the ability to set up top ropes as requested. With a top tope, difficulty is less of a factor- the climbs are mid-range difficulty for wide cracks, a good place to develop technique.
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Apr 10, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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Jaybro, I believe you. Never tried Throbbing Gristle. As a matter of fact I've never done an OW that required stacking. Just your standard armbar and chickenwing. Does that count? What about Pratt's Crack 5.9 in Pine Creek Canyon? It takes wide pro but its nowhere near as hard as Ahab, Generator, etc.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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Pratt's is a good one, historic, too.
Throbbing Gristle is straight forward, classic armbars.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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Pharoah's 5.8 except it might be too early in the season as it is a north facing climb on the south side of the valley. It was a popular offwidth starter climb bitd.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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How come nobody ever mentions the Right Side of Absolutely Free?
Vendetta, that's a good, easy-to-protect OW. Great.
Tunnel through on Reed's Direct, then lower down the Left Side on a long rope (or is that blasphemy?). Then gain the top of Reed's and TR the last pitch of Reed's Direct (wear gray clothes). On the way, you can do the 5.9 OW on the last pitch of the Direct.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 10, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Wonder why Russ hasn't chimed in on this one?...Must be outta town, so shameless plug...
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