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Lionheart
Trad climber
Brier, Wa.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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The myths, legends, pioneers, friends (etc.) of the 1960's climbing scene wanted here. Group photos with full names (yes, surnames too) from the Eight-Mile Campground and Bridge Creek Boulder cults. Memories, lies and contact info.
Don Leonard
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 25, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
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Hi Don,
I didn't get to Leavenworth until the early 80's first time.
Great place, but I can't help with the 60's guys.
Good luck!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 25, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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My Mom was good friends with Gretchen Daiber, daughter of Ome Diaber BITD, but I was too young to see anything but how pretty Gretchen was. ;P
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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Mr Lionheart,
You talkin' ta me? Huh?
I thought I scared ya off for gud! So, ya want more? :-D
Yeah, you've already been immortalized here, lol.
ps
I expect Sir Mastadon will rear his shaggy head here shortly.
MazamaRick should check in too. Nobody else bothers that I know of.
pps
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1075402&msg=1089932#msg1089932
pps
You'll get yur lies, for sure!
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
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many passes through leavenworth starting in '74. got to rally with timson and brugger, stutzman, plumb, and even drug donini out
for a romp up ROTC on midnight. how's that for spray?
had a hippie homesteader buddy up the chumstick (hey it's valley, shees) whose junkyard housed my vanload of toys for years. each spring and fall i spent two-three, six-eight weeks based at his digs there, dirt biking, logging, milling, haying, pruning, building, brewing, wrenching, planting, pickin' and grinnin'. i feel like i got raised in the 1930's by a guy one year my junior.
i guess two seasons only counts for an associate degree in fruit tramp, but arriving in wenatchee by boxcar assures the proper patina. street polka in amongst der dirndil schnockers, worth cleaning up for
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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I didn't get to L'worth till the spring of '78 and, hell, even the Trigger Finger was gone by then.
Ha, you're such a baby. I was there at least three years before you, and climbed on the Trigger Finger.
But, like you, I was just an occasional visitor, not a local. So can't help much with connections to the 60s crew. However...
got to rally with timson and brugger, stutzman, plumb, and even drug donini out
However, I can vouch for the fact that at least a couple of those folks are still at it. Pat Timson is a regular at the local gym, and I assume he's still active outdoors. And we see Julie Brugger regularly, both at the gym and on the rock. The others I don't know, 'cept for Donini, by reputation. And I don't think he climbs here much these days.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Not on your list either in this thread or the Squamish one, but Don McPherson might be known to you. He is up in Vancouver and only lately retired from a fairly active trail-building program.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:29am PT
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Donini was late to the party. Too bad he
wasted his time at those wannabe areas.
Timson: "Where's that Mastadon with my clean pants?"
(Those are Julies' shoes next to Pats')
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:11am PT
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When did the Trigger Finger come down ? I have a pic of my father on top, probably from the early 1970's.
He had an old Fred Beckey guidebook with Damnation and Angel Cracks rated 5.7 (?)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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Trigger Finger collapsed in the winter of 1978-79.
The Beckey/Bjørnstad 1965 orange-cover guidebook to Leavenworth, which may have been the first, rates Damnation and Angel Crack as 5.8.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:20am PT
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The Beckey/Bjørnstad 1965 orange-cover guidebook to Leavenworth, which may have been the first, rates Damnation and Angel Crack as 5.8.
They're not 5.8?
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:29am PT
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Thanks, Anders. I guess it was 5.8.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:39am PT
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Aw hell, I didn't get to L'worth till the spring of the 21st century. and I have only climbed there about a half dozen times but I did meet Don Claunch Gordon recently. Does he qualify? He still lives here in Seattle . What do you want to know?
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful BC
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Feb 26, 2010 - 02:57am PT
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My very first climbing road trip was to Leavenworth in '78. Roller Coaster ... a sweet 5.8 Leavenworth chimney to remember
The whole place was a "trip" ...
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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There used to be some good fishing in the area...
I felt right away that the place had a good vibe. Quaint little town nearby, nice campgrounds, access to higher peaks, nice water, good fruit in season, nice granite and even some funky sandstone nearby for a distraction. How can you go wrong. Even in the heat of summer, you can find some shade.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Feb 26, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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Did someone mention Leavenworth?? Had a few adventures there.....
Damnation Crack, 1971
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Started climbing in Leavenworth in 1975 when I was 15. Man it was a different place back then crashing at the base of Classic Crack with a bonfire, climbing it over and over. Also was when I made my first trip into the Enchantments and peak bagged for a week and all I could think about on the way out is getting a ice cold grape crush soda.
err, hate to admit it but perhaps me and my friends were somewhat responsible for Trigger Finger falling over. We were out climbing at the Pinnacles and decided it would be cool to see how many people we could get on the "summit". I think we had about 10 guys hanging off those old bolt hangers, oh the joy of being stupid teenagers. Then rapped off. A couple days later it fell over. Holy Shikees!!!
We said our prayers of thanks that night, and learned a valuable lesson about the instability of rock without getting killed by it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
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My very first climbing road trip was to Leavenworth in '78
Same here, but a few years earlier. One enduring memory of that trip was catching a 30-foot factor-1 winger. Hip belay, but no problem. When I untangled my head from my partner's feet and looked up, there was blood all over one section of the rock. We both panicked for a moment until we realized that Paul wasn't in pain and didn't appear to be bleeding. He was wearing knickers with long wool socks. Red wool socks. And a bunch of fuzz had scraped off one of his socks where it grazed the rock.
But the big deal was that it gave this noob faith that the protection system actually worked.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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I heard that Trigger Finger fell over because it had been used as a scratching post by ferocious bloodthirsty giant Canadian wolves™.
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Chief
climber
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Feb 26, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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Didn't get to Leavenworth till 76.
It was a Canadian spring ritual, so many great memories.
Starlit nights and cool clear mornings at the Icicle Creek campground.
Pastries at Das Bakery und pints und pizza at Gustav's.
Pat and Julie were kind of like royalty, LeDuc a comedian and monster free climber. Donini would check up on us now and then, "Good job Perry, you're almost at the hard part!" The late John Stoddard was one of the few Washington regulars up to Squamish back then. RIP John.
Looking forward to photos.
Edit; I have been picking with Rob Newsom every year at Wintergrass.
He's become an accomplished winemaker (vinter?) and a not bad guitar player.
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