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gonzo chemist
climber
a crucible
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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Most of my climbing experience is from my time here in California; but some the most fun, scary, or inspired climbing days I've ever had have been in the Splatte on the Sheep's Nose, Bucksnort Slab, Sunshine Wall, Parachute Rock, Turkey Rocks, Squat Rock, or in Eleven Mile Canyon. Hell, some of the first slab climbing I've ever done was on The Dome. Generally awesome granite, and cracks and slabs-galore makes (in my opinion) the Platte one of the best under-the-radar climbing destinations in the U.S.
and there's got to be TONS of f.a. potential still there!
A couple of random photos from a few years ago...
The Dome
Sheep's Nose
leading Kirk's Corner on Squat Rock (before the closure)
buttshot of me on the 1st pitch of Lost in Space, Sheep's Nose. We ended up getting lost and wandering all over the damn formation, having no real idea where the climb goes. Got caught in a nice hail storm too...that was real fun.
Classic Dihedral
my buddy Mike Murphy on Higher Education on Squat Rock.
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taorock
Trad climber
Okanogan, WA
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Feb 11, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
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Two thumbs up. Nice mellow camping at Turkey Rocks too.
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bob
climber
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Feb 11, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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I have no pics, but during the 90's when I was a raft guide we'd hit that place until the water got high then we'd hit it again for a month when the water went low and usually sneak off in between. Man I did some sh#t there that I would not do today....I think. Some of the best times all around I've had. The whole experience. We'd wonder around sometimes never finding what we set out for and it was never bad. Almost died of a lightning strike, but that's not the only place. So many splitters, slabs, mix, etc plus all the countryside!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow.
How about that Whimsical Dreams!!!! Sheet everything at Turkey Rocks!
Bob J.
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Feb 11, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
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Right on Gonzo! Thanks for dishin' out some love to the Platte! Been my home stomping grounds for darn near 20 years or so now... Never a dull moment!
Heading up to the Cathedrals to do Center Route early Saturday morning. Good stuff! A "must do" for anyone in the neighborhood.
Tom
Good shot of Cynical Pinnacle:
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Feb 11, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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Love Turkey Rocks! I'm on the East Coast and climbed there a few times with Jimmy Dunn. Really liked Drumstick Direct.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 11, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Definitely a cool place. I did Childhood's End on Big Rock Candy Mtn. last year. 9 pitches of interesting face climbing with a tough crux area I ended up yarding thru on.
A view of the "60's Girl"
Looking down the 5.10d pitch up high on Childhood's End.
Turkey Rocks were nice too.
I found the rock a bit grainy on the Big Rock formation but I'd go back for sure.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 11, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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Nah, these guys got it all wrong.
It's all choss. . .stay home, the trips not worth it. . .
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Feb 11, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
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the platte is the only thing rad in "colo-not-so-rad-o"!
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Andy D
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 11, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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At least its not in Cali-phony-a
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 11, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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Yeah- good thing it's not in Cali or it would never be bothered with. The choss lovers in the Rockies seem to like it but those who climb on real rock know better.
Andy D- too bad you have not been around to see what real quality stone is all about. Keep on chossing off.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Feb 16, 2010 - 10:51am PT
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Never been there, but I can appreciate the place with these pics...
good stuff
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Feb 16, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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Bump for a magical area of the American west, and for more pictures.
11-mile is heaven for beginners.
Lost in Space was one of my favs in the S Platte.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 16, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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OK...I'll bite.
Early ascent of Seamis (11b/c) back 1979.
FA of Psycho Babble 12b 1981
Pete Steres On Childhood End
FA of Doctor Dream 12c 1982 Rampart Range
5.10 crack...11 Mile Canyon
A very early ascent of Childhood End
FA of the Arms Race 5.12a/b 11 Mile Canyon
Dale Goddard on some crack
Richard Aschert drilling a new 12b we did on Tick Dome
Bouldering at Ute Pass
Mueller State Park
Mueller State Park
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Feb 16, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
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I wasn't aware of the closures in the Splatte! It's been years since I climbed there. I have really great memories of Topographical Oceans on Dome Rock. Climbed it in 1984 with Gary Molzan and Anne Carrier. Thought that the final crux was one of the most foot-painful pitches ever. About 60 feet of very tiny crystals, thin edges, and a few smears. It was originally called 5.11a, but it was then downgraded to 10b (?) I seem to recall. Anybody done it recently?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Feb 17, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
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Classic Dihedral is another fine route. We were bombarded by some a**hole throwing bags of garbage from the top, and nearly wiped Gary off the rock.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 17, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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Hiking into what we called Secret Valley last fall.....Deep in the South Platte
We wonder if these formations have been climbed as we hiked past
Our destination, 3.5 hours in.......we called it Secret
Crack
Yea the South Platte. We saw not a single other climber that long day...
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