MOUNTAIN-CLIMBING ON THE 1931 OUTING By Glen Dawson

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wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 26, 2009 - 02:50am PT
http://www.thehighsierra.org/high_trip_1931.htm
Unbelievable. I would paste the article here, but it was done in such a beautiful artistic style that I must just post the link.
You will not be disappointed.
Jules Eichorn, Minarets...


"The members of our party were Francis Farquhar, Walter Brem, Marjory Bridge, Jules Eichorn, Alfred Weiler, Glen Dawson." -Unicorn Peak


Brem and Eichorn on Michael Minaret:

wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 03:52am PT
aaaaannnnnnndd...
The Birth of Modern Climbing in the High Sierra
http://www.thehighsierra.org/mountaineering_summer_1931.htm
Norman Clyde:
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 26, 2009 - 04:39am PT
hey there wildone... say, very much appreciated here...
thanks so much! :)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 26, 2009 - 04:43am PT
hey there say, WOW... after the pics downloaded and after i got to check out the link... this is even way-more super! say, thanks so much...

god bless :)
stonefly

Social climber
Alameda, California
Dec 27, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
Good to see folks are enjoying this. It's a work in progress and every so often I get some time to add more. Just added Glen's story of the loss of Pete Starr from the 1934 Bulletin:
http://www.thehighsierra.org/PDFs/The%20Search%20for%20Walter%20Starr.pdf
Lots more material from Lewis Clark, my favorite so far, this shot of 12 year old Muir Dawson looking down Matterhorn Canyon on the 1934 High Trip.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 27, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
Is Glen still around?

He emailed me about 5 years ago. Remarkable fellow. Quit climbing in his thirties and went on to other things, but what impressive accomplishments he made!

Farquhar was no slouch either!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 27, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
Glen's not only around, he's fully sharp at 96. (Only the photo is fuzzy.) In July Steve Grossman and I spent two days interviewing him at his home in Pasadena. We got 5-6 hours of tape, running through his career as an antiquarian bookseller and all his major climbs in the Sierra.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 27, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
I hope that I am that sharp in my 90's. It helps that he spent his life as a writer and seller of books as part of the family business. Dawson books was started by his father and is still ongoing.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
Legendary Dawson Bump!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
nice to see glen "still around". he gave quite a slide show to the SCMA, i hate to say about a dozen years ago. i remember his tales of taking ansel adams up many places in the high sierra. he also gave some treatment of his long career as a bookseller, a noble and, i'm happy to say, still not lost profession, despite the monsters in that industry.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
thank you - wow - gets my vote for best thread.
I think of Glen Dawson every time I'm at Stoney Point - and that's a lot.
NORMAN CLYDE- is what being a man is all about.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
i checked a couple links on this thread, leading to the alleged summit register notebook from temple crag. the first entries in this, spanning from the supposed USGS survey team of 1909 on to ascents in the early 30s, are all obviously in the same handwriting. some sort of retro-history effort? come on now!

http://picasaweb.google.com/sierradaze/OriginalSummitRegisterFromTempleCrag#
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
Cole Gibson's photo of Glen and his big brother Muir at Stoney



There are also remarkable photos of Glen in his youth but they are on my HD back in SF so they will have to wait till next week.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 25, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
are all obviously in the same handwriting. some sort of retro-history effort? come on now!

What if Morgan Leonard placed the original, or a replacement register in 1932 and just back-filled it?

You'd have to see it in it's original binding for that to be conclusive.

Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
yea, i was going to suggest leonard, who had the last entry before the handwriting changed, and who had a previous ascent.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Dec 26, 2010 - 01:12am PT
that picture at Stoney Point is very similar to a drawing in an old European book about alpine climbing that i read back in Idaho in the 50s. the book called this technique 'la courte echelle' if i recall correctly. i wonder if they didn't see the same drawing and decide to try it out. i no longer have any idea of the book title or author.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 27, 2010 - 11:13am PT
bump
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Dec 27, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
Reported on the PCT_L listserver a few days ago
--------------------------


Yes, once again your PCT hero, Switchback, has cheated death. This time
on a visit/lunch with Sierra pioneer, Glen Dawson, at his Pasadena
retirement home. Meadow Ed and I braved the traffic and rain soaked SoCal to have
lunch with this historic mountaineer and contemporary of John Muir. Glen
was born in 1912 and John Muir died in 1914. His deceased younger brother
was named Muir Dawson. Glen was given an honorary Life Membership in the
Sierra Club in 1921. The certificate was signed by Sierra Club president
William Colby. Mr. Colby was secretary to John Muir when he was the first
president of the Sierra Club. Glen was on the Norman Clyde expedition for
the first ascent of Mt. Whitney's east face in the early 1930's. Norman
Clyde made more first ascents in the Sierras than any other person. Several
year's ago Glen was given an honorary doctorate.

His retirement home is a place Ed and I want to live at if I have to move
into a something like that. What a nice place. There are 23 different ice
cream flavors you can have at lunch and supper for dessert, plus lots of
other things. All the food was first rate. Just the way Ed and I like it,
plus we were the kids there. The trouble was that a lot of the folks there
seem to be doing better than us. Glen is very alert and likes to recall
the post pioneer days in the Sierras. This was his generation. He made an
ascent with others of the last unclimbed 14,000 foot mountain in CA, plus
other first ascents.

For Meadow Ed, I had Glen sign a large two picture sheet of Mt. Whitney's
east face and the historic black/white picture of the first ascent group at
the top after their historic climb. Mine from last year's visit is framed
and hanging in my den at home. What a neat thing to have. After lunch I
took Ed down to the Long Beach dock for the trip over to Santa Catalina
Island. He was going there for Christmas. A very enjoyable holiday visit
with Glen and Ed.

Faithfully recorded and accurately reported, your obedient servant --

Switchback the Trail Pirate
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Dec 27, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
BUMP!
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 27, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
Glen is amazing .....

While working on "Stoney Point".... Cole, Matt, BoulderKitty and I had a wonderful day hanging out with one of the truly great climbers of all time.

Catching up on 100, he is sharper than I am, about the dates and people in the stories - legends - he tells.

He has a computer and uses it.... I wish he would Taco.

What struck me the most about Glen is how fit he is.... runs around, up and down stairs.

And all the women are HOT for him.





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